I KNOW there's a clutch problem but ??????????

[MomzPony]

Throwout Bearing. I found the How-To write up here and have read through several forums that say to replace the clutch completely since you have to drop the tranny anyway. The car just rolled over 100k and hasn't had clutch repaired/replaced that I know of - Mom bought it used in 98ish. Replacing the clutch makes sense.

The questions? Parts and CAN I DO THIS MYSELF?

The other forum recommended a King Cobra Clutch Kit for $150 but I can pick up a kit at the local part store for $90. Is that a bad idea for the Mustang? I have no experience working on transmissions and don't really understand how much difference a performance clutch would make vs. a basic clutch. It IS a 5.0 Mustang - power is important but it's not a modified racing Mustang either. It will more than likely stay stock.

I have replaced a cooling fan motor, tie rods, alternator, serpentine belt, battery terminals, and done a tune-up on my own. I've got the basic skills but I've never done something this in depth. I don't really have any car savvy friends to help me out so it's a little intimidating. I know it won't be simple and it may take me a whole weekend... Sending it to a mechanic is pretty much out of the question. We're in a really tight spot and are now down to one car in a three driver household. I can do this right?? Anybody?

 

[99FiveOh]

You'll find that most parts store clutches are made by the same company that makes OEM and performance clutches, Valeo. I have used parts store replacement kits over the years without any issues. Even while running over 400 hp through one! So if you are on a budget go ahead and get it.

As far as difficulty is concerned, I'd rate it about a 6 on a scale from 1-10. You will encounter some hickups along the way that take experience to avoid. Luckily, you've got us here to help you if you run into any problems! The 2 most difficult things that usually come up in a clutch swap are removing the pilot bearing and getting the transmission to engage the pilot bearing upon reinstallation.

Hers is a thread I did a couple years ago on swapping a T5 into an AODE car: http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/781141-my-1994-gt-mustang-aode-t5-conversion-w-pics.html

Even though you are not swapping to a 5 speed, there is still pics and tips on the reinstalltion procedure. Good Luck!

 

[95Cobra302]

Putting in a new clutch was one of the first major car repairs I did when I was younger. I did a couple of my mustangs and a few of my friends too. Wasn't too hard, just read up on it and do alot of studying before you get started, that will help alot.

Just like nota4.6 said, you'll run into a few hiccups along the way, but they shouldn't be too bad. It's all part of the learning process!

I do recommend, and I've always done it, is resurfacing your flywheel if your gonna use your current one. I just brought mine to the machine shop down the street and they did it for 30-40 bucks.

Good Luck!

 

[99FiveOh]

Honestly, if resurfacing costs 40 bucks just get a new one from Advance or Autozone. They run about 55.00 brand new!

 

[MomzPony]

Even though you are not swapping to a 5 speed, there is still pics and tips on the reinstalltion procedure. Good Luck!

This look extremely helpful! I'm sure it'll be a great reference.

Putting in a new clutch was one of the first major car repairs I did when I was younger. I did a couple of my mustangs and a few of my friends too. Wasn't too hard, just read up on it and do alot of studying before you get started, that will help alot.

I ordered a Haynes Manual today. Will call and order the cheapo clutch to hold us down for now. If this doesn't severely injure myself or the car maybe we can try for more beef later!

Don't think I'll be broadcasting my feeble mechanic skills and fumbles that are sure to ensue this weekend but I will let you know how it goes! And quite possibly ask a few hundred more questions between start and finish.

Thank you both for the encouragement!

First things first. Beer store.

 

[95Cobra302]

Stock flywheel's are more like $80.00 bucks at advance.

 

[99FiveOh]

Then don't go to Advance. It's the same chunk of iron as this one: Fenco New/Flywheel - Manual Transmission (FW9711) | 1995 Ford Mustang 8 Cylinders T 5.0L SFI HO | AutoZone.com

 

[DanG]

I personally don't think changing out the clutch is all that difficult and wouldn't hesitate to do it myself. A lot of the work is labor intensive, including lifting the transmission back into place, unless you use a transmission jack or rent one. There are certainly a lot of steps involved with swapping out a clutch, changing pilot bearing, etc while you're there, however, I'd much rather do this than change head gaskets. JMO

 

[99FiveOh]

You can simply use a floor jack for the wimpy little T5. More often than not, if you go trying to lift the tranny into place by hand, it will be moving from side to side and you'll play hell trying to get the input shaft into the pilot bearing. Been there, done that, NOT FUN! Do yourself and your body a favor and use a jack of some kind. It's much easier to keep the trans steady on a jack.

 

[revhead347]

Doing a clutch is really easy, ah, but maybe because that's because I've done it a million times. Definately seperate the transmission from the bellhousing. As for the 2 tougher items that NOT a4.6 said were hard, there are easy solutions. For the pilot bearing, Advance rents this tool for free.

Buy Mountain Pilot Bearing Puller MTN9001 at Advance Auto Parts

Makes changing the bearing out easy. It usually comes out in two pieces, but it's a no brainer to do. The parts store keeps a Chinese bearing in stock, and it's a $1.50 more for the National brand one, but you have to order it. If you have trouble getting the transmission in place, get some all thread and cut short some short lenths. You then screw the all thread into the bellhousing as studs. This way, you get the transmission on the all thread, and then it slides up into the bellhousing already lined up.

I think the King Cobra is worth every penny. It's so much lighter on the pedal effort, and really a pleasure to drive. It's so much smoother than the stock clutch.

If the car has 100K miles on it, you might want to change the rear main seal on the engine, since you are already there.

Kurt

 

[MomzPony]

Looks like we'll be putting the Mustang repair to the side for now - we'd rather see it sitting in the garage for the winter. Salt = Rust =

I haven't contacted any machine shops yet but O'Reilly's carries a new flywheel for $55 and I'll definately take up Revhead's suggestion and rent a puller.

Thanks again for all the tips. I'm not afraid of breaking myself or the car and I know how to do it right now thanks to yous! (Well... in theory). I'll keep you posted!