How to wetsand? Help clear coat peeling in a small spot!

91LX_5L

Founding Member
May 13, 2002
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British Columbia
Ok I was masking off around my fender so I could paint my inner fenders etc black to look all nice again, when I removed the masking tape a little chunk of clear cote peeled off about the size of a quarter. I tried chipping it away with my finger nail so it would be all flush, now I have a line about the size of a quarter a bit bigger of where you can notice that the clear cote has peeled. Now when I got my bumper and hood done he laied down a quick layer of clear on my fenders so it would match wicked. So I still have another few layers underneith and it looks just as shiny and good in that spot.

So to prevent it from peeling and spreading more I was thinking of wet sanding that area probay about 5x5" around the spot (about 1.5" x 1.5").

Will this work? How do I wetsand I have never done it before?

Also has anyone heard of or know anyone who has had their car wetsanded then another cote of clear sprayed all over then wetsanded again? I was thinking of doing that to just bring the shineyness back before I go for an entire new paint job, since my paint is still in wicked shape.

Thanks in advance!
 
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Anytime I've wetsanded when detailing cars, I'll take a bucket and either have just water if its a quick job, or a water/soap solution. Then use 1500 grit paper, soak it in the bucket, and then take a towel and soak it. While you lightly sand the area, squeeze the towel to always have water running over the area. That way you don't cut through too much clear. Then after you are done. I usually wheel out the area using 3M rubbing compound. Then it looks like it was never touched in the first place.

Jeremy
 
Try not to sand in a straight line motion. On occasion it is easy to put a little too much muscle into it and leave sand lines that have to be sanded/buffed out. The soap solution keeps it a little slicker so it doesnt take as much effort and aids a a lightly protective barrier. Having spent some time in and around a body shop and painting a couple 18 wheelers I am by no means an expert but I remember a few things. Body work is generally labor intesive, you can try to fix it yourself but realize that in the end if it doesnt look as good as you want just take it to a decent shop and they can fix it up in no time.

B
 
why dont you sand, then get some rattle can clear, mask an area off a little bigger than you make your "hole" in the clear, and spray it, then you can blend, buff and save money. idk maybe just me but i wouldnt pay a shop for something like that, plus you can learn how to do it, for when your kids wreck your cars in the future
 
The words "rattle can" and "car" should really never be used together. If the clear is peeling, that means it didn't get good adheasion (sp? omg) in the first place, probably because it wasn't prepaired right. Chances are its just going to keep peeling the more you sand. It needs to be sanded down and re-painted.

Also, really the only purpose of the water when you wet sand is to lubricate the paper and keep it clean. Rub some 1500 across your paint dry and in 2 passes its clogged an isn't any good anymore. Sanding with a good soft block is also a must. Don't just use your hand. Your fingers will put uneven pressure on the sand paper and leave grooves in the paint finish. Just practice, and find out what method works best.
 
reject5.0 said:
The words "rattle can" and "car" should really never be used together. /QUOTE]
yea no **** :Teh-Win: its obviously not the best way, but think about how much a shop will charge, also think about how much it would cost to buy equipment and paint/clear for a "regular" person off the street. you can make rattle can look decent if you are careful
 
No need to get defensive asscap. I know what you mean about cost. Paint work isn't cheap, and its for a reason. People get all crazy when I tell them what I charge. They see maaco $350 and think im ripping them off. If you take pride in your car, please don't use a rattle can. Save up some money, and get it done right. Hell there are always people willing to do side work for cheap. For a fender, id charge materials + a 6 pack. Once you've seen/done good work, you won't even want to touch a damn spray can again.
 
asscap? wtf? anyway i didnt say i would ever use a rattle can, i do all my own paint work and i can appreciate how much work is involved. most people dont have the tools/skills to even do a ****ty gun spray, rattle can does work if you know what you are doing, would i do it: no, would i suggest it to my friends: yes., better than chipping paint, even if it looks like crap, at least the base is protected for the moment..
 
I got some clear from work today, I sprayed on a spot you cant see and it looks pretty good. Ill give it a shot. Nothing to lose right!? Does it not matter if my base is not shiny because of the wetsanding around the chipped area, when I spray overtop? Will it not be impossible to get it to shine again with the clear ontop...doesnt make sence to me.
 
from what i understand, the clear is what makes the base shine, so no, i don't think it matters that your base in the sanded area isn't shiny--it should shine after you clear it.

talk about body work being labor intensive. i've been in the same spot with my work for a week--sanding, filling, sanding, filling, sanding. part of me wants to just crank it out and get it done asap, but i know preparation is the key to a nice paint job. my painter does awesome work, so if it doesn't look all that great in the end most of it will be up to me. i don't wanna half-ass the car--this thread kinda re-lit the fire. thanks, guys!
 
blk9450 said:
would i do it: no, would i suggest it to my friends: yes.

Thats A1 advice cheif. Would I pick my nose while driving over railroad tracks? no. Would I suggest you do it? you betcha. I wouldn't tell a friend to do somthing the wrong way, which is why I said no rattle can. Listen, i don't want it to sound like I am E thuggin you. I just am trying to voice my opinion. I get carried away too damn easy.

Anyway, 91LX_5L do you have some pics? Wherever you are going to spray that stuff, make sure it is not shiny. If it is shiny, it will just chip again. That was probably cause of your origional problem. You have to have some bite to get the paint to stick, know what i mean? If its shiny, it will be slick, and nothing will stick.
 
reject5.0 said:
Thats A1 advice cheif. Would I pick my nose while driving over railroad tracks? no. Would I suggest you do it? you betcha. I wouldn't tell a friend to do somthing the wrong way, which is why I said no rattle can. Listen, i don't want it to sound like I am E thuggin you. I just am trying to voice my opinion. I get carried away too damn easy.

Anyway, 91LX_5L do you have some pics? Wherever you are going to spray that stuff, make sure it is not shiny. If it is shiny, it will just chip again. That was probably cause of your origional problem. You have to have some bite to get the paint to stick, know what i mean? If its shiny, it will be slick, and nothing will stick.
im saying my friends dont know how to use a spray gun or how to do all that **** so yes i would suggest them to do it.
you can pipe down now
 
So far so good, sprayd one layer of clear, gonna do some xmas shopping and when im done ill wetsand and buff it. If it peels ill get the pannel redone if not this will be good for now. I shoulda got pics before...oh well.