Highly Neglected '94 GT Convertible - Repair List?

Markos

New Member
Apr 9, 2006
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Arizona
All:


I'm going to begin work on a '94 GT convertible. It's been sitting, undriven and unmaintained for about 4-5 years. The body is in fine shape, as it's an AZ car. The convertible top looks good, but I don't know how it operates yet. I would like to get the vehicle back to factory condition, i.e. no major mods (unless they are cheaper than OEM parts). This vehicle is for a 16yo, so GO-FAST parts aren't on the priority list.

I plan to do some searching, but I thought I would throw out this repair list just in case folks feel like discussing. I'll be doing the work myself, with exception to the AC Charge, Alignment, and Transmission flush. This is an extremely *rough estimate on parts. I have no real idea on the cost.

So what am I forgetting. What should I leave out? Thanks!

1994 Mustang GT Maintenance $2,395.00

Brakes Total
Pads $60.00
Rotors $120.00
Bearings $60.00
DOT 4 Super Blue Fluid $24.00
Lines $60.00
Bearing Grease $8.00
Shop Press Bearings $32.00

Engine 5.0
Oil $15.00
Serp Belt $30.00
Spark Plugs $24.00
Air Filter $25.00
Plug Wire Set $40.00
Valve Cover Gaskets $30.00
PCV Valve $15.00
Oil Pan Gasket $30.00
Coolant Flush $50.00
Timing Belt/Chain $60.00
Timing Belt/Chain Tensioner $30.00

Transmission
Fluid Flush $100.00

Other
AC Charge $300.00
Fuel Pump $150.00
Fuel Filter $30.00
Tires $400.00
Alignment $60.00
Shocks $400.00
Battery $75.00
Differential Fluid $32.00
Miscellaneous Lube $40.00

Interior
Cleaning Supplies $35.00
Seat Track Repair $60.00
 
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Markos said:
1994 Mustang GT Maintenance $2,395.00

Brakes Total
Pads $60.00
Rotors $120.00
Bearings $60.00--94/95's have sealed bearings
DOT 4 Super Blue Fluid $24.00--if you are not doing performance driving use a dot 3 for half the price
Lines $60.00
Bearing Grease $8.00--see above
Shop Press Bearings $32.00--see above

Engine 5.0
Oil $15.00
Serp Belt $30.00--prolly a little more
Spark Plugs $24.00
Air Filter $25.00
Plug Wire Set $40.00
Valve Cover Gaskets $30.00
PCV Valve $15.00
Oil Pan Gasket $30.00--big job to do at home
Coolant Flush $50.00--you can do yourself for $10
Timing Belt/Chain $60.00--not needed unless its broken
Timing Belt/Chain Tensioner $30.00--we have chains that use no tensioner

Transmission
Fluid Flush $100.00

Other
AC Charge $300.00
Fuel Pump $150.00--minus $50, just get an aftermarket 255lph
Fuel Filter $30.00
Tires $400.00
Alignment $60.00
Shocks $400.00--you can get OE mach 1/bullit shocks for cheaper
Battery $75.00
Differential Fluid $32.00
Miscellaneous Lube $40.00

Interior
Cleaning Supplies $35.00
Seat Track Repair $60.00

looks like you got your work cut out for ya.

good luck and welcome
 
A few things....

1) Don't worry about brakes or rotors if you don't need them.
2) Don't worry about PCV valve, oil pan gasket or valve cover gaskets if you don't need them. Unless you buy FACTORY FORD valve cover gaskets, you'll get junk cork gaskets that will leak MORE than the ones that are currently on the car. I can almost guarantee that. Also, don't replace the timing chain - it's a pain in the ass to get to. And, the only thing that wears a chain out is driving the car. If the car has been sitting, chances are the timing chain is in pretty good condition still.
3) I wouldn't worry about the fuel pump either - heat kills those. If the car hasn't been running, I wouldn't worry about it. Unless of course, the current fuel pump isn't working...
4) And, if someone is charging you 300 bucks to charge the air conditioning, I'd run away very, very fast. That is a 15 minute job (maximum) and shouldn't cost more than $75 bucks.

Good luck!

Joe
 
I assume with your super blue fluid that you are draining the brake fluid, that's good.

And I take it the valve covers and oil pan are leaking oil. Otherwise, why are you replacing those. The VC gasket will be easy, but not the oil pan gasket.

What is a timing belt chain tensioner? Are you thinking of a mod motor? I don't think there is comparable thing on the 5.0.

Add a distributor cap to your tune up list.

Flush the radiator.

Run an engine buildup cleaner, like seafoam or comparable (or at least dry gas and injector cleaner).

If you want to get the car back to factory condition, you probably should factor in new carpet, floor mats, seat covers, and either plan on replacing or repainting any worn interior parts (50Resto.com has the good interior paint).

Leave some room in your budget for unexpected items, like a bad starter, alternator, water pump, window/vert motor, etc. Hard to predict when any of that will go, but eventually they will go.

All in all, I think you have a pretty comprehensive list there.
 
You can get an A/C charge for less than $300. I got mine on my old truck done for ~$100. I changed the entire system out and brought it to a guy that had a vaccum for it. He sucked the air out and filled it up. If you or someone you know has this type of vaccum you can do it.
 
Markos said:
Brakes Total
Pads $60.00
Rotors $120.00
Bearings $60.00
DOT 4 Super Blue Fluid $24.00
Lines $60.00
Bearing Grease $8.00
Shop Press Bearings $32.00

Engine 5.0
Oil $15.00-Wally world Motorcraft 10w30-$2.07 each Motorcraft FL1A oil filter-$3.8?
Serp Belt $30.00-AutoZone-$34.00
Spark Plugs $24.00-Autolite 25's at wally world about $15
Air Filter $25.00-$10.39 STP brand @AZ....
Plug Wire Set $40.00
Valve Cover Gaskets $30.00
PCV Valve $15.00
Oil Pan Gasket $30.00
Coolant Flush $50.00
Timing Belt/Chain $60.00
Timing Belt/Chain Tensioner $30.00

Transmission
Fluid Flush . $100.00

Other
AC Charge $300.00
Fuel Pump $150.00-jdsperformance.com 155lph $59+shipping (Walboro great brand highly recomended)
Fuel Filter $30.00-comes with pump kit above
Tires $400.00
Alignment $60.00
Shocks $400.00
Battery $75.00
Differential Fluid $32.00
Miscellaneous Lube $40.00

Interior
Cleaning Supplies $35.00
Seat Track Repair $60.00
Good luck....
 
Good info guys. Thanks for the help.

I'm new to mustangs, so I was unclear on the timing issue. I figured it was a chain but wasn't sure. If it had a belt, that's where the tensioner would come in. Well that cuts down on the labor quite a bit.

I can't beleive that I forgot about the distributor cap! I'm really unsure about the state of the engine. I'm basically putting together a worst case cost estimate. Thinks like the fuel pump were included for the worst-case scenario. Thanks fo rthe update on the prices...

I also didn't factor in new U-Joints for the drive-shaft. I don't know if that's an issue or not. I don't think the car was doing any hard launches or anything.

I need to search around for problem electronics. MAF? Throttle Positioning Sensor? Crank Positioning Sensor? Neutral Safety Switch? I dont' even know if the mustang has these parts. This is all preliminary. Thanks for the heads up though. I promise to Search.
 
Here's an issue that is very common on the 94/95 5.0 the Harmonic balancer loves to take a crap on us. OEM replacement are junk you will have to go performance part on this one. Since this is for your kid there is no need for a high priced SFI balancer. Profesional Products makes a great Non SFI balancer balancer and a good price to go along with it http://mustang.c-f-m.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=353 *You need to get the spacer for it as well $14.95 just under the balancer from above 8000/9000 series*
**Perfect example of what happens to our balancers http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?p=6063380#post6063380
 
+1 on the balancer.

And your're right that you shouldn't need to do anything with the driveshaft (unless you are getting vibration). Since the car is stock, it's a certain that it didn't do any hard launches. :D
 
if its been sitting for that long I would prime the motor over with a drill (in reverse) and a prime tool. You will have to pull the dizzy. but its not that hard if you take your time and there is plenty of help here for that.

Also it might be a good idea to put like a spoon full of oil down the spark plug hole and turn the motor over by hand to get some oil to the cyl. and rings to help free it up and avoid. a no oil problem on that.

yet another good idea might be putting together a bullit/mach1 spring/shock/strut replacement. You can find good prices on stock take offs for the bullit/mach springs and new shocks/struts are not too bad on price at like 35$ea. for rear shocks and like 75$ for struts ea. At least it will ride nice and new as well.
 
Markos said:
This vehicle is for a 16yo. . .
. . .I'll be doing the work myself. . .
I am assuming that this car is going to someone that you know (possibly your kid).

Not only would this make for a good father/son or father/daughter project. The 16y/o would benefit greatly from having a hand in maintainence and repair work. It would certainly help to reduce the operating costs (and your frustration) if they could do work themselves.
 
Thanks for the heads up on the balancer. Why to they insist on sticking rubber 'bushings' on engine pulleys. I used JB Weld on my daily driver for a very similar issue. It worked, but the pulley was probably out of balance. It's the only time I've ever used JB Weld. Probably the last...

As much as I would love to share some knowledge on this project, it just won't happen. The car is for my cousin. She just go her learners permit. Nobody in their family knows anything about cars, and they beat the piss out of their vehicles, until they are basically worthless. Anyway, I'll show her how to change a tire and what not, and hope that she can stay interested during the process.


Oh yeah, thanks for reminding me to turn it over by hand first. I probably would have just cranked it with the starter. I'll be sure to lube up the cylinder walls first as well. Once I get going on this thing, I'll post some pics.

Originally posted by SlwRde2:
Welcome to Stangnet. I agree with all that's been said above. Good luck.

Forgot to add that you may want to pick up a Chilton's guide.

Wow founding member. :) Is that like a founding father? What's up big brother?
 
Some of those prices look a little high, like $30 for a fuel filter. I'm guessing you plan to have all this work done at a garage? If it's for a 16 year old get a haynes manual and let him/her do some of the work. It'll save money and give them more of an appreciation for the car.