HELP!! Cam and specs without taking off valve cover?

00VertV2

New Member
Nov 14, 2011
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richlands, nc
I have a 94 gt with a 347 stroker:
185 AFR heads
Performer RPM II intake
70mm BBK throttle body
Summit Racing Mass Air
11:1 comp on Eagle Stroker kit with flat top pistons
MSD distributor and wires
Still have stock stamped exhaust manifolds (switching to kooks long tubes soon so I can breath)
380 rwhp/400 rwtq
3.73 gears
I think that's all the info that might be needed for my question... I was told I could get a guess on what can I have if I measured the amount of vacuum I pulling at idle without having to pull my engine apart to find out the c part number...
14 inches of vacuum at 1000 RPM idle... Really lopey idle
Please text me or pm me.. My cell is 910-467-1377... Any info will help greatly
 
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There's a way to figure out what cam you have in the car without taking off the valve cover. First, jack the car up safely and secure it on jackstands. Remove the passenger side rear tire. Remove the drum brake assembly. Printed on the inner diameter of the brake drum will be a 22 digit code of letters and numbers that has your cam specs, even if the cam has been changed from stock. I have the guide to help decipher it. Post the code in here and I'll help you out.
 
There's a way to figure out what cam you have in the car without taking off the valve cover. First, jack the car up safely and secure it on jackstands. Remove the passenger side rear tire. Remove the drum brake assembly. Printed on the inner diameter of the brake drum will be a 22 digit code of letters and numbers that has your cam specs, even if the cam has been changed from stock. I have the guide to help decipher it. Post the code in here and I'll help you out.

Is there a workaround for this if you have rear disc brakes?
 
Is there a workaround for this if you have rear disc brakes?

In the event that the car has been converted to disc brakes in the rear, the code should be laser etched on the reverse side of the rotor. In some cases, during a rear disc swap, the camshaft will be removed all together and not replaced. This does not seriously effect the performance of the car.
 
Now that's hilarious:rlaugh:

Now to answer your question no way to find out with out pulling the valve cover. Heres how to do it: Install a degree wheel on the front of the crank (youll have to remove the blancer), pull one valve cover and use a dial mic off the retainer and you can figure out what cam you have.
 
In the event that the car has been converted to disc brakes in the rear, the code should be laser etched on the reverse side of the rotor. In some cases, during a rear disc swap, the camshaft will be removed all together and not replaced. This does not seriously effect the performance of the car.

Great. Well, I pulled the rotors and found this number: 1Z8536E70371576016

Can you cross reference that with your info and let me know my cam specs? Ed says it was a turbo cam, but I just really want to be sure.
 
I see, that makes more sense now. It looks like you have the cam from a 1967 Pontiac Catalina. That was a common swap in the early 90s. They make good low end torque but you'll sacrifice some top end. Have you considered Splenda injection? You can modify the pintle caps on your injectors to accept artificial sweeteners. Guys are picking up three, four horsepower from the changeover. Check turboforums. It's a sweet upgrade...
 
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Seriously confused when it comes to pulling the tire and looking for a number... what in the hell does the number that is laser ecthed into my rotor have to do with the size, brand, and type of camshaft that i have in my engine....? i could understand how pulling the valve cover off and doing the measuring can help, but not that other method... please explain...
Now to Rick91GT- after I install the degree wheel and mic the retainer (will i have to do both intake and exhaust in case they have different lifts?) what do i do from there... what will the degree wheel show me and obviously mic the retainer will give me the lift specs... can you please text me as i don't get on here often... 910-467-1377
 
Seriously confused when it comes to pulling the tire and looking for a number... what in the hell does the number that is laser ecthed into my rotor have to do with the size, brand, and type of camshaft that i have in my engine....? i could understand how pulling the valve cover off and doing the measuring can help, but not that other method... please explain...
Now to Rick91GT- after I install the degree wheel and mic the retainer (will i have to do both intake and exhaust in case they have different lifts?) what do i do from there... what will the degree wheel show me and obviously mic the retainer will give me the lift specs... can you please text me as i don't get on here often... 910-467-1377
We can text you a whole lot!
 
Seriously confused when it comes to pulling the tire and looking for a number... what in the hell does the number that is laser ecthed into my rotor have to do with the size, brand, and type of camshaft that i have in my engine....? i could understand how pulling the valve cover off and doing the measuring can help, but not that other method... please explain...
Now to Rick91GT- after I install the degree wheel and mic the retainer (will i have to do both intake and exhaust in case they have different lifts?) what do i do from there... what will the degree wheel show me and obviously mic the retainer will give me the lift specs... can you please text me as i don't get on here often... 910-467-1377

Lol.. don't mind them, they are just doin the easy way. If you want to know then you need to crawl under the car and look in the trans tunnel just above the tranny, about 5 inches in front of the shifter and it will have the cam specs.. lol, but seriously.....
 
Seriously confused when it comes to pulling the tire and looking for a number... what in the hell does the number that is laser ecthed into my rotor have to do with the size, brand, and type of camshaft that i have in my engine....? i could understand how pulling the valve cover off and doing the measuring can help, but not that other method... please explain...
Now to Rick91GT- after I install the degree wheel and mic the retainer (will i have to do both intake and exhaust in case they have different lifts?) what do i do from there... what will the degree wheel show me and obviously mic the retainer will give me the lift specs... can you please text me as i don't get on here often... 910-467-1377

Seriously, all you need to do is loosen one rocker and remove one pushrod. Sorry, it HAS to be an intake pushrod. Measure the length of the pushrod, and circumference. Divide L by C and multiply it by 5\int_{-N}^{A} f^xf\, dx \,\oint_{C} x^(3^777777)\, dx + 4y^2\, \oint_{C} x^3\,\prod_{i=1}^N x_i\ \int_{-N}^{N} e^x\, dx \\,\ dx + 4y^2\, dy\begin{bmatrix} 0 & \cdots & 0 \\ \vdots & \ddots & \vdots \\ 84 & \cdots & cos(x)-isin(y)\end{bmatrix}\int_{-N}^{N} e^x\, dx \,\ \exists \{x,y\} \times C{-x^2}\,dx\alpha^beta \gamma \Gamma^2\, dx\ bigcup \phi a_{i,\sum_{k=\Phi}^N k^2\Phi} + GST .

This will give you lift . For duration @ .050, use the same number, but divide by 3.14XXX

If this is too much cam, don't worry with pulling it, just grind the lentgh of the push rods to compensate. I just rub the end on concrete. If you go too far with the grinding not to worry, go to the junkyard and pick up some cheap big block chevy pushrods. You can rub those babys on the drive way for days before they're too short.:nice:

Good luck man!