how can i get 600-650 rwhp on this car??

You will be able to tell the difference between 230RWHP and 250RWHP, so the jump to over 300 will knock your socks off. Lets put it this way. My 01GT I had before I sold it dynoed at 257RWHP/297RWTQ with that and gears, I was able to punch it from a roll and blow my tires off. That lowered my times from low 14's stock to 13.11. That is a HUGE difference. I think if you had over 400RWHP, it would be like driving a crotch rocket compared to a dirt bike. You would kill yourself if you tried to drive your car the same way as if you only have 230RWHP. It is something you will have to get used to. Then when 400RWHP is not enough, drop down in pulley size and bump up the boost until it knocks your socks off. Then when you get used to that, drop again till you max out your blower/turbo and have to get a bigger one.
 
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not tring to put my new car down or nothing but i owned a 2001 mustang v6 with no mods im guessing about 160rwhp and to tell you my opinion i really can't tell a big diffrence between my old v6 and my new v8 gt i mean yes their is a little more pull along with 2 more cylinders and better heads and an extra tail pipe but besides that i really didn't notice much diffrence i can go 140mph now before in the v6 i could only go 115mph thats about it. and let see that is a 70 rwhp diffrence i really cant tell much diffrence in that 70 hp. thats why i feel 400 will not be enough but like i said earlier i wount be for sure till i actually drive 400 rwhp car.
 
micool said:
Some valid points but some inaccuracies as well. Tons of us making well over 400 rwhp on stock motors. 437 rwhp/404 rwtq for me. Not to say that it won't blow up any day but it can with 350 rwhp too. I am an advocate of intercoolers but when I went from a procharger (intercooled obviously) to a vortech (non ic) my inlet temps didn't increase at all so yes intercoolers are fine but not exactly necessary at 400 rwhp imo. Detonation is an ugly thing but with a good tune you can just about get rid of it. Summer or winter doesn't matter. As a matter of fact in the winter as the air gets cooler obviously the boost pressure will increase making the possibility of popping a motor even greater. The key is the tune.

I know there are alot of people making 400+ on their cars, but IMO they are ticking time bombs. How much time you have on the clock depend on
1. How safe the tune is
2. How you drive it
Comparing the inlet temps of a intercooled Procharger and non intercooled Vortech are like comparing apples and oranges ( and I will tell you why ). Prochargers are such crappy superchargers, that they HAVE to sell them with a intercooler. Vortechs are much more efficient. Now, if you compared a non intercooled Procharger and a non intercooled Vortech's temps I think you would see the difference. Same thing goes to a lesser extent if both were intercooled. Also, if it is hot out side, lets say 90+ degrees and humidy like there is in FL, and the blower is spinning and creating temps above 180 degrees, dont you think that the temps are going to be higher than if the outside temp is only 60 degrees? I think that variance in temp would be more destructive than an extra .5-1lb of boost from colder weather. FL does not get much colder than 60 in the winter.
 
thanks

thank you all for the replies but i guess im just a big power freak cause 230 rwhp seems small and tiny to me. somedays i feel like im driving a honda even tho i know its a big powerfull v8 mustang gt. off subject(i have never driven a honda). but most days i feel as tho my car is not fast at all. im happy that i got a car that can be modified to go well past its factory rwhp numbers tho. that is why i cant wait to start my modifing in january i plan on getting my blower and full exhaust and headers done hopefully that will make me a little happier.
 
snoopy98 said:
not tring to put my new car down or nothing but i owned a 2001 mustang v6 with no mods im guessing about 160rwhp and to tell you my opinion i really can't tell a big diffrence between my old v6 and my new v8 gt i mean yes their is a little more pull along with 2 more cylinders and better heads and an extra tail pipe but besides that i really didn't notice much diffrence i can go 140mph now before in the v6 i could only go 115mph thats about it. and let see that is a 70 rwhp diffrence i really cant tell much diffrence in that 70 hp. thats why i feel 400 will not be enough but like i said earlier i wount be for sure till i actually drive 400 rwhp car.

You have to drive the cars side by side to tell the difference. You will see if you punch it from a roll and you have the same gears, your GT will pull like crazy on that V6. Like someone said earlier. If you cant tell the difference between a V6 and V8, then you should be driving something else. Maybe you would not be able to tell a difference between a V8 and V10? Maybe your buttometer needs to be recalibrated. :rlaugh:
 
GotMustangs said:
If you've never driven anything with over 230rwhp and make the jump to 600+rwhp, you will die. Also, if you end up with "only" 400rwhp and can't tell the difference over stock, you need to be a fighter pilot, because no car will be good enough. Just get a blower and exhaust. Start there and you will not regret it, except for all of the speeding tickets. :D

Agreed, the difference between my bullitt and my dad's stock 03 cobra vert is unreal... and to think he is probably puttin down around 360rwhp and weighs in about 300lbs heavier than me. BIG difference between 230rwhp and 400rwhp!
 
Dont count out the KB blower and the turbos man. Again, if you have more low end tq, but the same HP, the car with the more low end tq will "feel faster". That is what you would get with KB blower, and to a lesser extent, a turbo. Actually not just low end TQ, but TQ in general. The guy who has the Vortech and is pushing 430RWHP, he only has 400+tq, however if he had a turbo, he would probably be pushing 450-500RWTQ. TQ is what makes you "feel" fast.
 
micool said:
I won't argue with you about efficiency of the blowers bc that's exactly why I went to vortech when my procharger blew a seal. It's 48 degrees at my home in FL today. High 30s tonight. That's cold.

I guess it depends on what part of FL you are in. I dont think that cold of weather is typical though right? I should have said 50 degrees. Sure the lows at night might dip into the low 40 typically, but I am talking about it being 21 degrees like it is here in CO today.
 
KickerStang said:
I guess it depends on what part of FL you are in. I dont think that cold of weather is typical though right? I should have said 50 degrees. Sure the lows at night might dip into the low 40 typically, but I am talking about it being 21 degrees like it is here in CO today.
True. I'm in nw florida at pensacola beach but we normally see 30s and 40s from december-february.
 
i say start setting up for serious power, built motor and suspension my friend. and i've been in everything from ferrari's to vipers to a 600 hp porsche gt2. trust me it's a very very big difference from a stock mustang. right now i'm waiting to hear on my engine, if i have to buy a new one i'm probably buying a built one and eventually going with twin turbos.
 
snoopy98 said:
should i order a new intake for my car???? and i dont mean cold air intake i mean intake that sits on top of your engine??? im thinking about a bullit intake along with bbk long tube headers and o/r x pipe with 40 series flowmaster mufflers and stock tips.

NO. Why spend $1300+ for a few HP/TQ? Spend that $1500 on a set of internals and high comp. pistons and it would give you more HP/TQ than the bullit intake. The only thing the bullit intake is decent for is when you are blown. As far as the headers go, LOOK INTO A TURBO KIT! If you get a turbo kit, the headers will come with it. O/R pipe and a catback would be a better idea. Definately worth the money. The x pipes are more expensive than h pipes though and they make almost EQUAL HP. In fact I have seen a dyno test between a h pipe and x pipe and the h pipe made MORE power than the x pipe. But that was on a blown car too.
 
snoopy98 said:
wount i free up like 25 hp from just the mods that i listed above.????

You would probably free up about 30+RWHP by doing these mods

1. LT's
2. O/R pipe
3. Catback
4. Underdrive Pulleys
5. Timing Adjuster

In fact you dont even need the headers, but the headers will give you a better power band.

All I had done was o/r x pipe, catback, pullies, chip, and K&N for power mods and I dynoed at 257RWHP/297RWTQ.

I also know guys who have a mass air meter, throttle body, and headers and only make about 3-5HP more than me. I think the mods I have are the most bang for the buck mods. But pullies will need to be taken back off when/if you get a s/c.