Help, why is my engine knocking?

Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by JimTMich, Nov 11, 2003.


  1. JimTMich

    JimTMich Member

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    Still nocking a bit

    Well, what next, it's still nocking a little above 3500. I have not played with the fuel pressure yet?
  2. 95GTvert[bv12]

    95GTvert[bv12] Founding Member

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    it it's only above 3500 i am willing to bet your timing is off.....also when you put new sensors in did you removie the battery cables for atleast 30min? if not do this also check the fuel pressure you should be seeing anything around 40psi
  3. jmuva44

    jmuva44 Founding Member

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    Also, make sure when you install the NEW IAT sensor that you index it so that it is properly phased to the incoming air. The opening of the sensor should be at a 90 degree angle to the incoming air otherwise the readings may be off.
  4. JimTMich

    JimTMich Member

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    I did index the IAT. :nice:

    Did not take off the battery cable at all. What will this do for me? :shrug:

    Timing should be OK. I check and it was 14 right on. I've owned the car since 16k miles and have never played with the timing. Only knocks when warm as well. :shrug:

    I need to check fuel pressure. Just use any gauge I have and hose it up and take out the schrader fitting? I can't seem to find a "fuel pressure gauge" around here. It's hard getting compitent help at auto parts stores sometimes. :bang:
  5. sc302

    sc302 New Member

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    look at your coolant, if it is merky get it flush and filled (this should be done yearly) also if you have not changed your radiator within 5yrs it's probably time to do so (life expectancy is about 5 years). Heat, too much fuel or not enough fuel all effect pinging (there are other contributing factors also, but those are the major ones to look out for).
  6. 95GTvert[bv12]

    95GTvert[bv12] Founding Member

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    diconneting the battery will rest the computer....it will make it relearn how the car is runing it seems to almost be a magic cure for alot of simple things like rough idle and pinging
  7. fearless302

    fearless302 New Member

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    i am having the same problem???? i am wanting to replace all the sensors mentioned but what does all this stuff mean?

    ECT
    ACT
    IAC

    and whatever else there is.....????

    i have never been real good with abbreviations....
  8. White03Mach

    White03Mach Founding Member

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    alright... knocking and pinging are different.... which is it doing? if its detonating bad it should sound like someone is shaking a coffee can with marbles in it. A knock, however could be a rod knocking, being cause by a rod bearing or main bearing or such. If you have detonation, which 94-95s had a problem with, keep up the higher octane. I work for ford and at our dealership we use an induction service by a co. called BG, we call it a BG-K induction service. Basically its 2 induction cleaners and a fuel tank additive. It takes about 35-45 mins and the 2 cleaners are sprayed into the throttle body with the car running at a low pressure. The induction sucks it in and it helps to cleanse the cylinders. The car smokes like all hell from the exhaust... thats how you know all the carbon is burning off. You should goto your local dealer and ask about it. Hope i helped out some
  9. JimTMich

    JimTMich Member

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    detonating

    It's pre-ignition/detonation, not the rods.
    I'll call my dealer about that. I have that fan circuit breaker install recall to do still anyway so I could do both at the same time. I still have to look at the fuel pressure and try re-setting the computer. Got slowed down by Thanksgiving.

    ECT = Engine Coolant Temperature Located on the top of the intake manifold. $25
    IAC = Intake Air charge temperature sensor located in the rubber elbow between the Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF) and the throttle body. $13

    One of the first topics has a list of usefull info including abreviations. The Haynes manual has these listed as well, only a little differently.
  10. JimTMich

    JimTMich Member

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    Still pinging

    Reset the computer by removing the battery terminals (broke one in the process :bang: ) for 45 minutes and it's still pinging on 93 octane Shell with 30F air outside. Pings once the engine is warm and at Wide Open Throttle above 3500 rpm. :shrug:

    Still need to check fuel pressure.
    Have not gotten the BG cleanout.
  11. jmuva44

    jmuva44 Founding Member

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    Three things i'd check is timing, clean the MAF, and replace the ACT sensor.
  12. JimTMich

    JimTMich Member

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    Yup, got those covered. 14 degrees, cleaned MAF, new ACT indexed, new fuel filter, plugs, cap, rotor, wires, new K&N air filter (why not), new ECT...
  13. Rootus

    Rootus Officially Addicted

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    Hopefully not pre-ignition, that'll make short work of the engine :p.

    I'm curious -- Did you pull codes? Get any?

    Dave
  14. JimTMich

    JimTMich Member

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    Codes


    I tried to check the engine codes by watching the light on the dash instead of using the voltmeter and the codes didn't make sence.

    (1) 3 3
    1 3 3

    and that was it. Haynes doesn't show anything for a 133. The first (1) was really short thought
  15. JimTMich

    JimTMich Member

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    Speeking of pre-ignition....
    I've got a piston from my superstock jet ski that I put a hole in in about 10 minutes when it went lean.(carb shook loose) :bang:
  16. QCStang

    QCStang Founding Member

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    My code reader book shows nothing for 133. There is a listing for 33 (Engine running, continous memory) - EGR bad. I'll check my Chiltons.

    I see you are at 14*, not 10?
  17. JimTMich

    JimTMich Member

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    Haynes says 14*. Are you saying 10* is where I should be? :shrug: I have never touched the timing and had it since 96. Found the timing at 14 degrees, hayes says 14 degrees, so I left it where it was.

    as far as the codes goes, I'm reading the check engine light flashes, not sweeps of an analog meter. Those codes don't mean anything to me reading the Haynes book, so I must be doing something wrong. :bang:
  18. QCStang

    QCStang Founding Member

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    Chiltons only mentions the base timing is different for each car, and to find out your base timing, check the Vehicle Emissions Control Information sticker in the engine bay, its on a plastic cover near the washer fluid reservoir.

    Guaranteed that if you drop your timing to 12* using premium fuel, no knock. 10* on regular, no knock.

    As far as the CE flashes, I use a code reader from walmart. $25, came with a book, it does the "flashes" AND tones so I can hear it too, and don't hafta keep running back and forth to the console.

    :nice:
  19. Rootus

    Rootus Officially Addicted

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    Stock timing from ford is 10* base.

    Dave
  20. JimTMich

    JimTMich Member

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    10 degrees

    Your right! :rlaugh: 10 degrees it is! I guess we found my problem to be simple. I'm running 14 degrees and lightly pinging on 93 octane. Should I retard to 10 and run regular or try 13 on premium. will I notice a difference at 10 with regular compared to the 14?
    thankd for all the help everyone!

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