OK Here's my problem and i kind of has my scratching my head over. The other day i was driving and I turned of my heater, 5 minutes later i realized the heater never kicked on so im thinking something with the blowmotor isnt right. Well just at that time I'm going to make a left hand turn and realize now that my turn signals aren't working. So I pulled in a Wawa parking lot and checked the manual to see if a fuse controled both of them and it doesn't. A couple minutes later driving back to my house I go to use my signal and what do you know, it starts working as is the heater now. Today I start the car up, same problem. So I pull into a gas station, shut it off for a minute then start it back up and what do you know both are working again. A couple hours later same exact thing happens. Now I'm curious as to if any one of you has had the same problem or might might be able to give me a real quick solution, cuz unfourtnatly I don't have alot of time to play around with it and it is my only car.
Heater & Turn Signal Problems
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OL' WHITEY
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I had the same problem with my '93 GT. Try jiggling your key in the ignition lock on the column. The heater and turn signals will start working again. The problem is a worn ignition lock. It's a cheap and easy fix. The part is around $10.00 at the dealership. 
93 LX
Founding Member
bmorrisj
Member
same thing happened to my 86 and the radio, after i started the car i would have to nudge the key foward a bit so the radio would turn on...
OL' WHITEY
New Member
Come to think of it, when I changed out the lock, the ignition switch just kinda came apart. It's two pieces that are crimped together. There's a brass slide in there and a ball bearing that moves as your key turns and makes the necessary connections. I crammed the two pieces back together and rebent the crimps with some channel locks, replaced the ignition lock and no more problems.
BADPONYsc
Founding Member
Ignition switch. $6 at AutoZone, or $11 at Ford dealership. I had the SAME problem on my 90' GT and tried troubleshooting all kinds of things. When I finally went to change the ignition switch, it fell apart all over the floor and there were burned/melted places all over the pieces. (remember... this is the part that Ford recalled for failure/fire) Changed it out and never had the problem again. I bought the AutoZone one first, then heard alot of people saying they didn't last long, so I got a Ford one at the dealership.... just for peice of mind.
Mine did the same as yours though... no turn signals, no blower, and no reverse lights (next time yours does it, check them too), although the hazards DID work. It was very confusing. The ignition switch is very cheap and very easy to change and will provide much relief from the added stress!
Good luck with it!
Mine did the same as yours though... no turn signals, no blower, and no reverse lights (next time yours does it, check them too), although the hazards DID work. It was very confusing. The ignition switch is very cheap and very easy to change and will provide much relief from the added stress!
Good luck with it!
ignition sw
Just wondering if a ignition switch going bad/worn could cause poor voltage and amp flow throughout the car as well. I think I had mine replace by ford years ago, but I am sure they did not waste to much money on a good upgrade at that time as well.
BADPONYsc said:Ignition switch. $6 at AutoZone, or $11 at Ford dealership. I had the SAME problem on my 90' GT and tried troubleshooting all kinds of things. When I finally went to change the ignition switch, it fell apart all over the floor and there were burned/melted places all over the pieces. (remember... this is the part that Ford recalled for failure/fire) Changed it out and never had the problem again. I bought the AutoZone one first, then heard alot of people saying they didn't last long, so I got a Ford one at the dealership.... just for peice of mind.
Mine did the same as yours though... no turn signals, no blower, and no reverse lights (next time yours does it, check them too), although the hazards DID work. It was very confusing. The ignition switch is very cheap and very easy to change and will provide much relief from the added stress!
Good luck with it!
Just wondering if a ignition switch going bad/worn could cause poor voltage and amp flow throughout the car as well. I think I had mine replace by ford years ago, but I am sure they did not waste to much money on a good upgrade at that time as well.
warlockpain
Founding Member
ignition switch!! had the same prob on my 91 coupe.oh and you'll need a t27 tamperproof torx bit to get it off(located on middle part of column under knee blocker)
BADPONYsc
Founding Member
ksgullion said:
I don't remember seeing a better charge from the switch replacement. I used to have bad charging, especially at night with accessories on. A 130a alternator pretty much took car of that, except at idle at night with all the lights on, heat, stereo, etc. I have underdrive pullies though, which can't be helping.
warlockpain said:
Exactly! Get that BEFORE you start the job. it's a bummer to get started and then realize you don't have a tool you need and the car won't drive anywhere. I don't know why Ford used that kind of bolt to mount the switch, but I got a set of different sized ones from the auto store.... when I got a RIDE back up to the store.
They look like regular torx bolt, but with a little "nipple" in the hole that won't allow a regular torx bit to fit in it.
My car was disabled because my ignition switch fell apart on the floor before I ever discovered the tamperproof bolts. So at that point, the car wasn't going anywhere.... much less up to the auto store.
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