Help With Motor Buying.

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by 85rkyboby, Jun 19, 2014.


  1. A5literMan

    A5literMan Mustang Master

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    I personally don't have any expierience with blowers. If I were in the market for a stock block rebuild and limited to a 302/306 with a carb I would go the 9-10.5:1cr route with the nitrous. Focus on buying the best heads/cam you can afford. That is were you will make your power. You truly need to know exactly what you want to accomplish. Durability/modest power or power/less durability.

    What I would do is refurbish my rods & crank. Machine the block,etc, new pistons/rings,gaskets,bearings,etc. TFS 190-205cc heads,custom hyd roller,Eddy Vic jr intake,good 650cfm or so carb and a small nitrous kit for the strip. With a descent suspension,tire,chassis,and 3.73-4.10 gears you should have a car capable of solid drivability with enough to run 12's n/a and 11s with nitrous.
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  2. 85rkyboby

    85rkyboby Active Member

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    Weiand 174, but I'm interested in something newer.
  3. revhead347

    revhead347 I have face herpes.

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    Man, that thing is a dinosaur. It's nostalgic, I'll give it that. There are a lot of opinons on running a centrifugal blower with a carbuerator. Some say it's a hassle, some say it works great with a blow through carb. Almost everything I deal with is fuel injected so I wouldn't know. The roots blowers like your Weiand don't add a whole lot of power, and they heat up the air a lot. They are the least efficient superchargers, but they are reliable as hell, and easy to use with a carbuerator. It's up to you what you want to do with it. You would honestly have a little more power with a 9:1 engine and that blower vs a 10:1 engine N/A. I would say 400hp vs 350hp. The blower engine would also have more low end torque whereas the N/A engine would have to wind up a little more. It's hard to say no to a blower when you already have it. I also wouldn't recommend upgrading to a centrifugal supercharger if you intend to stick the carbuerator setup. More hassle than it's worth. Nitrous on a good N/A setup will yield the most performance, but if you aren't track racing a lot or at least driving around on a good set of sticky tires it probably won't do you much good. It's all personal preference.

    Kurt
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  4. 2000xp8

    2000xp8 Mustang Master

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    The weiand 174 can be ported by steigermiere. It will reduce heat and add power.
    http://www.dynobob.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=2141459
    I've used them to port and rebuild my m90. Trustworthy company.

    Me personally? I'd port and use it. I bet it will be a blast to drive.
    You already have it, it's better than selling it and buying something else.
    If i had the choice of 50hp with a supercharger or 100 with nitrous, i'd take the 50 every time.
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2014
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  5. 85rkyboby

    85rkyboby Active Member

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    When you build a blower motor, do you break in the motor with the blower installed? Or does it matter? Thanks for the link @2000xp8, I would never thought about porting the blower. Is it a noticeable amount of heat reduction? They say about 10 extra HP/LB of boost. Which to me would be well worth the $400.
    Would 9:1 be a safe # if I wanted to run a smaller pulley one day? Or would a smaller pulley just be out of the question due to the heat factor and bumper to bumper temps?
  6. 2000xp8

    2000xp8 Mustang Master

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    I'm no compression guru, as i've said earlier i'm not the biggest fan of purpose built 302 or 306's when done with a stock block. Whatever stock compression is, imo, is fine.

    As for the pulley, it's one of those things that is probably going to need some experimenting. They are roughly $100 each usually, so if you have to buy extra pulley's, it is what it is. It's not like an 03 cobra where the research has already been done and everyone knows what works best.

    Restrictions cause heat with superchargers, so how much lower, i have no clue, but better heads and ported supercharger certainly should help.

    Depending on mileage and condition, you may blow through that $400. If it needs a rebuild you will probably be in it a few hundred more bucks.

    As for break in, everyone has their own theory. Most engines are run hard on the dyno before they ever hit the street, so...
  7. 85rkyboby

    85rkyboby Active Member

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    Thanks, a bunch. Yea, from most of the stuff I've learned about these blowers has been from a few buddies of mine that are older guys that run them. Really isn't chit on the internet. Most post or ?'s normally get derailed or just abandoned.
  8. 85rkyboby

    85rkyboby Active Member

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    Anything yall know about Prestige Motorsports? Good reviews! Everything seems legit except for the numbers, seem a tad high, but maybe yall can tell me something I don't know. Here's some specs...
    • Engine Model - PRE-347-C1
    • Horsepower - 425 HP
    • Torque - 425 Ft Lbs
    • Bore and Stroke - 4.030 x 3.400 Inches
    • Compression Ratio - 10:1
    • Fuel - Premium pump gas
    • Crankshaft - Eagle or Scat Cast Steel
    • Connecting Rods - Forged I Beam, bushed
    • Pistons - Speed Pro Hypereutectic
    • Rings - File fit plasma moly
    • Block - Ford 302 roller block, one piece rear seal
    • Camshaft - Comp Hydraulic roller
    • Lifters - OEM style hydraulic roller
    • Timing Set - Double roller chain
    • Timing Cover - New aluminum
    • Harmonic Balancer - Professional Products
    • Oil Pump - Melling standard volume
    • Oil Pan - Stock style chrome (front or rear sump)
    • Heads - Dart or Edelbrock Aluminum
    • Head Bolts - ARP
    • Valves - Stainless steel 2.02 Intake 1.60 Exhaust
    • Springs - Dual with dampener
    • Rocker Studs - ARP 7/16 diameter screw in type
    • Rocker Arms - Aluminum full roller, 1.6 ratio
    • Pushrods - 5/16 Hardened steel with guide plates
    • Intake Manifold - Aluminum Edelbrock RPM Air Gap
    • Valve Covers - Chrome stamped
    • Spark Plugs - Autolite 3922
    • Oil Filter - Fram PH8A or comparable
    • Ignition Timing - 32 degrees at 4,000 RPM
    • Oil Type - Mineral based
    • 3 year unlimited mile warranty

    Each Customer is provided the documented blue printing and specification sheets along with a DVD copy of the dyno run. The engine is than cleaned, tagged and bagged ready for shipment.
  9. mikestang63

    mikestang63 Mustang Master

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    These are the two people I would consider buying a motor from

    Woody @ fordstokers.com
    Mark Oneal @ CHP
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  10. 85rkyboby

    85rkyboby Active Member

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    I got a question pertaining to the blower on a 302/306. Holley suggest that a street driven/(92) application you should keep your effective compression ratio below 12:1. According to the Effective Compression Ratio Chart for the Weiand 174. That would mean I could only run 6-8 psi and that would be with a static compression of 8.0. So there saying the most boost I could run would be 10-12psi with a static compression ratio of 7.0. These seem like really low compression #'s, I just didn't think people were running these low of compression something I'm missing? I guess to make as much boost as possible it will take Timing Retard, Water/Meth Injection, Low Static Compression, Etc?
  11. revhead347

    revhead347 I have face herpes.

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    I think they are being over conservative with that 12:1. Just run 6 to 8 psi and see if you like it. Standard break in procedure for a straight hone rebuild is 500 miles no more than 3000rpms, low throttle, vary rpm. If you have a taper hone or an elyiptical hone, the procedure is different, but almost all car engines are rebuilt with a straight hone. Not breaking it in right can cost you power down the road, so don't cheat.

    Kurt
  12. 85rkyboby

    85rkyboby Active Member

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    Alright thanks, just trying to decide on a compression ratio. How low can one go on compression, before it's just not enough?
  13. revhead347

    revhead347 I have face herpes.

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    I would just go back with the stock compression of 9:1. It's too much of a hassle to get it lower than that. You have to hunt around for really big cc heads, or find some custom inverted dome pistons. Just not worth it.

    Kurt
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  14. tamadrummer88

    tamadrummer88 Active Member

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    Is there a reason why you're sticking with a carb setup? I think you'd have a bigger world of performance options converting or staying with EFI, not to mention reliability.

    Just my opinion, not trying to start a flame war.
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  15. 85rkyboby

    85rkyboby Active Member

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    I'm actually asking some questions about the efi harness on another post. Definitely a possiblity, just at this point a motor long block alone is going to cost about my limit for the motor. I'm not a die hard carb guy, but I would love to own a performance shop for carbed cars. I'm still young, maybe one day. Not many at all around here that I know of, I just learn from the old racing guys :nice:.
    @revhead347 Damn how big of heads you talking? Thanks.
  16. tamadrummer88

    tamadrummer88 Active Member

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    Have you looked into the 306 crate motor from Ford Racing? 3600 gets you a 306 block, GT40 aluminum heads and an E-cam.
  17. 85rkyboby

    85rkyboby Active Member

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    For an extra $800 I can Victor Jr. Heads & a custom cam built purposely for the bottle or my blower. With a 12 month/12k mile warranty, locally built, & free delivery. Are you running that 306?
  18. tamadrummer88

    tamadrummer88 Active Member

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    No I'm running a stock 5.0 with EFI.
  19. 85rkyboby

    85rkyboby Active Member

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    I didn't research that motor much. AM had a bad review and everyone here seems to know that if it isn't by CHP or FordStrokers it prolly isn't worth the money and time.
  20. tamadrummer88

    tamadrummer88 Active Member

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    Everyone here is gonna give you the advice of what they know best. What if you don't want a motor from the places they recommended? What if you want something different? In the end its your money and your car. Do whatever you want. Personally, i really don't see anything wrong with the FRPP crate motor. Its a good, decent turnkey crate motor for a pretty decent price, especially if you don't plan on running forced induction. Plus, the GT40 aluminum heads aren't really all that bad, it just won't be ideal for certain applications where you would need heads that flow better. Top it off with your current front accessories, explorer intake, 24#injectors, and mass air meter and you're good to go.

    But its your car, and your money in the end. For something like this, personally, i would research all avenues before spending any money.

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