Heavy Vibration @ 3-3500 After Changing Oil Pump

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by Drew89Fox, Jun 14, 2013.


  1. Drew89Fox

    Drew89Fox New Member

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    First off, new here so HI!
    Secondly, I have recently (past 6 months) become the proud owner of an '89 LX that I thought was stock, boy was I wrong. Come to find out she has a HC stroker... neways long story short:

    Oil pressure wasn't reading at all - this is all out of no where BTW I had taken her down the track a few time a couple of months ago. Daily driver as well.

    Had an aquataince look at it he suggusted the oil pump - after about 10 hours on and off my wife and I finally got the oil pump swapped out for a new one. Side note old pump was apparently an HV and the new one is just a regular oil pump. I had originally purchased a HV but when we went to install the oil pan it wouldn't fit :/ I have no idea.

    Now after replacing the oil pump and cleaning out the pick-up - took her on a test run: low oil pressure 10 idle & 40 driving. Before I was getting 15-25 idle and 55-60 driving. Now I am also getting really bad vibrations at about 3000-3500 rpms.

    Any Ideas???????
    #1
  2. elarm1

    elarm1 Active Member

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    Oh that doesn't sound good, sounds like when I split my block... It may be time to tear her down
    #2
  3. srtthis

    srtthis the guy doing it does every local racers rear end

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    did you prime the pump?
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  4. 7991LXnSHO

    7991LXnSHO Active Member

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    I would not worry about the oil pressure if you have many miles on it, but the vibration sounds curious. I had a mix up of balances and the motor shook about like theat. CHEAP answers first - I'd be looking into the possibility of misfiring. Download the computer codes and do a computer cylinder balance test. Then also do a mist of water spray from a squirt bottle in the (almost) dark to see if you can get a spark outside the cables to show. A fouled plug or a bad wire would be the cheapest and easiest answers.
    #4
  5. jrichker

    jrichker StangNet's favorite TOOL SN Certified Technician Founding Member

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    If you had no vibration problems prior to now, closely examine the harmonic balancer to make sure it hasn't begun to spin. The rubber ring that secures the outer ring to the hub deteriorates and allows the outer ring to move. That throws off the balance and causes vibrations. Stock Ford harmonic balancers come in two variations, 28 oz. and 50 oz. If your engine was assembled with the wrong balancer you will have vibration problems.

    Stroker cranks may be 28 oz., 50 oz., or even 0 oz., imbalance, so it can be even more confusing. Many of aftermarket balancers have bolt on weights to accommodate the three possibilities.



    Cylinder balance test: use this to find dead or weak cylinders:

    Revised 25 March 2012 to add necessity allowing the KOEO tests to finish before starting the engine and the need for a properly functioning IAB/IAC to run the cylinder balance test.

    The computer has a cylinder balance test that helps locate cylinders with low power output. You’ll need to dump the codes out of the computer and make sure that you have the A/C off, clutch depressed to the floor and the transmission in neutral. Fail to do this and you can’t do the engine running dump codes test that allows you to do the cylinder balance test.

    Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

    Be sure to turn off the A/C clutch depressed to the floor, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.


    Here's how to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

    [​IMG]

    The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

    89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

    [​IMG]

    The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


    WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

    What to expect:
    You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems. This is crucial: the same wire that provides the ground to dump the codes provides signal ground for the TPS, EGR, ACT and Map/Baro sensors. If it fails, you will have poor performance, economy and drivability problems

    Some codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

    Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off, clutch depressed to the floor and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.

    Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

    Cylinder balance test

    If you have idle or IAC/IAB problems and the engine will not idle on its own without mechanically adjusting the base idle speed above 625-750 RPM, this test will fail with random cylinders pointed out every time it runs. The IAC/IAB must be capable of controlling the engine speed to run in the 1400-1600 RPM range. Playing with the base idle speed by adjusting it upwards will not work, the computer has to be able to control the engine speed using the IAC/IAB.

    Warm the car's engine up to normal operating temperature. Use a jumper wire or paper clip to put the computer into test mode. Let it finish the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) code dump. Start the engine and let it go through the normal diagnostic tests, then quickly press the throttle to the floor. Remember to keep the clutch pedal (5 speed) depressed to the floor during the test. The engine RPM should exceed 2500 RPM's for a brief second. The engine RPM's will increase to about 1450-1600 RPM and hold steady. The engine will shut off power to each injector, one at a time. When it has sequenced through all 8 injectors, it will flash 9 for everything OK, or the number of the failing cylinder such as 2 for cylinder #2. Quickly pressing the throttle again up to 2500 RPM’s will cause the test to re-run with smaller qualifying figures.
    Do it a third time, and if the same cylinder shows up, the cylinder is weak and isn’t putting out power like it should. See the Chilton’s Shop manual for the complete test procedure


    Do a compression test on all the cylinders.
    Take special note of any cylinder that shows up as weak in the cylinder balance test. Low compression on one of these cylinders rules out the injectors as being the most likely cause of the problem. Look at cylinders that fail the cylinder balance test but have good compression. These cylinders either have a bad injector, bad spark plug or spark plug wire. Move the wire and then the spark plug to another cylinder and run the cylinder balance test again. If it follows the moved wire or spark plug, you have found the problem. If the same cylinder fails the test again, the injector is bad. If different cylinders fail the cylinder balance test, you have ignition problems or wiring problems in the 10 pin black & white electrical connectors located by the EGR.

    How to do a compression test:
    Only use a compression tester with a screw in adapter for the spark plug hole. The other type leaks too much to get an accurate reading. Your local auto parts store may have a compression tester to rent. If you do mechanic work on your own car on a regular basis, it would be a good tool to add to your collection.

    With the engine warmed up, remove all spark plugs and prop the throttle wide open with a plastic screwdriver handle between the throttle butterfly and the throttle housing. Crank the engine until it the gage reading stops increasing. On a cold engine, it will be hard to tell what's good & what's not. Some of the recent posts have numbers ranging from 140-170 PSI. If the compression is low, squirt some oil in the cylinder and do it again – if it comes up, the rings are worn. There should be no more than 10% difference between cylinders. Use a blow down leak test (puts compressed air inside cylinders) on cylinders that have more than 10% difference.

    I generally use a big screwdriver handle stuck in the TB between the butterfly and the TB to prop the throttle open. The plastic is soft enough that it won't damage anything and won't get sucked down the intake either.

    A battery charger (not the trickle type) is a good thing to have if you haven't driven the car lately or if you have any doubts about the battery's health. Connect it up while you are cranking the engine and it will help keep the starter cranking at a consistent speed from the first cylinder tested to the last cylinder.

    See the link to my site for details on how to build your own blow down type compression tester.
    #5
  6. Drew89Fox

    Drew89Fox New Member

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    Thanks! Sorry I haven't been on to post any updates, I've literally been under my car for the past week with what little free time I have. SO what I've done so far after changing the oil pump - in which I'm still lost as to why the 'new' HV pump I purchased wouldn't fit, when the 'bad' pump was a HV o_O

    -
    - Yes I did prime it...

    - I've upgraded spark plugs, wires (8.8) and even purchased MSD ss coil. - This was after I really looked at my plugs, I'm not sure how she was even cranking and turning over.

    Just yesterday I went with a buddy of mind to the PB's Speed Shop for him to purchase accessories for his ws6, and it was then that someone mentioned the harmonic balancer. I can actually see it 'wobble' so I purchased a new one, forgot the tool at PB's so I ended up going to AZ to rent the puller/installer. The balancer will only budge about a 1/4"!!! I have no idea what's keeping it on, I've already stripped one tool and I'm afraid I'm going to strip another. I've greased the bolts and even the shaft of the balancer (at least the part I can reach) - It just get's to this point and it doesn't seem to move any more.. I used the spacer piece and ended up breaking that too. When looking at the balancer it seems like it's pulling off more a the bottom than at the top. Any ideas? Why is this thing such a b***h to get off?!?! I've never removed one of these before. Anybody??
    #6
  7. srtthis

    srtthis the guy doing it does every local racers rear end

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    They should slide off pretty easy... Did you take the bolt out of the center first?
    #7
  8. Drew89Fox

    Drew89Fox New Member

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    I appreciate the plethora of knowledge... I defiantly look into the suggestions! Thanks!
    #8

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