How do you install front spring???

Hey man. DO IT MY WAY!!!!!!. This fall i put my M-2300-k brake kit on and i put Eibach lowering springs and steering rack bushings and caster/camber plates on my 1991 Fox body. I tryed all the different spring compressors and everything there is, nothing worked. I went to FORD and asked and found out nothing. Its actually really easy. First i used a spring compressor and just compressed the spring. Then you go out and buy about 20 hose clamps or so. You put about 10 hose clamps on the spring when its compressed. THen you take the spring compressors off. The hose clamps will hold no problem. TRUST ME, people will say no no it wont. Im not bull****ting you. I just wouldn't drop it. You dont have to be scared to hold on to it. It will hold easy. CHeck out my cardomain site. THen just slide the spring in and jack up the control arm. And your done. All you gotta do is take a tin snips (pretty much a wire cutter) and snip off the host clamps, its really easy. And you dont have to worry about wear you put the hose clamps because you can cut off the hose clamps once the spring is installed on the car anywhere. Its so easy i about **** myself when i did it. I pissed around for 3 days trying to get the springs in and after i figured out the hose clamp idea it went right in. Maybe 10 mins max for both sides. I also had to compress the rear springs and put hose clamps on. But only a little bit for the rear. Any other questions just leave a message on my cardomain site. Let me know how it goes. Im in the middle of doing a 6G alternator upgrade. Like the 3G but only better! Good luck. heres my site http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2319969
 
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Hey, i was just reading the other ones to see if anybody did what i did. Dont waste $250.00 for the dumb spring compressor. Just get any compressor and maybe borrow one. Then just compress the spring down, Install the hose clamps and take the compressor off, and slide your spring in the control arm. It jacks right up. NO PROBLEMS. it will hold and everything.

I really hope you didn't buy them yet. Because i almost bought that stupid spring compressor but instead saved it by buying the hose clamps and doing it for little or no cost and ten millions times easyer installation. Plus i bought a BBk Cold air intake with it. haha. and still have some money.
 
You can try something I did before I purchased my Spring Compressor, just get an ordinary internal spring compressor and take it down to where you want it and see if you can find a place that deals with Springs and get them to put a Band on them, once you get them in place then all you need to do is cut the bands off.
 
Hey, i was just reading the other ones to see if anybody did what i did. Dont waste $250.00 for the dumb spring compressor. Just get any compressor and maybe borrow one. Then just compress the spring down, Install the hose clamps and take the compressor off, and slide your spring in the control arm. It jacks right up. NO PROBLEMS. it will hold and everything.

I really hope you didn't buy them yet. Because i almost bought that stupid spring compressor but instead saved it by buying the hose clamps and doing it for little or no cost and ten millions times easyer installation. Plus i bought a BBk Cold air intake with it. haha. and still have some money.

Nah I didn't buy anything yet. After work I'm going to try Autozone to see if they have the correct internal spring compressor, I guess that would be the best option.

If that doesn't work out it sounds like I have a few things to try. I'll probably try the opposite way (MFE I guess) method first.

Roland69 -- Where is this shop?
 
Like Hissin & others said, the only way to do it without getting yourself killed is to reconnect the shock bolt and disconnect the 2 kmember bolts :nice:

Been there, done that. Took me 2 days to figure that out :rlaugh:
 
Like Hissin & others said, the only way to do it without getting yourself killed is to reconnect the shock bolt and disconnect the 2 kmember bolts :nice:

Been there, done that. Took me 2 days to figure that out :rlaugh:

You're fast, it took me 3. :bang: I may have invented some new words in the process.

I've heard that hose-clamp method before, but that scares the crap out of me.

Just unbolt the k-member bolts, and live to see another day.

Jeff
 
Dont waste your money on a spring compressor, just borrow a friends and compress the spring on a bench, install the hose clamps and take off the compressor and put the spring in the control arm. Thats it.
 
I was compressing a set of springs one time with a spring compressor and it was so tight the bottom blew off the compressor, ripped half the threads off the rod. It then bounced off the floor and smashed against the bottom of my car leaving a dent along with a small rip/hole in the floorpan.

Scared the living **** out of me AFTER I realized what happened. It blew apart so fast I didn't even see it happen.

Thankfully I have coil overs now and don't have to worry about those god damn things anymore :D
 
The absolute main thing is safety. PERIOD! If it is shady, don't do it. I honestly wouldn't recommend anything to anyone that could cause some serious injury. I have seen some pretty gross stuff over the years at the plant by people doing things by cutting corners or trying to save time or money. Its just not worth it. The laws of probability are against you.
 
Finally got this completed yesterday. The method that ended up working was the "MFE"/Backwards method.

This was still no walk in the park though, took about 2-3 hours. Most of that was the driver side trying to beat and tweak the control arm into place. This method did feel totally safe compared to the way I was trying before.

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i wouldnt take the control arm out of the k-member, it fits pretty tight with the poly bushings and no spring. i use the wall mounted spring compressor on mine, except i used coat hangers instead of hose clamps. i did it with the car on a lift and a jack stand under the arm, although you could do it with jack stands under the frame and a floor jack under the arm. the important thing to remember is, you still need to use a pry bar, even though the spring is compressed and held.
 
how do i get the old ones out? i had my car jacked up and ready to go but im worried about unbolting the control arm with the spring compressed in there. can i just wrap a chain around it and the spindle and let it down with a floor jack while the cars on jackstands?
 
READ THIS ONE!!! Compress each spring with a spring compressor and then put about 10 hose clamps on it. Take out the compressors and just slide the spring in and jack it up. WORKS ****ING MINT!!!!!!!! THen just cut the hose clamps off and your done. The hose clamps hold it trust me. Thats how i put my eibachs in!
 
yea thats my question too. can i take the spring out of the car using the method above? unbolting the a-arm at the k-member?

I suppose you could get them out that way. Just put a jack under it before you unbolt the a-arm (obviously), make sure your jack is NOT ON WHEELS (put a couple 2x4's under it), unbolt the a-arm, and then slowly let the jack down. If it's on its wheels, it will probably shoot out at this point, so be carefull.

I've never actually done it that way.

If I recall, I disconnected the spindle from the a-arm and sway bar, and lowered it down as far as it would go. The a-arm was still attached to the k-member. When it was as far down as it could go, the spring wasn't quite decompressed but it was close. Since I was quite tired and frustrated at this point, I gave it a gentle kick and it popped right out. It was kinda scary though.

Good luck, front springs aren't fun.

Jeff
 
What the heck is going on in here. Never once have i had a problem with front springs. I have done the job twice going with diff springs. After removing the struts the arm lowered and then i kicked the springs in with little or no help. Well I did have some guidance with a crow bar
 
With tall springs, disconnecting the suspension at the strut doesnt always work too hot.

I am one who does the method of removing the LCA-to-K-member bolts and letting the LCA pivot on the strut. This method can work very well if you have a good, big floor jack. It takes me ~15 minutes a corner this way (the hardest part is reattaching the end link).
 
what everyone forgets to mention about removing the control arm bolts is, to get the front bolts out, requires removing the steering rack from the k-member. i had pulled mine out some but it still wasnt enough. had to unhook the steering shaft.