SheBeDvl
New Member
Ohh where do I get mine?..Can you get them in colors to match your Stang?
( oh puhleeze don't take me serious LOL )
Help build new FAQ on StangNet
- Thread starter MRaburn
- Start date
Ohh where do I get mine?..Can you get them in colors to match your Stang?
( oh puhleeze don't take me serious LOL )
-
Sponsors (?)
fords2fast4u
Founding Member
ha! how about just putting the "made some progress with the Surge Deamon" thread in there?
im to lazy to read the whole thing
im to lazy to read the whole thing
Silly34
Founding Member
Check out probe talk... They have their site broke into seperate sections
Performance
suspension
matainence
Car auido and electronics
Best place to buy _____
For sale
Picture post
If a new forum is being built all aspects should be looked at and be done right so we dont have to re do it again
Performance
suspension
matainence
Car auido and electronics
Best place to buy _____
For sale
Picture post
If a new forum is being built all aspects should be looked at and be done right so we dont have to re do it again
sawbones25
Founding Member
"How to adjust your TPS voltage" would be a good thread to have.
Also "How to check timing", "How to remove the air silencer".
Threads, or FAQ's, of simple no cost mods would be very beneficial for everyone here.
Maybe arrange the threads in level of difficulty. That would help re-assure the ones who may think it's a huge project to remove the silencer, but if they see it's in the "Easy" catagory, it may help them to get motivated.
91mgt
Founding Member
Please make one for... Which Cam, and which gear should i use 3.73 or 4.10 I am sick of seeing the same threads over and over again.
Scalldd86SGT
Founding Member
I agree with Joe always the same threads, I wonder if people are even reading these threads before posting a new one.
91mgt
Founding Member
I think that most people who ask the same questions over and over again, are either new, or just too damn lazy to do a search on the topic.
91mgt
Founding Member
btw... how is this faq actually comming along? any progress on it?
there should be one for the 3g alty install, hi-torque minis starter, changing your speedo gear after you get a set of gears installed, etc....
there should be one for the 3g alty install, hi-torque minis starter, changing your speedo gear after you get a set of gears installed, etc....
Internexus
Founding Member
Another FAQ by Internexus : )
Strut/coil-spring/A-arm/disc brake removal step by step!
Average time to accomplish, first side 2-4 hours, 2nd side 1-2 hours.
First we will begin with an assortment of tools.
1. Floor jack
2. Large assortment of sockets ranging from 18mm to 24mm
3. Set of flathead screwdrivers
4. Hammer
5. Tie rod end remover.
6. Size 47 torx bit
7. Stool to sit on
8. Large hollow bar to use as breaker bar.
9. Jackstands
10. Heavy duty wire.
11. Rope
12. Crowbar
13. Hopefully thats it!
First start out by jacking up the car and putting jackstands on the frame rails (part right infront of doors). Once car is jacked up you can remove your wheels.
With the wheels removed and set aside next what you will do is run a rope through one of the holes in the wheel well and run it back through another and tie it together so one end is now tied up. Take your size 47 torx bit and socket wrench and remove the two caliper bolts. Yank off the caliper and tie the other end of the rope to the caliper and set it off to the side so its now hanging. Now is a good time to remove your front sway bar, just remove the 2 bolts (1 on each side) and lift that sucker off, be careful its heavy for such a size that it is...
Put your floor jack underneath the front part of the a-arm (right before the disc brake) and jack it up so the a-arm is now supported by the jack. Remove the pin and nut on the tie rod end bolt. Use your tie rod end remover and a hammer and beat the heck outa the tie rod and try to get it off, if it doesnt come off then put the nut back on upside down so its flush with the top of the threads and hit the top with a hammer while prying the tierod end remover down. Hopefully this pops it off.
Now you move up top and remove the 3 nuts holding the strut on. Once these are removed you now move back down to the wheel well. Take your huge wire and wrap it through one of the coils to the coil spring and wrap it around itself really well so its not comin undone. Then run it underneath and straight into the engine compartment and tie the other end to the k-member holes so that this thing is very secure.
Start to lower the jack watching to make sure everything is coming down freely and not getting hung up (the strut tends to, just knock it towards the motor and it helps clear the fender). Bring the jack completely down until it is able to come out from under the a-arm. Remove the jack and grab your crow bar. Jam it under the coilspring and pry that sucker out, it will try to fly out at you but that wires to big a match for it Remove wire and coil spring.
There are 2 bolts holding the a-arm on. Get a socket on each nut of one bolt on the left side and use the breaker bar to loosen them up and remove the nut and pull out the bolt. The otherside do the same but its a little tougher to yank out the bolt because all the weight of the a-arm is on it. What you need to do is pound the bolt out a bit with a hammer and then while someones pullin on the bolt wiggle the a-arm around until the bolts yanked. From here struggle with the a-arm/strut and yank that thing straight out. You are done! You are now ready to install a coil over strut, tubular a-arm and 5 lug disc upgrade : ) good luck!
-Internexus
Strut/coil-spring/A-arm/disc brake removal step by step!
Average time to accomplish, first side 2-4 hours, 2nd side 1-2 hours.
First we will begin with an assortment of tools.
1. Floor jack
2. Large assortment of sockets ranging from 18mm to 24mm
3. Set of flathead screwdrivers
4. Hammer
5. Tie rod end remover.
6. Size 47 torx bit
7. Stool to sit on
8. Large hollow bar to use as breaker bar.
9. Jackstands
10. Heavy duty wire.
11. Rope
12. Crowbar
13. Hopefully thats it!
First start out by jacking up the car and putting jackstands on the frame rails (part right infront of doors). Once car is jacked up you can remove your wheels.
With the wheels removed and set aside next what you will do is run a rope through one of the holes in the wheel well and run it back through another and tie it together so one end is now tied up. Take your size 47 torx bit and socket wrench and remove the two caliper bolts. Yank off the caliper and tie the other end of the rope to the caliper and set it off to the side so its now hanging. Now is a good time to remove your front sway bar, just remove the 2 bolts (1 on each side) and lift that sucker off, be careful its heavy for such a size that it is...
Put your floor jack underneath the front part of the a-arm (right before the disc brake) and jack it up so the a-arm is now supported by the jack. Remove the pin and nut on the tie rod end bolt. Use your tie rod end remover and a hammer and beat the heck outa the tie rod and try to get it off, if it doesnt come off then put the nut back on upside down so its flush with the top of the threads and hit the top with a hammer while prying the tierod end remover down. Hopefully this pops it off.
Now you move up top and remove the 3 nuts holding the strut on. Once these are removed you now move back down to the wheel well. Take your huge wire and wrap it through one of the coils to the coil spring and wrap it around itself really well so its not comin undone. Then run it underneath and straight into the engine compartment and tie the other end to the k-member holes so that this thing is very secure.
Start to lower the jack watching to make sure everything is coming down freely and not getting hung up (the strut tends to, just knock it towards the motor and it helps clear the fender). Bring the jack completely down until it is able to come out from under the a-arm. Remove the jack and grab your crow bar. Jam it under the coilspring and pry that sucker out, it will try to fly out at you but that wires to big a match for it
Remove wire and coil spring.There are 2 bolts holding the a-arm on. Get a socket on each nut of one bolt on the left side and use the breaker bar to loosen them up and remove the nut and pull out the bolt. The otherside do the same but its a little tougher to yank out the bolt because all the weight of the a-arm is on it. What you need to do is pound the bolt out a bit with a hammer and then while someones pullin on the bolt wiggle the a-arm around until the bolts yanked. From here struggle with the a-arm/strut and yank that thing straight out. You are done! You are now ready to install a coil over strut, tubular a-arm and 5 lug disc upgrade : ) good luck!
-Internexus
91mgt
Founding Member
Internexus
Founding Member
Thanks 91mgt Im just trying to figure out whats good info to do tech writeups as im workin on my 91. I agree and hope someone finds this stuff useful Take care
sean
Im just trying to figure out whats good info to do tech writeups as im workin on my 91. I agree and hope someone finds this stuff useful Take caresean
sawbones25
Founding Member
Hey, I think I came up with a good idea.
How about a parts recommendation list. Voted on by the members here.
Post a thread listing manufacturers of whatever part the thread is about, let people list favorites, then after a set time, vote on them, then keep that list in the archives or something.
Example:
Who makes the best fuel pump.
BBK
FRPP
Accufab
so on and so on...
After having the thread open for awhile, then make a vote out of it.
The list should be updated every few months or so to adjust to peoples likes or dis-likes.
I guess the point of all this is to help people who, are just looking for info on "Who makes the best so and so".
Make one for exhaust, intakes, cams, and any other part you can think of.
If possible, sort the results by cost and power demands.
That way if someone wants a decent intake for under $400, they know what is recommended by the people here. etc, etc...
How about a parts recommendation list. Voted on by the members here.
Post a thread listing manufacturers of whatever part the thread is about, let people list favorites, then after a set time, vote on them, then keep that list in the archives or something.
Example:
Who makes the best fuel pump.
BBK
FRPP
Accufab
so on and so on...
After having the thread open for awhile, then make a vote out of it.
The list should be updated every few months or so to adjust to peoples likes or dis-likes.
I guess the point of all this is to help people who, are just looking for info on "Who makes the best so and so".
Make one for exhaust, intakes, cams, and any other part you can think of.
If possible, sort the results by cost and power demands.
That way if someone wants a decent intake for under $400, they know what is recommended by the people here. etc, etc...
Internexus
Founding Member
tonym
Banned
Internexus
Founding Member
K-member Removal step by step (follow up to past step by step guide)
K-Member removal step by step
By InternexuS
Car = 91 Mustang Convertible 5.0L
For those of you that are perhaps replacing the stock bulky k-member with a tubular setup here is how to remove the stocker! At a later time I will give a manual on how to install the new tubular k-member.
In this case the motor/tranny are out so if you have a difference then you need to keep that extra stuff in mind!
Tools:
1. Socket set with 14mm and up to I believe 21mm it was?
2. Large pipe to fit over ratchet to use as breaker bar.
3. Two equal sized blocks of wood
4. Two floor jacks
5. One large flathead screwdriver
6. Two jackstands
Have the car on jackstands, USE the frame rails for where the jackstands go! Remember everyone safety first!
So to begin we take our sockets and remove the two front bolts holding the steering rack to the k-member and then remove the 2 bolts holding the steering linkage together behind the K-member.
After you have removed all those bolts tie up the steering rack somewhere and use the large screwdriver to pry the steering rack out.
Once the steering rack is out since we have already removed our a-arms/struts/rotors etc. in our previous step by step guide...
Remove the 8 bolts that hold the little X-brace onto the k-member underneath the vehicle... Watch out because these little things will fall right out although they dont weigh much they may get your eye or somethin 
Next we have 2 nuts that are visible above where the a-arms went. 2 nuts on each side that is! What you need to do is get under neath the car and find a socket that fits those bolts and loosen them a bit but DO NOT remove! Do this with all 4 of the bolts!
Now move to the rear of the K-member underneath the vehicle and remove the 4 bolts total (2 on each side), except remove these completely!
Take your 2 jackstands and put one on each side underneath the k-member and put the block of wood between the jack and k-member so you have enough length to reach it and raise the jacks enough so that they are supportin the k-member right near where the a-arms connected. Remove the 4 bolts that you previously loosened and have a friend help lower the other side while you lower your side and its a good idea to have a friend that can watch from the middle to tell you if there are any problems.. Make sure you don't get caught on any wires or anything.. Once you lower it lift that thing off your jacks and drag it from underneath the vehicle and toss aside! It's time for a new k-member! Good luck!
InternexuS
K-Member removal step by step
By InternexuS
Car = 91 Mustang Convertible 5.0L
For those of you that are perhaps replacing the stock bulky k-member with a tubular setup here is how to remove the stocker! At a later time I will give a manual on how to install the new tubular k-member.
In this case the motor/tranny are out so if you have a difference then you need to keep that extra stuff in mind!
Tools:
1. Socket set with 14mm and up to I believe 21mm it was?
2. Large pipe to fit over ratchet to use as breaker bar.
3. Two equal sized blocks of wood
4. Two floor jacks
5. One large flathead screwdriver
6. Two jackstands
Have the car on jackstands, USE the frame rails for where the jackstands go! Remember everyone safety first!
So to begin we take our sockets and remove the two front bolts holding the steering rack to the k-member and then remove the 2 bolts holding the steering linkage together behind the K-member.
After you have removed all those bolts tie up the steering rack somewhere and use the large screwdriver to pry the steering rack out.
Once the steering rack is out since we have already removed our a-arms/struts/rotors etc. in our previous step by step guide...
Remove the 8 bolts that hold the little X-brace onto the k-member underneath the vehicle... Watch out because these little things will fall right out
although they dont weigh much they may get your eye or somethin Next we have 2 nuts that are visible above where the a-arms went. 2 nuts on each side that is! What you need to do is get under neath the car and find a socket that fits those bolts and loosen them a bit but DO NOT remove! Do this with all 4 of the bolts!
Now move to the rear of the K-member underneath the vehicle and remove the 4 bolts total (2 on each side), except remove these completely!
Take your 2 jackstands and put one on each side underneath the k-member and put the block of wood between the jack and k-member so you have enough length to reach it and raise the jacks enough so that they are supportin the k-member right near where the a-arms connected. Remove the 4 bolts that you previously loosened and have a friend help lower the other side while you lower your side and its a good idea to have a friend that can watch from the middle to tell you if there are any problems.. Make sure you don't get caught on any wires or anything.. Once you lower it lift that thing off your jacks and drag it from underneath the vehicle and toss aside! It's time for a new k-member! Good luck!
InternexuS
FAQ for R134a conversion
The following is from my website, ( Http://jrichker.stangnet.com )which has some other tech items on it of use, the other one is the door lock actuator fix. ( http://jrichker.stangnet.com/Mustang_tech/door_actuator_fix/1_of_8_door_actuator.htm )
R134a Air Conditioner Conversion
R134a = $5 a can – takes 2 - 2 ½ cans.
R134a compatible oil = $5 for an 8 oz bottle – better get 2 bottles.
Gauge set for recharging = $20-$120 – check out the pawn shops for a bargain before you pay retail.
Vacuum pump – I use an old refrigerator compressor = $20- $40 at used appliance stores, or go to the Dump and get one for free. Be sure to have some R12 compatible oil handy to keep it lubed up properly.
Pump to force cleaning fluid through the system $20-$50 (may use compressed air to do the same thing).
O ring seal kit = $8.
R134a charging adapter = $13 ( I cut mine up to use it with the R12 gauge set that I have had for a long time).
Plastic tools to disconnect refrigerant lines - 1/2" & 5/8" = $4 each.
Flushing agent - Discount Auto Parts has some flushing solvent in a 1 gallon plastic bottle - try that first. Or use Mineral spirits = $2 a gallon, tetrachloroethylene =$5-$10 a gallon, takes 2 gallons of either one.
Miscellaneous hoses and fittings to adapt the flushing pump to the system, and the R134a adapter to the R12 gauge set = $15.
I did a R134a conversion on my 89GT, and used all stock parts. You will need to replace the dryer/receiver (about $75 if you get the one with the hose made as part of the unit), and should replace all of the rubber "O" ring seals as well. You will need to drain all of the oil out of the compressor and replace it with new R134a compatible oil.
Keep in mind that to fulfill the requirements of the EPA, you are required by law to recover any refrigerant that still remains in the system. How (or wither or not) you accomplish this is up to you. Connect the charging gauge hoses to the service ports on the A/C (red gauge = high pressure, blue gauge = low pressure) and open the valves on the gauges to dump the remaining refrigerant (if any) into your "freon recovery system", whatever it may be. Disconnect the charging gauges since you are finished with them until you are ready to fill the system with R134a. Next comes the nasty part – in order to get all the old oil out of the system, you will need to flush it with special flushing solvent, or mineral spirits (ok) or tetrachloroethylene (better, but may be hard to get). If you leave the old oil in place it will congeal and reduce the heat transfer in the condenser and evaporator (read that it won’t cool good) and possibly damage the compressor.
Disconnect the compressor and remove it from its mount to flush it with cleaning solvent. Pour about a cup of solvent into the suction port and turn the compressor center hub about 10 turns while shaking the compressor to move the solvent around inside the compressor sump. Drain the flushing solvent out and continue to turn the center hub by hand to force out any remaining solvent. Then fill it with oil: add about 6-8 oz of the new oil to the compressor large suction fitting. Turn the compressor center hub about 20 turns as you turn the compressor face up and face down to distribute the new oil inside the compressor. Catch and replace any oil that comes out of the compressor.
Connect the pump (I had an electric sump pump I bought for $20) to the hose from the high-pressure side of the compressor. Alternately, you could use compressed air to force the cleaning fluid through the system. I didn’t like to do this since compressed air has lots of moisture in it, which is death to A/C systems. Pump the cleaning fluid through the system and let it come out the hose that was attached to the old dryer/receiver. I used 2 gallons of mineral spirits and pumped it all through the condenser and evaporator. The expansion valve is located near the firewall in the high-pressure line of the evaporator, and may cause the cleaning fluid to trickle through the lines at a very slow pace. You may want to pump cleaning fluid through the evaporator and condenser separately to speed up the process.
Next comes the changing of all the old "O" rings so that the chances for leaks is minimized. Use the plastic connector tools to separate the lines, place the extended collar or hat shaped part of the tool so that it faces the large part of the connector and push inwards: this expands the spring so that you can pull the tube apart. You may need a helper to push on the tool while you pull on the tubes to separate them. Install the new "O" rings: be sure to coat them with new oil when you put them in. Install the new dryer/receiver, R134a service port adapter, compressor, add about more 4oz of oil to high pressure line and tighten up all the lines. Close the hood, start the engine, let everything get warm under the hood, but don’t add the R134a or turn the A/C on. Connect the charging gauge hoses to the service ports on the A/C (red gauge = high pressure, blue gauge = low pressure) and open both valves, then connect the center hose to the vacuum pump. The purpose of this exercise is to heat up the system so that when you vacuum it all down (yes, you will need a vacuum pump- mine is an old refrigerator compressor), that all the air, vapor and moisture from the cleaning fluid vaporizes and is removed from the system. Vacuum it down for about 30 minutes, this should give you about 28" of vacuum or more inside the A/C system. I have a vacuum gauge "T" connected into the vacuum pump line so that I can accurately watch the vacuuming process. This is a good time to take a soda and sandwich break since it doesn’t go faster if you watch it.
Remove the electrical connector from the dryer/receiver and jumper the two connections inside the wiring harness side of the connector together: this allows the compressor to engage in spite of low pressure/no gas in the system. Close both charging gauge valves, and then disconnect the center hose of the charging gauges from the vacuum pump and connect it to the R134a can tapper. Put the R134a can in the can tapper and screw it down with the can tapper valve closed, then open the valve. Loosen the hose at the center connection of the charging gauge set until the R134a squirts out: this purges the line of air and moisture. The refrigerant is added through the low pressure side of the system, so open the low pressure gauge valve to add the R134a. Start the car and take note of the idle speed, then set the idle speed up to about 1200-1500 rpm, and turn the A/C on inside and set the fan speed on high. Watch for the pressure on the low side to drop off as you are filling, and the R134a can will get warm and stay warm. This tells you the current can is empty and needs to be changed for a fresh one. Before you disconnect the can, be sure to close the valve on the R134a can tapper.
Watch the high side pressure on the charging gages and regulate the adding of gas to keep the high side pressure under 350 psi. You will probably need a fan in front of the car to keep the readings below 350 psi. I had to put the R134a can in hot water while I was charging the system with it, or else the can got so cold that it quit flowing. Use caution when you do this so that you don’t get water in the charging adapter when you change the cans. When you have added the 2 cans of gas, the high side will read about 250-300 psi and low side about 28-38 psi. Turn the idle speed back to where it was, turn the A/C off, disconnect the charging gauges, and re-install all the caps on the service ports. Remove the jumper from the low pressure switch harness and plug it back on the switch connectors. Then put the R134a Service Sticker on, secure all the loose wiring on the system and you are done. I hope it cools good, mine doesn’t get quite as cold as it used to driving around town.
The above technical note is for informational purposes only, and the end user is responsible for any damages or injury. The end user bears all responsibility for proper recovery/disposal of any R12 refrigerant.
The following is from my website, ( Http://jrichker.stangnet.com )which has some other tech items on it of use, the other one is the door lock actuator fix. ( http://jrichker.stangnet.com/Mustang_tech/door_actuator_fix/1_of_8_door_actuator.htm )
R134a Air Conditioner Conversion
R134a = $5 a can – takes 2 - 2 ½ cans.
R134a compatible oil = $5 for an 8 oz bottle – better get 2 bottles.
Gauge set for recharging = $20-$120 – check out the pawn shops for a bargain before you pay retail.
Vacuum pump – I use an old refrigerator compressor = $20- $40 at used appliance stores, or go to the Dump and get one for free. Be sure to have some R12 compatible oil handy to keep it lubed up properly.
Pump to force cleaning fluid through the system $20-$50 (may use compressed air to do the same thing).
O ring seal kit = $8.
R134a charging adapter = $13 ( I cut mine up to use it with the R12 gauge set that I have had for a long time).
Plastic tools to disconnect refrigerant lines - 1/2" & 5/8" = $4 each.
Flushing agent - Discount Auto Parts has some flushing solvent in a 1 gallon plastic bottle - try that first. Or use Mineral spirits = $2 a gallon, tetrachloroethylene =$5-$10 a gallon, takes 2 gallons of either one.
Miscellaneous hoses and fittings to adapt the flushing pump to the system, and the R134a adapter to the R12 gauge set = $15.
I did a R134a conversion on my 89GT, and used all stock parts. You will need to replace the dryer/receiver (about $75 if you get the one with the hose made as part of the unit), and should replace all of the rubber "O" ring seals as well. You will need to drain all of the oil out of the compressor and replace it with new R134a compatible oil.
Keep in mind that to fulfill the requirements of the EPA, you are required by law to recover any refrigerant that still remains in the system. How (or wither or not) you accomplish this is up to you. Connect the charging gauge hoses to the service ports on the A/C (red gauge = high pressure, blue gauge = low pressure) and open the valves on the gauges to dump the remaining refrigerant (if any) into your "freon recovery system", whatever it may be. Disconnect the charging gauges since you are finished with them until you are ready to fill the system with R134a. Next comes the nasty part – in order to get all the old oil out of the system, you will need to flush it with special flushing solvent, or mineral spirits (ok) or tetrachloroethylene (better, but may be hard to get). If you leave the old oil in place it will congeal and reduce the heat transfer in the condenser and evaporator (read that it won’t cool good) and possibly damage the compressor.
Disconnect the compressor and remove it from its mount to flush it with cleaning solvent. Pour about a cup of solvent into the suction port and turn the compressor center hub about 10 turns while shaking the compressor to move the solvent around inside the compressor sump. Drain the flushing solvent out and continue to turn the center hub by hand to force out any remaining solvent. Then fill it with oil: add about 6-8 oz of the new oil to the compressor large suction fitting. Turn the compressor center hub about 20 turns as you turn the compressor face up and face down to distribute the new oil inside the compressor. Catch and replace any oil that comes out of the compressor.
Connect the pump (I had an electric sump pump I bought for $20) to the hose from the high-pressure side of the compressor. Alternately, you could use compressed air to force the cleaning fluid through the system. I didn’t like to do this since compressed air has lots of moisture in it, which is death to A/C systems. Pump the cleaning fluid through the system and let it come out the hose that was attached to the old dryer/receiver. I used 2 gallons of mineral spirits and pumped it all through the condenser and evaporator. The expansion valve is located near the firewall in the high-pressure line of the evaporator, and may cause the cleaning fluid to trickle through the lines at a very slow pace. You may want to pump cleaning fluid through the evaporator and condenser separately to speed up the process.
Next comes the changing of all the old "O" rings so that the chances for leaks is minimized. Use the plastic connector tools to separate the lines, place the extended collar or hat shaped part of the tool so that it faces the large part of the connector and push inwards: this expands the spring so that you can pull the tube apart. You may need a helper to push on the tool while you pull on the tubes to separate them. Install the new "O" rings: be sure to coat them with new oil when you put them in. Install the new dryer/receiver, R134a service port adapter, compressor, add about more 4oz of oil to high pressure line and tighten up all the lines. Close the hood, start the engine, let everything get warm under the hood, but don’t add the R134a or turn the A/C on. Connect the charging gauge hoses to the service ports on the A/C (red gauge = high pressure, blue gauge = low pressure) and open both valves, then connect the center hose to the vacuum pump. The purpose of this exercise is to heat up the system so that when you vacuum it all down (yes, you will need a vacuum pump- mine is an old refrigerator compressor), that all the air, vapor and moisture from the cleaning fluid vaporizes and is removed from the system. Vacuum it down for about 30 minutes, this should give you about 28" of vacuum or more inside the A/C system. I have a vacuum gauge "T" connected into the vacuum pump line so that I can accurately watch the vacuuming process. This is a good time to take a soda and sandwich break since it doesn’t go faster if you watch it.
Remove the electrical connector from the dryer/receiver and jumper the two connections inside the wiring harness side of the connector together: this allows the compressor to engage in spite of low pressure/no gas in the system. Close both charging gauge valves, and then disconnect the center hose of the charging gauges from the vacuum pump and connect it to the R134a can tapper. Put the R134a can in the can tapper and screw it down with the can tapper valve closed, then open the valve. Loosen the hose at the center connection of the charging gauge set until the R134a squirts out: this purges the line of air and moisture. The refrigerant is added through the low pressure side of the system, so open the low pressure gauge valve to add the R134a. Start the car and take note of the idle speed, then set the idle speed up to about 1200-1500 rpm, and turn the A/C on inside and set the fan speed on high. Watch for the pressure on the low side to drop off as you are filling, and the R134a can will get warm and stay warm. This tells you the current can is empty and needs to be changed for a fresh one. Before you disconnect the can, be sure to close the valve on the R134a can tapper.
Watch the high side pressure on the charging gages and regulate the adding of gas to keep the high side pressure under 350 psi. You will probably need a fan in front of the car to keep the readings below 350 psi. I had to put the R134a can in hot water while I was charging the system with it, or else the can got so cold that it quit flowing. Use caution when you do this so that you don’t get water in the charging adapter when you change the cans. When you have added the 2 cans of gas, the high side will read about 250-300 psi and low side about 28-38 psi. Turn the idle speed back to where it was, turn the A/C off, disconnect the charging gauges, and re-install all the caps on the service ports. Remove the jumper from the low pressure switch harness and plug it back on the switch connectors. Then put the R134a Service Sticker on, secure all the loose wiring on the system and you are done. I hope it cools good, mine doesn’t get quite as cold as it used to driving around town.
The above technical note is for informational purposes only, and the end user is responsible for any damages or injury. The end user bears all responsibility for proper recovery/disposal of any R12 refrigerant.
Internexus
Founding Member
I agree lets do a "Staged Performance" type setup... Where we can do like stages that raise us to significant hp levels, but should we judge by the wheels or by flywheel hp?
sean
sean
