help me fix my knocking problem

[law]

How does that look unmodified? I would like to see exactly what you did.

 

[mo_dingo]

Wasn't that me Scott? Yeah nothing in the world ever would have fixed my pinging. I didn't find that out untill I bought the Tweecer and found the MAF just read too low. I richened the whole curve and fixed it completely. I won't ping in 110° degree weather with the A/C on It's a really expensive way to fix the problem but I didn't and still don't care, it's worth it.

But of course! You are the only friend I have on here, besides JT (HISSIN50), and he wouldn't touch a tweecer if his life depended on it!!!

Well, that sucks that it didn't fix your pinging. After I removed my MAF sensor from the housing, & cleaned it throughly, my pinging was GONE!!! Or so I thought. It still comes back occasionally. But new heads will fix that problem, and very soon!!!

If you really don't want to remove the heads, you can try a cleaner.

I don't mean some crappy cleaner, I mean something that will really work. Albeit I don't know what will work 100%, but I am sure someone here will know.

I am thinking a heavy duty degreaser, or something like that. I don't think carb cleaner will do the trick. I have some stuff at work would do it. The crap it removes from RV's really amazes me.

But make it all day project. Meaning you will need to soak each combustion chamber in the "fluid". Remove all of the spark plugs, crank the #1 cylinder to TDC, then fill the CC with the fluid, and let it sit for an hour or so. Then siphon out the fluid, & replace the spark plug. Then go to the next cylinder in the firing order, and crank it to TDC, and repeat until all of the cylinders have been cleaned.

Note: If the fluid comes out reall black, this is a good sign. If it does, then you might want to repeat the process for each cylinder, until the fluid comes out the same color as it originally was.

An hour may be excessive, if the fluid does it's job in 5 minutes.

Also, you should consult someone that has done this before. Like at a shop that you trust. They might know a chemical that works and is safe for the iron heads and pistons.

Some chemicals will corrode metal, so you need to be careful. The degreaser at my work does, so it's not a practical example.

I will ask my friend if he still has the heads off of his old honda. They were covered in carbon, and would work great as a test mule. Heck, you could even ask for some heads at a junkyard that are carbon-ifed!!! That would probably be the best way. Soak each cc in different cleaners & monitor the progress over time so you can do it on your car.

Excessive, I know, but it sounds like you are completely disgusted with pinging, and will resort to anything. This is your only option, besides yanking the heads and taking a grinder to them.
Scott

 

[HISSIN50]

But of course! You are the only friend I have on here, besides JT (HISSIN50), and he wouldn't touch a tweecer if his life depended on it!!!
Scott

you got that right! although the 4th gen camaro (G/F's car) is much more needy in terms of this high tech mumbo-jumbo; i have been reading up.

i would 'touch one' [Tweecer, etc] as long as John or Scott were willing to help me out (im the equivelant of a trained monkey - no offense to monkeys out there). i often say to myself, "would it be cheaper to fix problem XXX by dropping an intake and carb on this thing?"

sorry to be :OT:

 

[Maxboost50]

Jim, see the black half moon to the right inside the meter? The metal plate usually goes all the way to the inner rim of the meter. I made a whole new metal plate, but you could just modify the one you have. I didn't want to cut on my original, in case down the line I actually fix the problem, or bring it to a dealer, heaven forbid, and they need the car back to stock to diagnose.

 

[Nosfurato]

Jim, see the black half moon to the right inside the meter? The metal plate usually goes all the way to the inner rim of the meter. I made a whole new metal plate, but you could just modify the one you have. I didn't want to cut on my original, in case down the line I actually fix the problem, or bring it to a dealer, heaven forbid, and they need the car back to stock to diagnose.

Hey now, lets not forgett that I am the original source of this idea

But, anyway,. I guess this makes two of us that have solved the dreaded pinging.

I would LOVE to hear some more success out of this idea.

Personally, Ive had the same experiance as MAX. Ive bumped my initial up, and I have only heard a VERRY slight ping. Before, I thought I had 10 bags of marbles in the motor. RATTLE RATTLE RATTLE. and that was at 10*. I am now up to 14* with verry VERRY little ping. even when hot.

Personally, I think my fuel milage got a bit better as well. I also gained power. I would say the car pulls better from.. ohh.. the 3500 - 4500-RPM rang now.

Anyway. keep the results comin!! and hey... its only two screws. if it doesnt work, you can put them back!

EDIT::: I had also previously removed the screen from my MAF.

 

[Maxboost50]

Hey NOS, not trying to steal your thunder. Just glad you thought of it. With the plate completely off on my car,it ran awesome. It had plenty of power, but it ran way too rich. I think I have mine adjusted perfect.

 

[HoofnIt]

This whole pinging issue can all be attributed to the CRAPPY computer programming! Look at all those pre 94/95 5.0s out there that have NO pinging issues. Think of all those stangs with all that carbon build up and still no ping.
Even after my HCI, AFR's, my car will still ping just a little bit, but nothing like it used to. I can't wait to get PIH or PMS!

 

[Maxboost50]

I agree with you 100% Hoof, I don't think carbon has anything to do with it. I think it is all computer.

 

[mo_dingo]

I agree with you 100% Hoof, I don't think carbon has anything to do with it. I think it is all computer.

Our computers make the motor much more susceptible to pinging, but they are NOT the cause of the pinging. If that was true, then they would have pinged as soon as they rolled out of the factory gates. Ya know?

If his a/f ratio is correct, then the only answer is carbon. I have done a 2 head swaps, and both had carbon caked on the combustion chambers and piston tops.

Look at Ernan's headswap pictures (Seth5.0 or Slow5.0). His were covered in carbon as well. That is just one example!

Scott

:OT:

i would 'touch one' [Tweecer, etc] as long as John or Scott were willing to help me out (im the equivelant of a trained monkey - no offense to monkeys out there). i often say to myself, "would it be cheaper to fix problem XXX by dropping an intake and carb on this thing?...

I know, I was just messin' with ya!!! But I wouldn't be of much help in the Tweecer dept. I haven't opened into that pandora's box yet. But once I get my h/c/i up and running, it's almost certain (can't wait!!!).
Scott

 

[c4performance]

M S D 6al, billet dist., blaster 2 coil. "nuff said"

 

[Nosfurato]

Hey NOS, not trying to steal your thunder. Just glad you thought of it. With the plate completely off on my car,it ran awesome. It had plenty of power, but it ran way too rich. I think I have mine adjusted perfect.

No big thing dude.. I was just being a smartass

Anyway, its not like im getting paid or anything, or like this idea is gonna turn the world on its head.

Im just happy to hear that it helped solve another stangnet members problem.

Anyway, if anyone else comes up with an idea that could further this theory.. please. chime in!!