-=How much to machine a block???=-

EL1NOR

Member
Apr 14, 2003
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16
Hampstead, NH
How much would it cost to take a bare-bones 351W block to a machine shop and have them bore it .030 over and clearance it for a 4.000" stroker crank, along with the typical "dip it and clean it" and "surface it" routine I suppose they need to do...???

I'm trying to balance the budget for my little 408W stroker project and would like all the help I can get.

Thanks to anyone who has experience or is willing to help,
-Tim
 
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That's nice and all SD, but I was looking for an answer from someone who has already paid to have it done to their engine. be it a 289, etc... just to get an idea as to if it's like $200... $800... $1,500...

-Tim
 
EL1NOR said:
That's nice and all SD, but I was looking for an answer from someone who has already paid to have it done to their engine. be it a 289, etc... just to get an idea as to if it's like $200... $800... $1,500...

-Tim

I don't mean to degrade the board but there is a TREMENDOUS variation of expertise here AND there are many variables in such work. Anyone doing the work must be skilled and have the right equipment. Hourly labor rates can easily be in the $75/hour range. I can see it in the $1K area.
 
EL1NOR said:
How much would it cost to take a bare-bones 351W block to a machine shop and have them bore it .030 over and clearance it for a 4.000" stroker crank, along with the typical "dip it and clean it" and "surface it" routine I suppose they need to do...???

I'm trying to balance the budget for my little 408W stroker project and would like all the help I can get.

Thanks to anyone who has experience or is willing to help,
-Tim

Everyshop is different but here is what I just recently paid at my local shop in Bel AIr, MD

Tear down and clean block: $85
Bore to .030 : $18 a hole


As for making the detailed mods to the block to make the stroker crank fit you are looking at a non-standard job so hourly shop fees will be assessed based on how long it takes them to do it. And it all honesty it would prob be cheaper long run to buy a crank designed to go into the block without clearancing needed. When it was all said and done I dropped $2500 at the machine shop, however 1300 of that ended up being parts and gaskets so the labor bill was 1200. I told them I wanted to spend exactly 500 in labor on the heads, so then we can assume my total bill was $700 in total labor to do the following:

Tear down block
Dip everything
Crack check everything
Paint block
Measure and Turn crank
Measure rods
Clearance rods
Press new pistons to rods
Bore block
Drill and tap block for 4 bolt caps
line hone block
assemble and balance rotating assembly
assemble short block + mount heads. Everything else I did.

Notice how the block needed no clearancing? That's because the stroker crank I used was machined to fit into my 351c block without needed to do anything to the block. I needed it turned cause I was re-using it after the first motor it was in blew up. I don't know if this information will help you, since every shop charges different fees....AND DOES VARYING QUALITY OF WORK.
 
Great! thanks for the help DodgeStang! I won't need them to rebuild the shortblock or even disassemble my engine so now I know I shouldn't expect a $1,000 tab to bore it and clearance it. Either way I'll call around but I just wanted to have a clue as to whether or not I was gonna get slammed with a major bill.

Thanks,
-Tim
 
I just got home and found my receipts from having my engine done. It was built in Dec. of '99, and here's the breakdown:
Clean and cook block - 75.00
Bore block .030 - 96.00
resurface heads - 40.00
Turn crank .010 - 100.00
Cam bearings and freeze plugs - 50.00
Balance complete rotating assy - 150.00
Dis-assemble and assemble whole motor - 400.00

Total bill for all machine work including new bearings, new valves, valve job, modify block for gear drive and some other small items was 1792.71
This was all done in Pennsylvania by a guy who builds motors for a couple of NASCAR north drivers.

On top of that, add:
Custom Canton 7 qt. oil pan and oil pump/pickup - 495.00
Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake, cam, and carb - 550.00
Valve springs, retainers and lock kit - 135.00
Accudrive gear drive - 200.00
Aluminum water pump - 140.00
Mallory Distributer - 200.00
'69 351W heads - 50.00
That totals roughly 3500.00 for the complete motor! (I could have bought a crate motor for less) :shrug:
 
Candy-A-Mach1 and KingMidas, THANK YOU VERY MUCH for your help!

I was researching Golen's site and I noticed that their 408W requires Race Fuel.... Is it even possible to build a 408W without it requiring race fuel?? I want to have a street beast that can still get gas at a GAS STATION.... Is it possible to use 91 and just add an octane booster..? Even though octane boosters suck.


-Tim
 
You don't need a 408 to be king of the hill... a well built 347 stroker will get you respect from just about anybody...

The way to save money on engines is in having a realistic expectation of what you want it to do. There's not much gain in dropping some war dog engine that breaks the tranny, differential, or axles... just have a good vision of the big picture.
 
See that's one thing that still confuses me. The compression ratio. If it goes above 10:1 I have to use race fuel? That blows because there aren't any places nearby that have it. Also, what defines the actual compression ratio?

I went to that Golen Engine Services site and they have a 408W listed @ 600hp and requiring race fuel. It says the cylinder head stats and they say that the combustion chamber is 58cc. Meanwhile on ebay there's someone selling a 427W shortblock for $1,500 that states your compression ratio is 10.3:1 if you have a 62cc combustion chamber rating.

So I'm assuming that I can build a stroker shortblock easily with the 408W kits that many places sell but I'll only need to worry about my compression ratio when I'm buying my heads?? What about the whole "Dished Pistons" scenario, etc...

Damnit I'm lost now,
-Tim

450 to 600hp is around what I'm looking for. I'm assuming a 408W with Victor Jr.'s can easily do the trick but I want it to run on PUMP GAS. Any help?