Hot starts...

[Peg8687]

I've had this problem ever since i got it out of storage. It starts fine when the car is cold. But once its been running a while up to operating temps when u shut it off...it starts slow like the batt is weak or wont start at all but once it hits the end of its trying to start and your still holding the key all the lights on the dash die...just turns over once maybe 2-3 times but not fast enough for it to pop off....

Ive completely changed everything from the batt ground all the way to the starter in the starting wiring cycle. Batt ground, battery, positive batt cable, starter solinoid, coil, starter cable, engine ground, and starter. not avail.

I have a Crane Frieball igntioin and i found the ground was loose and thought that might be the problem...so when it was cold i unhooked the ground and tried to start it. Just turned over fine, didnt fire, as assumed. Hooked it back up drove around got it hot, came home shut it down adn tired to start it....2-3 slow turnover and it popped off. Shut if off again and tried to start it 2 turn overs and it was dead. Unhooked the ground from the igntion box and tried it still turned over slow 2-3 times, so i guess that rules the igntion box out too w/o throwing stupid money at parts and replacing it...

any ideas? thanks

also a little side note that might have something to do with it not sure...when i was slam gears racing it would cut out when he slammed the gear and when u left off the gas it could cut back on....but it hasnt done it recently its been hit and miss and hasnt done it for a while...might ahve been the loose ignition ground...

 

[jrichker]

Here's a checklist:

Since some of the tests will bypass the safety interlocks, make sure that the car is in neutral and the parking brake is set. Becoming a pancake isn’t part of the repair process…

Check battery, terminal connections, ground, starter relay switch (also known as solenoid) and starter in that order. Battery cables with the replacement ends that clamp on the cable with 2 bolts are a know problem source.

A voltmeter is handy if you are familiar with how to use it to find bad connections. Measure the voltage drop across a connection: more than .5 volts across a connection indicates a problem.
See http://www.fluke.com/application_notes/automotive/circuit.asp?AGID=1&SID=103 for help

1.) Will the car start if it is jumped? Then clean battery terminals and check battery.

2.) Check the battery to engine block ground, and the ground behind the engine to the firewall.

3.) Jump the big terminals on the starter relay next to the battery with a screwdriver - watch out for the sparks! If the engine cranks, the starter and power wiring is good. The starter relay is also known as a starter solenoid.

4.) Then pull the small push on connector (red wire) off the starter relay (Looks like it is stuck on a screw). Then jump between the screw and the terminal that is connected to the battery. If it starts, the relay is good and your problem is in the rest of the circuit.

5.) Remember to check the ignition switch, neutral safety switch on auto trans and the clutch safety switch on manual trans cars. If they are good, then you have wiring problems.
Typical start circuit...

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss and Stang&2birds.

See http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195963.gif for 88-90 year cars .OR see http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195964.gif for 91-93 year cars. See http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1d/db/3c/0900823d801ddb3c.jsp for 94-95 model cars.

6.) The starter may be hung, loosen up the bolts that hold it on, and give it a good whack with a big hammer. Tighten up the bolts and try again.

7.) If that doesn't work, use a jumper cable from the positive lead on the battery direct to the starter post where the big wire from the relay connects. If it cranks then, it is the power wire from the relay gone bad. This will be hard to do, since there isn't much room to do it.

8.) Pull the starter and take it to Autozone or Pep Boys and have them test it. Starter fails test, then replace it. If you got this far, the starter is probably bad.

 

[Peg8687]

Thanks for the info. I'll try the fluke tests tomorrow. The one with the safty switchs doesnt really concern me as when i did my 5sp swap i disco/ed all those switches. And ive gone through quite a few of the other steps and elimated those. But i'll try to find the draw tomorrow and repost!