I've ran drag radials and full slicks on my 99 Gt with 4:10 gears. I haven't blownn my rear end yet. I guess it all depends on the driver and how aggressive u get. I could get the DR's to hook on the street better than they do at the track, and even then they dont hook the best. I ran slicks once at the track and that seems like it could do some major damage but it's all about how crazy u wanna get. The DR's were 17" nittos and they dont hook real well.....i had better time on the street than at the track. The 15/8/10.5 slicks now thats a ride!
How many people have broken their stock rears on DR's?
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JonJon
Founding Member
just some guy said:yup, around a 5k launch, ...snap crackle and boom...bye bye axle...
slipping will save things but the only way to do better tha a 1.8 60' is to let it go...
Is it possible to cut lower than 1.8 60' by slipping DR's? I -don't- want to dump the clutch after I get DR's (for fear of breaking stuff) but if 1.8 is as low as you can go... 
What about other people's experiences? Can you cut a lower 60' than 1.8 by slipping? I cut a 1.9s 60' on 225/55 snow tires by slipping.
you can drive...you are one of the few that can pull 1.7s on nitto drags...ac1122 said:
cuz everyone thinks they dont hook, so they dont do a big burnout and then they slip the clutch and pull mid 1.8s and say nittos dont hook...
jon, i do not believe it is possible to slip it and pull a 1.7X, you just do not have enough forward momentum, im sure some people do it, but they probably have a ton of power, or they are slipping it so fast it is equal to dumping it anyway
Slider
Founding Member
Pootiestang said:
A new 31 spline rear will require at a minimum:
1) Gears -> $150 (you are in there you might as well do it)
2) HD Differential -> $190 (FMS) to $375 (Eaton)
3) Axles -> $250 (Superior)
4) ABS sensor wheels -> $40
5) Install ->$150 to $300
You could also add, but not 100% needed:
6) Differential Cover -> $150
7) Aluminum Driveshaft -> $150
8) Driveshaft loop -> $50
9) Install kit with all new bearings and seals -> $80
10) 3" racing studs -> $60
Other things that might need attention or upgraded:
11) Weld up torque boxes and axle tubes -> $25 to $100
12) New upper and lower control arms -> $250 to $500
Since I bent my axle I have decided to do all 12
Might as go all the way, and not waste extra time and money later to do it.Does that help?
Dallasgt01
New Member
Slider said:A new 31 spline rear will require at a minimum:
1) Gears -> $150 (you are in there you might as well do it)
2) HD Differential -> $190 (FMS) to $375 (Eaton)
3) Axles -> $250 (Superior)
4) ABS sensor wheels -> $40
5) Install ->$150 to $300
You could also add, but not 100% needed:
6) Differential Cover -> $150
7) Aluminum Driveshaft -> $150
8) Driveshaft loop -> $50
9) Install kit with all new bearings and seals -> $80
10) 3" racing studs -> $60
Other things that might need attention or upgraded:
11) Weld up torque boxes and axle tubes -> $25 to $100
12) New upper and lower control arms -> $250 to $500
Since I bent my axle I have decided to do all 12
Does that help?
Awsome! Thanks for the information, that should be a great help! I already have 4.10s so thats a bit off the price, but I might as well get all the stuff before I have it installed. Where exactly are the torque boxes on a Mustang? Id love to get them enforced hehe but I dunno where they are.
Slider
Founding Member
Pootiestang said:
They are the brackets that the control arms bolt to. They are only spot welded, and with enough abuse they can start to break away from the car. The axle pretty much has to be removed to do the top ones, and the lower control arms need to be moved out of the way for the lower ones. That is why I said you might as well do all this stuff at once. I have some pics at home. If I get time I will post them.
Just remember....drag radials are not as forgiving as slicks. The sidewalls are stiff as hell to make them driveable on the street. My buddy broke an Auburn pro 31 spline diff on drag radials. But he was also laying down @ 400 HP and was doing a 4500 rpm launch. He had Motorsport axles and girdle. IMO the best thing to do is get a set of cheap v6 wheels and a set of slicks. Bolt them on at the track and you're good to go.
StangLou
Active Member
One thing people dont think of is that you dont always have to go to 31 spline axles. They make 28 splines that are hardened and will take all the abuse you want to throw at it with dr's . They arent good for up to as many hp as 31 splines are, but they will do the job for most strong street setups 
. They arent good for up to as many hp as 31 splines are, but they will do the job for most strong street setups 
Dreams2Reality
Founding Member
Well after reading all this it looks like i'm going to have to invest in a couple more things before i get 10.5 bullitt rims and the 315/35/17 nittos to match.
Well now that i'm officially depressed, i'd like to say thanks for all the info guys
Well now that i'm officially depressed, i'd like to say thanks for all the info guys
JonJon
Founding Member
Is there compelling reason to get 28 instead of 31? Like hundreds of $?StangLou said:One thing people dont think of is that you dont always have to go to 31 spline axles. They make 28 splines that are hardened and will take all the abuse you want to throw at it with dr's
my spider gears broke and carrier pin shot out taking down my ring and pinion after about 100+ 1.7x 60's and 50+ 1.8 60's. All 4000-5500rpm launches. I plan to a build up with 4.30s/31 splines before too long. The stock stuff is strong, unless you are really going to beat the **** out of it(like I did/will do), you should be fine. The funny thing is mine finally broke when I hit third gear. I truly abuse my car like its someone elses though
JonJon said:Is there compelling reason to get 28 instead of 31? Like hundreds of $?
Yes it is alot cheaper to run 28 spline because you don't have to convert your carrier over. You can just buy the axles and throw them in. Factor in the cost of ther axles AND the carrier(by carrier i mean everything inside the pumpkin). It'a about 1/3 the price of a 31 spline swapover.
JonJon
Founding Member
Slider
Founding Member
Red2000GT said:
Yeah, that is an option, but if you are serious about drag racing the diff will give out. I had the one wheel spin thing which required me to repack the clutches. That is probably the biggest problem with the stock diff. Also, as stated above the spider gears can let go. It all depends on what you want to do with your car. I race my car hard, so if I am going to upgrade the rear I am going to do it right the first time.
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