Help me achieve 300RWHP

[kevsstang]

As you can see in the sig I am at 279RWHP would like 300 on motor alone. I don't have an electric fan yet, but the car runs so cool with the 3 row radiator and the 180* stat that i can't complain there. Even after back to back passes at the track it ran cool. I also plan on bumping the timing from 16* to 17* not that it will make a huge difference but every little bit helps. I want to keep what i have on the car now HCI. I am going to get 1.7rr or 1.72rr and someone said that is worth 10hp? I most likely will pull the AC for weight loss. I don't want to change the 30's to 24's because of one day going SC. WHich leads me to head work. What could/should i get done with the heads? Should i do anything with the intake, however i do like the torque the Cobra produces. I appreciate any advice you guys could give.

thanks
kev

 

[5 Liter Mustang]

definitely GET the electric fan... not only to cool your engine down, but to reduce the drag on the crank.

when the fan clutch locks, who knows how much power it drains

 

[mstangracer]

get the electric fan woke up my low hp car big time also check out this article on the typhoon intake imagine what the real deal edelbrock would do over the stock cobra

http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2003/12/efiintake/index.shtml

phil

 

[kevsstang]

does anyone know how much HP gain an electric fan is over a stock one. also what about head porting. Need advice on this. Would the torque be comparable between the Edel and the Cobra?

 

[89CopCoupe]

Port the heads, better intake (Edelbrock doesn't reduce low-end power).

1.7 rocker has a .1" longer length from the pivot point to the valve stem, compared to the 1.6, giving the valve greater lift (increased air-flow).

Your 30lb injectors are good to 350rwhp based on the computers 80% cycle.

You have the fuel supply to make the power, now you need to increase the airflow.

If you remove the A/C, get the p/s pump relocator kit from FRPP, not the bracket one from March. Frees up weight (50+ lbs=better et's) and less drag on the crank (more hp).

 

[GATOR98GT]

Maybe upgrade the cam to an f. It sounds wicked and provides great top end power

 

[mat50ho]

What do you want to spend ?

1 custom cam brain, buddy, Ed. You can't go wrong with a custom.

2 Port the lower t moss and others port lowers on the side for a resonable price.

3 custom chip should give you 5 -15 rwhp depending on the original tune and the tuner. do some research and find reputial tuner.

4 electric fan wire it up with a realy over ride switch so you can have it on until you are going to race then turn it off.

That should get you very close.

Good luck

 

[kevsstang]

I don't have a specific dollar amount i want to spend as of yet. Just wondering what the possibilities are for me to get to 300. I thought about getting the lower ported but don't know of anyone to do it and also if it would cost 300 to 400 to port the lower i would rather sell the cobra and buy a different intake. I never gave much thought about the cam i do want it to be emissiond friendly. i will be getting the electric fan and an aftermarket alternater.

 

[mat50ho]

Tmoss on the corral does lower porting Send him a PM. I know its much cheaper than 300.

I think a custom cam or a dyno tune would be a much better investment than a electic fan and a alt. When your stock alt fails then its time for a 3 g and and electric fan until then I wouldn't waste the money. It would be better invested else where.

This is what i would do, if it was my car.

In this order.

I custom cam make sure you degree it. I know thaey can make one thats will pass smog.

2 port lower

3 Dyno tune improved hp, driveabilty and mpg

4 drag radials for track and play

 

[Grn92LX]

Hey Matt, you got some new improved numbers huh? Nice! Can you post the graph?

I agree with a ported lower and a custom grind cam swap..

Mike

 

[mat50ho]

I don't have the 302 333 graph I only have half of it. I have a 296 and 326 One that I will try to post.

 

[kevsstang]

I did take the car to the dyno and basically all they did was advance the timing from 12 to 16*. The guy running the dyno said he didn't want to play with the Fuel Pressure. I think the fuel pressure is at 42lbs. Looking at the dyno sheet the A/F ratio at
2500 is about 15.5
3000- 3500 it drops from 15 to 13
3500-6000 it is between 12 and 13.

I don't know if that is good or bad. I thought about bumping the timing to 17 or 18 degrees because i always run Sunoco 93 or 94. Any advice on the A/F ratio or the timing would be helpful.

kev

 

[65ShelbyClone]

It sounds like its running lean below 3500 if the A/F is 15 or more. 13-14 is better for a N/A engine. Even if it doesnt increase peak power, fixing that will probably broaden the power band(and in the most important part for a street car).

 

[mat50ho]

Grn92lx If you send me your e mail. I will send you a dyno graph.

 

[5 Liter Mustang]

just so you know... electric fans are about $25 from the junkyard, and you have options there. Taurus 3.8, Mark VIII etc.

 

[Grn92LX]

Grn92lx If you send me your e mail. I will send you a dyno graph.

[email protected]


Mike

 

[kevsstang]

thanks for the info the electric fans. I will look into that. How can i adjust the A/F ratio? And what should i adjust it to.

 

[kevsstang]

How can i fix the A/F ratio problem.

 

[mat50ho]

Have the car dyno tuned by a quality tunner

 

[kevsstang]

A/F ratio help

The car was dyno tuned by a good shop I think !?. He only wanted to advance timing to 16* because of the GT40X heads. I heard that they could handle more like 18 to 20. The fuel pressure he did not touch and i believe it is at 42 lbs. He stated by adjusting the FP it would make the A/F ratio worse. I am new to all of this and i really don't know what to believe. Again any help is greatly appreciated.

kev