High Water Temp on stang

I do have anti-freeze in there with water+water wetter. Like Rob said I am planning to switch do a cobra pulley for added cooling.

This didn't happen during idle only, it happened after a quick drive around the block after idling for about 30 min.


Then I think you are not getting enough flow...Measure Your pulley before I get there today...If it is larger than the one from the Green Stang, we can swap that one over and see if it helps before you spend $$ on a Cobra one.

RC
 
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Ill try the pulley first.

Here is the one we can take off for you to try...:

2314020WPP1.jpg
I think it's smaller than yours.

Here is mine now...the Cobra Pulley:

2314021WPP2.jpg


Let me know if the first one looks smaller than yours.

Thanks
RC
 
I ran the car today and it held the temp around 210. The fan was on from the moment I started the car. And it was on high, the thing almost sucked me in!

Based on what you are describing...the temp should NEVER have reached 210 from the car just sitting there, and Im sure the hood was open the whole time.
RC
 
If you have an IR thermometer, check inlet vs outlet temps at the radiator.

If there's a nice delta and your fan is working like crazy, consider that your t-stat sucks.

Good luck.
 
Update: I removed the t- stat because the car will be 98% strip. This has helped the temp greatly. However with the fan on high as soon as the car is started the temp continues to rise to 180 + at times. I do have an underdrive water pump pulley, how much does this really affect efficient cooling at idle and everyday driving?

I haven't been able to drive it long enough distance to check the temp drop with driving.
 
i would run a 180* stat at the minimum. if the fan is working properly the 160 was probobly the problem. for everyday driving you really dont want the coolant to be constantly flowing. its better to give it some time to cool down before sending it back through the system. i drive in the same weather with underdrives, stock radiator, a/c and have no problems keeping it cool. i dont think the underdrives are the problem.
 
Update: I removed the t- stat because the car will be 98% strip. This has helped the temp greatly. However with the fan on high as soon as the car is started the temp continues to rise to 180 + at times. I do have an underdrive water pump pulley, how much does this really affect efficient cooling at idle and everyday driving?
I haven't been able to drive it long enough distance to check the temp drop with driving.

You have seen where people have cooling issues or charing issues when they use underdrives...Im positive that a smaller pulley will help to some extent.
RC
 
I can't fit the smaller pulley , the belt doesn't put pressure on the pulley because of it's size.

How much does a bigger engine (358w) affect its cooling efficiency? I want to get this situation solved so I can drive longer distances and beginning tuning
 
There have been arguments made though that underdrives have helped with temp. problems as the slower moving coolant has more time to absorb and dissipate heat than a fast moving one with normal pulleys or no T-stat at all. I've never run any personal test on the subject, but I see some possibilities with it. I've run underdrive pulleys for years and never had a problem, even with my dart block setup. I wonder if your flow is restricted somewhere due to a blockage or something. Have you thought about flushing the entire system? The more water you run with water wetter the better as it helps water to absorb more heat than it does to coolant. Good luck!
 
I have not flushed the system as it's a brand new engine. I ran straight water with 1 bottle of water wetter and nothing seemed to change. I don't know what else to check. I know for sure the head gasket is not the problem.
 
That has got to suck having an issue like that and not knowing what is causing it. Ive run UD pulleys before on a stock radiator and never have over heating issues. I live in a cooler climate but even when it gets as hot/humid here as the southern states I didn't have any issues
 
yes it does suck! I believe, however I am not sure that I saw through the intake when I removed the t- stat housing, that the gasket for the lower intake had a piece blocking flow to one of the cooling pathways of the heads. I will remove the t- stat housing tomorrow and get back to you guys.
 
Two ideas - are the head gaskets both pointing the same way? The arrow on the gaskets should always face the front of the motor, which means that one of the gaskets is flipped upside-down. The other idea is your ECT sensor. Did you reuse the two temperature senders from an old engine, or are they brand new? If they're brand new, were they Motorcraft or another brand?