Sounds like it's getting on track. The cam is a budget thing. Not sure it's worthwhile to spring for a custom cam until you know specifics, like how much boost you are going to run and so forth.
Kurt
Kurt
I called and asked, the first price he quoted me was for a custom grind cam. So that's good. I only plan on 6-8lbs. of boost. If I go bigger later I can have another made. He said the lead time is about 3-4 weeks. I'm assuming it could be a little longer. Tomorow he is going to call me with a price on the setup with the Victor Jr's?Sounds like it's getting on track. The cam is a budget thing. Not sure it's worthwhile to spring for a custom cam until you know specifics, like how much boost you are going to run and so forth.
Kurt
Can you be more specific as what to ask?Ask what he could do with a set of Trick Flow heads?
Kurt
Thanks for the input. I just talked to Tony (Owner) and he said he'll have Erick at ?Erson? call me tomorow to figure out my custom grind camshaft. He also said he'd be willing to deliver it to PTC, since he comes out to Newnan often. He just wants parts up front ($3200), then the labor ($1200) when he delivers it...That's not a bad deal they are offering at all. I agree with Kurt, use the blower money and put into the motor. I've run both 302 Blown and stroker 347 and the stroker was a TQ monster. Plus it was a helluva easy thing to tune over a finicky blower.
I think for an entry level HCI 302, you are probably looking at a Trick Flow 170cc head on a rebuilt 306 bottom end. That's probably what's going to be in your budget range. I used the Victor Jr. head as an example of a good head that Edelbrock makes. However, I think it would be a little big for your budget.
Kurt
Tony is charging me $4400 for the long block. I do need a good intake, as for the carb I have a new Eddy 1406 that I plan on putting my 1405 Metering Rods & Springs in. I figure money for nitrous will come with the blower selling. I was wondering how well can this thing run with that big of head. From my understanding it would be good for a high revving motor, but not so well in a 5500RPM max range motor. Should I do 190cc or 170cc, or can the cam grinder really make it run great with those bigger Victor Jr.'s? We're getting there!!There you go. I like nitrous.
I think it's too big for your budget. The heads and cam will run you $1500ish. A little more for the intake and carb. That leaves you $3k to get the bottom end done and a few other things. It will be tight.
Kurt
Alright, I was wondering how the compression would relate with nitrous. I know it has to be significantly lower for boosted applications. Sorry if I sound nieve. Nitrous is new to me. I'm just afraid with that big of a head (210CC) and my 3.55 gears I'd have alot of bucking at low rpms. I'm a confident and fairly good driver with a manual. Alright 6500rpm is higher than I was thinking. I figured for durability and reliability sake I would rev to 5-5500rpm, am I leaving alot on the table by not revving higher, with/without those heads? Would the RPM Performer 190CC Heads be better, or best of both worlds?If you're scraping the blower idea make sure you add some compression back into the build. Somewhere around 10:1. If you stick with Vic jr's I'd add as much compression,cam,gears,etc and make a high rpm screamer. Somewhere around 6500rpm would be my limit for durability. Throw some juice at it and with the right set up 500+hp is very possible.
For dedicated nitrous vs N/A "race" engines this is somewhat true but for what you're trying to do build the best N/A engine you can and add a "conservative" shot for the times you want to race. Nitrous on the street is fairly worthless unless you are going to put a lot of electronics on the system controlling the "hit". I'm sure you noticed what traction limitations your car had previous. Add 100+Ft lbs tq on that with the new engine. Now add another 150-250 Ft lbs with a nitrous hit...forgot about traction!! With 3.55 gears you would be best to get a custom hyd roller cam making big mid rpm tq and maxing out around 6000-6300rpm. To give you an idea on the nitrous I've ran 150 dry shot systems for years. My present combo is a mild refreshed stock shortblock with an ecam() mild ported stock heads and a 150 shot(full exh,boltons etc). With good drag radials it's capable of low to mid 13s and low 12's with the nitrous. A fresh 306 with 190cc heads,good cam,10:1cr,etc should easily run a sec quicker. You don't need 10:1 but you DO NOT want to be below 9:1cr. With alum heads and the proper tuneup that engine will run a long time (if built properly). Remember the stock block is the limiting factor. Some run 500+hp @ high rpm/boost/nitrous whatever for awhile some not so long. Be conservative on your nitrous tune. Don't go crazy on jets,timing etc and you'll have fun(if creative you'll surprise/whip a lot of racers)Alright, so after doing some research. I figured that higher compression will help the motor running N/A as well as with nitrous. Higher compression though will be harder on parts with the spray. As this is my DD and plan to use the juice, fairly often. Should i go low compression, w/ a bigger shot(s) or higher compression with a conservative shot? Also, remember my gearing being 3.55 and those big heads. I need to get this figured out so he can start building, but I want it close to perfect... My understand is that you can't have a strong N/A motor and nitrous. It's either a strong N/A or strong nitrous. Time is killing me ha-ha.