How-To: "Build an Engine" Tutorial.

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by ozanracing, Mar 1, 2007.


  1. poneypower89

    poneypower89 Now everyone in the world will know I wanna bang t

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    Ahh.. that would make perfect sense.. .because we did it that way for a 67 Caprice 427, a 72 351 Torino, and a 460 powered race car... all flat tappets.


    so whats the protocol for a roller? :shrug:
    #21
  2. ozanracing

    ozanracing New Member

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    Well what I like to do is Start her up for the first time by priming the oil system, then Immediatly dropping in the distributer. Leave the coil wire off and crank it over for 5-10 sec. then connect the coil-to-cap wire and start it up. Once it fires set the timing and fuel pressure. let it idle and rev it up and down for a couple of minutes. Then go out and drive it. Vary the load (gears) and rpm. Don't rev it up too high. (5000+)
    The rings seat very qucikly, withen the first few minutes of initial startup. After that build rpms up to the engine's peak power points (eg: go run it through the gears)
    Then just drive it normally.
    If it's a race car, race it.
    If it's a street car drive it like you regularly would.
    Street/strip (well you get the idea)
    Letting it coast in gear (speed up to 4000rpm in 2nd then take your foot off and let the engine brake slow the dar down) helps seat rings.
    #22
  3. Daggar

    Daggar New Member

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    Nicely done ozan! :nice:

    I've added your thread to the Useful Technical Index Thread!
    #23
  4. ozanracing

    ozanracing New Member

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    Thank you Daggar.
    It looked nice as a sticky too :cheers:
    #24
  5. Daggar

    Daggar New Member

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    Yes, I know. It's just how we manage stickies in this forum so that we don't have a list as long as your arm. Very easy reference though, so everyone can easily find it and continue to add to your thread.

    It's up to you old-heads to refer the newbs to the index when it contains something that they are creating a new thread for.

    Once a again though... very nice thread. One question though... I saw where it said that you used RTV for your freeze plugs and other caps.. Do you prefer that to the freez plug sealant that hardens when it cures?

    Also...

    I didn't see sealant of any kind on your cam plug. Is that also a personal preference?
    #25
  6. 5spd GT

    5spd GT "the 5.0 owns all" Founding Member

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    Yeah, that would make sense:)

    There is not break-in for a hydraulic roller cam, the only thing I have done is clean the cam off real good before applying any lube, like cam lube.

    My second time I installed the cam in my car, I just put engine oil on it. No problems at all.
    #26
  7. ozanracing

    ozanracing New Member

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    Yeah I like the regular rtv that hardens, but is still 'soft' when dry. I never use sealant on the cam plug, on reason is because the cup is thicker and there is more flange seat area than normal plugs, I do like to put 3 GOOD steaks in the cam plug though.

    I really like the useful tech. thread index, good idea!:nice:
    #27
  8. hipochevys

    hipochevys New Member

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    boy you will keep permatex silicone division in business with all that you use. i would change that oil filter in about 2 miuntes of running. do you know how bad that is if you get any of that in you oil galleys? i can't tell you how many engines i have seen fail b/c that stuff gets caught in a head gasket of oil galley. have you ever heard of using indian head sealer and ARP thread sealer? not to make fun of you for a great article but i think you might want to ease up on the sealer? you even put it on the valve cover gaskets. if you use good valve cover gaskets(rubber ver steel) they do not need sealer. also if you use the one piece oil pan seal you only need a few dabs in each corner of the pan. i also hope that you used the correct formula the compensate for the extension on your torque wrench. ford are know to blow head gaskets and you need to make sure that you have ample clamping force and good gaskets (Cometic MLS/Fel-Pro MLS/Titan Cooper etc...)did you retorqe your head bolts after your first heat soak? i hope that you deck was flat. sorry i don't mean to pick at you i just would hate to see someone spend good money after bad for a few extra dollars. oh and if i can ad one more thing if you are running a auto trans you want to set the crank in the rear-ward setting when setting the thrust bearing and forward in a stick. P.S. you know that you put the pasti-gauge strip on incorrectly(it should go on from front to back not side to side)to correctly measure with plasti-gauge you need to lay the strip the other way on the journel. this way you are to take up the clearance evenly and get a more accurate reading and take the smallest reading and largest reading if any and get you average clearance. the strip should be evenly crushed. sorry guy just tring to help out. not to put some more salt in your wound.
    #28
  9. Dean85GT

    Dean85GT New Member

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    that engine looks a little dirty.....muhahahaha
    #29
  10. hipochevys

    hipochevys New Member

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    yeah i forgot that one. you should have mentioned that you need to wash that block very well with some dish soap and warm water (with a sponge and a bristle brush for the oil galley holes) very well to clean out all the grit left in the cylinders and block from the honing process and a few trips in a jet wash (that recycles the water over and over again) it is very important to wash that engine when coming back from machine shop. you can eat a set of rings out in no time not to mention the grit destroying a fresh set of bearings. also where do you mention cleaning the crank oil galley holes with a brush to remove and grit or sludge and washing it just like you should to the block. there is alot more than just assembling a engine also where did you measure you piston to valve clearance?
    #30
  11. tkareno

    tkareno New Member

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    good information
    #31
  12. ninety15.0

    ninety15.0 New Member

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    I thought that it was a very good article to step a first time engine builder through the process. The pictures were very helpful. But i did notice a few things that were a little dirtier than i would have liked. Did you check end play?
    #32
  13. bluevenom867

    bluevenom867 I will have images of molesting stuffed animals in

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    I happen to agree with this guy,you did use alot of sealer in places where it was not need,or where another product would have been better.The only thing Ill say is the valve cover gaskets do tend to need some sealer on the vavle cover side,as the aftermarket rails dont seem to be perfectly flat. But you do have to remove the excess and let the gaskets "dry on" to the vlave covers off the motor.

    On the issue of galley plugs,if you have access to the proper taps or have the block in the machine shop,you might as well tap the galley end plugs for a NPT plug,its 1/8" NPT I believe it was.

    Your a little off on the head gaskets though,hipochevys,I have used both Cometic and the am currently runing the Titan SCE and I have talked with the manufactor and they DO NOT require retorquing after inital break-in.However,the RA on the deck surface must be 50 RA (╬╝in.) or finer (ours is around 20-25) and cylinder head must be no more than 18 RA. Of course the smoother the better when it comes to these type race gaskets. Standard Fel-Pro composite style gaskets however can get away with alot rougher surface,but should be retorqued after inital break-in.I have not had any problem and am runing 13.5:1 and spraying moderate amounts of nitrous. I should mention though,our motor is a 351W based,so it uses the larger 1/2" ARP stud with 110ft-lbs of torque (moly lube,not 30wt. oil)

    The oil pan gasket appeared to be a 4 piece,witch never seal well,so the sealer in basicly the gasket...
    #33
  14. bluevenom867

    bluevenom867 I will have images of molesting stuffed animals in

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    Yes,this is a very important step.

    I use Tide (original,I dont need or want my block smelling like fruit,lol) detergent disolved into water to clean the block initaly,I then spray the whoel thing down with WD40 to raise the water,and blow dry with compressed air.I then give it a pressure washing with mineral spirits to clean out all the gallies.Dry it with compressed air and start getting it taped and preped for the primer coat. My father does the spray work as hes a awsome painter,we steped out of the realm of normal spray can two-coat paint jobs.Ours is epoxy primed two coats,two finish,and three clear coats of PPG automotive paint,and it has help up exceptionatly well. I was worried at first about the heat,but the paint is holding up great.
    #34
  15. ShortThrow50

    ShortThrow50 Member

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    You sure do like the red thread locker. The red stuff is permanent. I would realy suggest not putting it on the cam thrust plate bolts as you did. The stuff was running down the sides of the block. Just a dab of the BLUE stuff is more than enough. Also, why would you do all that work and not paint hte engine
    #35
  16. Roland69

    Roland69 Sergeant Tangnet

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    good thread..Thanks
    #36
  17. baldy1

    baldy1 New Member

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    That thread is very good. I build transmissions for a living but never built a motor. They say if you can build a tranny then you can build a motor. Have my motor pulled out. I am about to the same. Rebuild mine. Along with a bunch of other stuff. Thank you for this thread I will be using this
    #37
  18. SuperStang83

    SuperStang83 Founding Member

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    Awesome thread, I will definitely save it as a favorite.
    #38

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