help me fix my knocking problem

My understanding is that the back plate on the sample tube was placed there to reduce air turbulence for a more accurate reading. By removing the plate air flow is less hindered causing more air to flow through the sample tube even though the same amount of air is going through the MAF as always. Why would this cause a lean condition????
 
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Well, I read what Nosfurato did to his maf, and went out and tried it. I took the plate off the sampling tube in the maf. Went to run it and it worked great, then my check engine light came on. Went to the house and scanned it. Two codes came up bank one o2 sensor too rich, and bank two o2 sensor too rich. I then disconnected the battery, and let sit for an hour or so, while I watched the Saints get pummeled. Connected the battery, and it has run like a champ so far. :nice:
 
JJ95GTID said:
I sorta did the same thing with my MAF. I cut out that support thing between the sample tube and inner wall of the MAF and removed that back plate. In theory it should see more air flow which would tell the ECM to richen the A/F mixture. I run @ 14* with 91 octane fuel. I get pinging under load (4k rpm) only when the outside temp gets above 90*F. I also have new ECT, IAT, 180* t-stat, and run 2 bottles of Water Wetter in the stock radiator.

I would check that stock harmonic balancer (dampner) to see if it slipped. A few people here said that at around 80K miles theirs went bad as did mine.

My harmonic balancer cound no be spun because I have had the car since 16,000 miles an the timing has always been where I left it.
 
Solution

So I have 1 of 2 problems

1. the maf that is getting tired and giving me low reading, the computer uses the o2's and makes it run fine everywhere but wot. there the computer goes ol and since the maf is sending a signal that represents less that the acutal air going through then it results in a lean mixture and pinging. Solution, replace the maf.
2. the heads are carboned up and acting as a glow plug or raising the compression. solution, clean the heads (yuck) I could check for carboned up heads and reaised compression with a gauge in theory right?


so I'll check the compression and I'll pick up a maf if the compression looks normal. that would eliminate everything I can see.

How much would a mechanic charge to swap heads? labor $ only.
 
I was thinking, and my thought doesn't go very deep, but I am thinking it is a computer, or MAF problem. I replaced the MAF via C&L 76mm, but it keeps the same electronics as the stock one, so I can't rule it out. It, however, did not cure my pinging though. I was thinking a lean condition, so, I added more fuel. I put an adjustable FPR on, and it didn't matter what I had the pressure set to, it didn't stop the pinging. I, had also thought of the carbon, and had pretty much given up the fight, and accepted that as to why, since I have 176K on the odo. I did the whole Seafoam cleaning to no avail. Still, there was pinging. Since taking the plate off the MAF, I have not had a problem yet. I even upped the Timing to 14*, and no problems. I know you computer guru's may come in and tear up this theory, but it works for me and I'm sticking too it. In short, I think carbon has nothing to do with it, its all electronic. My two cents.
 
final5-0 said:
Jim

For that kind of money you could prob buy a Tweecer and just fix the ping thing once and for all :nice:

Later
Grady

I was thinking of that as well. call it bandaid or call it re-calibrating, it would fix the problem (and give some more tweecing fun as well)

Do I want hte RT or regular? :shrug:
 
JimTMich said:
I was thinking of that as well. call it bandaid or call it re-calibrating, it would fix the problem (and give some more tweecing fun as well)

Do I want hte RT or regular? :shrug:

The RT without a doubt :nice:

The regular Tweecer will not datalog and without datalogs you have no way to validate your changes other than the old seat of the pants meter, which we all know can be misleading.

Later
Grady
 
Maxboost50 said:
I was thinking, and my thought doesn't go very deep, but I am thinking it is a computer, or MAF problem. I replaced the MAF via C&L 76mm, but it keeps the same electronics as the stock one, so I can't rule it out. It, however, did not cure my pinging though. I was thinking a lean condition, so, I added more fuel. I put an adjustable FPR on, and it didn't matter what I had the pressure set to, it didn't stop the pinging. I, had also thought of the carbon, and had pretty much given up the fight, and accepted that as to why, since I have 176K on the odo. I did the whole Seafoam cleaning to no avail. Still, there was pinging. Since taking the plate off the MAF, I have not had a problem yet. I even upped the Timing to 14*, and no problems. I know you computer guru's may come in and tear up this theory, but it works for me and I'm sticking too it. In short, I think carbon has nothing to do with it, its all electronic. My two cents.

Karl

IMHO you are thinking along the right lines :nice:

When I read your post it made think of another thing I would like to say about this ping thing.

How many times do we see a GT stang with a just a few minor mods go to the dyno for a baseline pull and his a/f ratio is really lean. It is regular thing if you stop and think about it.

If you look at the GT pcm values the spark is high and the fuel is lean :bang:

Draw your own conclusions :)

Later
Grady
 
Maxboost50 said:
I was thinking, and my thought doesn't go very deep, but I am thinking it is a computer, or MAF problem. I replaced the MAF via C&L 76mm, but it keeps the same electronics as the stock one, so I can't rule it out. It, however, did not cure my pinging though. I was thinking a lean condition, so, I added more fuel. I put an adjustable FPR on, and it didn't matter what I had the pressure set to, it didn't stop the pinging. I, had also thought of the carbon, and had pretty much given up the fight, and accepted that as to why, since I have 176K on the odo. I did the whole Seafoam cleaning to no avail. Still, there was pinging. Since taking the plate off the MAF, I have not had a problem yet. I even upped the Timing to 14*, and no problems. I know you computer guru's may come in and tear up this theory, but it works for me and I'm sticking too it. In short, I think carbon has nothing to do with it, its all electronic. My two cents.


nice to know that afpr didn't do enough. if you went to 42 psi that would be a 10% change adder in fuel during ol, 46 woudl be about 20%. did you go that high?



you basically did the same thing with the maf mod, must be a pretty extreme change on the maf curve by removing that plate :D
 
JimTMich said:
So I have 1 of 2 problems

1. the maf that is getting tired and giving me low reading, the computer uses the o2's and makes it run fine everywhere but wot. there the computer goes ol and since the maf is sending a signal that represents less that the acutal air going through then it results in a lean mixture and pinging. Solution, replace the maf.

100% correct, assuming the MAF is bad. You will never know for sure, so like I said before, try one out, and see what happens.


2. the heads are carboned up and acting as a glow plug or raising the compression. solution, clean the heads (yuck) I could check for carboned up heads and reaised compression with a gauge in theory right?

Carbon in the cc's will not increase compression, unless there is so much carbon that there is an 1/2" thick wall of it, which would decrease the cc size. This is not the case.

It is acting like a glo plug, like you said, which means you have a spark plug all the time, when the motor is hot.

The sure fire test for this would be to see if the car pings when the motor is bone cold. I mean, you take the car out to a place that you can bang through the gears. Then, let the car sit for 8 hours or so. That should let that iron release all of the heat. Then go back to your car, and start it, and immediately rip through all 4 gears. If the car doesn't ping, or the pinging is a lot less, then carbon could definately be a factor. If the amount of pinging doesn't change, then heat has nothing to do with it, and it's an a/f ratio problem.

Trouble with this test, is you need someone to follow you out to the place, and take you back home. Also, you need to be able to park the car for 8 hours. The problems stems from the actual act of pinging. It makes the heads really hot when you do, which will heat the carbon up really quickly. So you need a bone cold car to perform a "objective" test.

Get the car nice and hot, and bang through the gears. You need to take note of what RPM the car starts to ping for every gear. This will give you a baseline run.

If the differences bewteen hot and cold are nill, or minimal, then like I said before, it's a a/f ratio problem.


How much would a mechanic charge to swap heads? labor $ only.

Realistically, at least 4 hours of work, which would translate to $250 at least. Possibly more; Just call around, and get a time estimate. The run it in the computer, and will get a time estimate. Figure $60/hr for labor, tack on an extra $50, and you have your realistic quote.

If you were to do them yourself, you wouldn't need to mess with cam timing. Just re-adjusting your rockers, replacing the gaskets, and head bolts (torque to yield from the factory, so new bolts are needed)

Scott
 
mo_dingo said:


Great info!
I live right on the highway, car does not pig until it warms up. Runs fantastic for the first 2 -5 minutes when driving sorta hard. I'll bump the timing back up tonight and give it a stone cold hammer. but it sounds like carbon buildup is the culprit. the first 35,000 were mostly 1 mile drives to work so that could deffinately build up a little carbon.
Thanks
Jim
 
A guy I know installed a Tweecer, and even though he cleaned his MAF, the Tweecer datalogs showed the MAF being 13% (I think) off of normal. After he fixed it, his problem went away. So maybe a new MAF sensor would fix the problem.

Wasn't that me Scott? :p Yeah nothing in the world ever would have fixed my pinging. I didn't find that out untill I bought the Tweecer and found the MAF just read too low. I richened the whole curve and fixed it completely. I won't ping in 110° degree weather with the A/C on :nice: It's a really expensive way to fix the problem but I didn't and still don't care, it's worth it.
 
Fixed?

Well, since I have replaced the MAF I have all kinds of power!!! :nice:
So I bumped the timing back up to 10* and no knocking and more power! :nice: :D We'll see how it does in the heat today, but this is the first thing that I have done that really made a difference. The MAF was a big factor on my car. There may still be some carbon on the heads, but a rebuilt maf was a big step!
Thanks Guys!
 
OK, here goes. I did the mod that Nosfurato did. It was to remove the plate off the back side of the MAF. This mod completely cured my pinging problem. It did, however, make my car extremely rich, and my fuel mileage went down. Now, being an Air Force mechanic for 17 years, you learn a little trouble shooting, but I was not following that protocol like I was trained to. I had put a C&L MAF on my car, but yet my car still pinged. I never looked at the common factor. The C&L's use the stock MAF electronics. I had never bought a new sensor like everyone said too. So, that is what I did this week, only to find out that this didn't work. I don't even think it made it any better. So now what? If I take the plate off the MAF, it'll run rich. Then I thought, what if I modified the plate to make only a partial opening. Well, that is what I did, and I must say it has worked perfectly. I even have my timing set at 14*, and no ping. Here is a picture of what I did.
dsc03822.jpg
Call it a bandaid if you like.
 
Maxboost50 said:
OK, here goes. I did the mod that Nosfurato did. It was to remove the plate off the back side of the MAF. This mod completely cured my pinging problem. It did, however, make my car extremely rich, and my fuel mileage went down. Now, being an Air Force mechanic for 17 years, you learn a little trouble shooting, but I was not following that protocol like I was trained to. I had put a C&L MAF on my car, but yet my car still pinged. I never looked at the common factor. The C&L's use the stock MAF electronics. I had never bought a new sensor like everyone said too. So, that is what I did this week, only to find out that this didn't work. I don't even think it made it any better. So now what? If I take the plate off the MAF, it'll run rich. Then I thought, what if I modified the plate to make only a partial opening. Well, that is what I did, and I must say it has worked perfectly. I even have my timing set at 14*, and no ping. Here is a picture of what I did.
dsc03822.jpg
Call it a bandaid if you like.

Sweet! looks like you found yet another way to goof with the computer! Probablly like taking your fuel pressure up to 50psi, or re-programming the computer with a +30% on the maf or something. I was thinking of how to do that electronically, but this is far less complicated.

Thanks for your service to the country in the air force! :flag: