I need a flow sheet for Pro-M 80MM

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Select functions

Select maf trans from drop down

Click Load Maf

Select ProM_30

After saving the new data be sure to check all cells in the transfer to see if anything looks wierd like a value of 0.0 in cell #30 or the last cell.

Later
Grady
 
I was hoping you would be the one to drop in. I have done this already, however it won't idle. Now that I put in the 30's it has a big sputter like its loading up.

Unfortunitly I don't have th R/T so I have no idea what the a/f is like. I got the MAF and Injectors off ebay. The MAF is setup for blower, So should I lean out the MAF transfer or richen it?


Also do I need to change the injector high/low slopes if the MAF is Cal'd for it? Anyting else i should change?
 
bayellowstang said:
I was hoping you would be the one to drop in. I have done this already, however it won't idle. Now that I put in the 30's it has a big sputter like its loading up.

Unfortunitly I don't have th R/T so I have no idea what the a/f is like. I got the MAF and Injectors off ebay. The MAF is setup for blower, So should I lean out the MAF transfer or richen it?


Also do I need to change the injector high/low slopes if the MAF is Cal'd for it? Anyting else i should change?

Contact Mike Glover and see if he will work you a deal so you can trade the basic for the RT cause without the ability to data log your so very much in the dark about whats goin on with your car.

The maf is most likely a bit rich for your na setup but with no dl ability I would not hose with transfer at this time. Just go with the generic curve as it is until you can see the data.

Yes, when you load in the maf curve the pcm will know the real air flow but it still thinks its got 19's so.......................

Start off with these inj values

low slope = 36.00
high slope = 30.00
batt offsets = you'll have to look em up on the tweecer site for your 30's. I'd give you mine but they are kinda sorta in between the GT & Cobra values......don't ask about it :D

Don't know if you are using the t4m0 or j4j1 but I'd use the j4j1 but then again you sig did not tell trans type.

Have you changed the cubic inch size yet?

See if this stuff helps the idle and let us know the results. Let us know if some of this don't make sense.

Later
Grady
 
I have the motor size set to 327. I have the Slopes set at what you said.

I am currently using the ZAO.bin

Which tweecer site the main or the forums for the battery offset?

I have 5 speed tranny.

I did talk to mike. He said they would just upgrade mine when I send it back. I currently don't have the money since i just got MAF and injectors.

Thanks for the help.
 
Ditch the ZAO cal. Just personal experience, I haven't had much success with it. You can use some of the tables or functions from importing them, if you see a particular one you like. I would start with the J4J1, boost the timing across the board and lean out the A/F. I would use the same injector slope for both high and low values. The battery offset isn't going to make a huge difference, so don't sweat it if you can't find it. You are only going from a 24 to 30lb injector, anyhow, calibration wise. If it loads up at low RPMs over time but not initially, I suggest running it open loop and just set the A/F where it runs best, since you can't datalog, you are going to have to just use your best judgment.
 
Ok so I went with the j4j1. I put in the Pro_30 and changed the high/low slopes. It now has rock solid idle at 672. It still back fires through the passenger side bank under acceleration. But the car doesn't feel nearly as strong as it did with the ZAO.

I'm starting to think I have a clogged or bad injector. Any suggestions what to do to diagnose?
 
Glad you made some progress!

As for the back fire, are you sure you don't have any header/exhaust leaks or vacuum leaks? Are you sure everything is in time and the valves are adjusted like they should be?

I would tell you to not worry about max power until you get the other things sorted out.

Like Steve told you......you can't data log or don't have a wide band so after you get the back fire and things like that sorted out you could try to lean the maf points up to say 1.0 volt by no more than 5% for the first trial test but only if the idle seems to load up cause things are too rich.

You can pick up the power with the spark & fuel tables but again I'd focus on drivability first.

Let us know how things turn out.

Later
Grady
 
I'm really starting to think it is either the injectors or something in the ignition. Let me explain why.

Friday I got the MAF and 30#er's. I put the MAF in and set the PROM_30 in for transfer rate. I left everything else the way it was. I took it for a drive and couldn't believe the difference the MAF made (over the Cobra MAF even with the 24# injectors). It wouldn't idle very well but it had much more power (it was breaking the tires lose at 3500rpm's in third gear).

Then Saturday I got up and changed the injectors out, ever since then it has been backfiring and not running well at all. I have it idleing solid at 672 now after switching to the J4J1.bin.

I did get the MAF and Injectors off of ebay, so I'm wondering if one is gummed up maybe (or bad even). If I can muster up some time this week I might switch out the injectors again.

Is there anyway to check injectors? Or a good way to clean them?


Thanks for all the replies so far. I posted this on the tweecer forum and have half as many replies.
 
If you have a diagnostic scanner it can run a load test, where it will drop one cylinder at a time, if you have a bad injector or wire or something it will show up when that cylinder is dropped. It will give you a repsonse at the end of the test telling you either all cylinders passed or if one failed. I would start here, if you suspect a bad injector
 
SmokinGT50 said:
If you have a diagnostic scanner it can run a load test, where it will drop one cylinder at a time, if you have a bad injector or wire or something it will show up when that cylinder is dropped. It will give you a repsonse at the end of the test telling you either all cylinders passed or if one failed. I would start here, if you suspect a bad injector


where can i get one of those are they expensive? You aren't talking about the code scanner are you?
 
I got it all tuned up and running. I went back to the ZAO.bin and started from scratch. It turns out I had the injector breakpoint set wrong.

I took it out for a spin and it ran good so I came home and looked at the plugs. They looked good so I took it out for a WOT pull and shut it off and checked the plugs. It looks slighly rich yet but thats good for now till I get my TwEEcer upgraded to the R/T model.

I can't wait to start really pulling the power out of the tune. The ZAO is far superior to the J4J1 I think. I downloaded a tune with very similar combo using the J4J1.bin, it ran good but no where near the power of the ZAO base tune I'm using now.


Not that I'm trying to argue with you guys that don't like the cobraR tune because I know nothing except for what I've read. But I finaly got a laptop and will soon have the R/T version so I hope to get the ZAO tune better understood for us stroker guys to use.
 
bayellowstang said:
I got it all tuned up and running. I went back to the ZAO.bin and started from scratch. It turns out I had the injector breakpoint set wrong.

I took it out for a spin and it ran good so I came home and looked at the plugs. They looked good so I took it out for a WOT pull and shut it off and checked the plugs. It looks slighly rich yet but thats good for now till I get my TwEEcer upgraded to the R/T model.

I can't wait to start really pulling the power out of the tune. The ZAO is far superior to the J4J1 I think. I downloaded a tune with very similar combo using the J4J1.bin, it ran good but no where near the power of the ZAO base tune I'm using now.


Not that I'm trying to argue with you guys that don't like the cobraR tune because I know nothing except for what I've read. But I finaly got a laptop and will soon have the R/T version so I hope to get the ZAO tune better understood for us stroker guys to use.

Once again Steve......Good to see things are working better :banana:

As far as the GT, Cobra R, or regular Cobra cal files go, one is not better than the other. The power or drivability one produces is gonna be better on one combo than a different one cause lots of combos are different.

Many peeps including myself have found the j4j1 to be much better than the t4m0 with the following items in common:
302-306 cubic inches
24-30lb inj
h/c/i

The MAIN reason many peeps like the j4j1 over the t4m0 is for its drivability benefits. :nice:
The j4j1 in its default state is softer on producing power than the t4m0. :D

In a earlier post I told you to not worry about max power until you got things sorted out. Now that you got things working better I guess I'll share a thing or two with you from my vewpoint.

You tune for two things:
1 drivability
2 wot max power

Of the two, drivability will be the most difficult :bang:
Max power is nothing more than working a bit with the spark/fuel tables :)

The default j4j1 is setup with values that give great drivability as I said before and the power is picked up with hardly no effort at all. :banana:

I guess I'm trying say that any of the Cbaza cal files can be made to work but some of them give you a better place to start from than others.

For you, it may be the ZAO but just cause it makes more get up and go with the skinny pedal down than the j4j1......well......there is more to setting up a custom tune for your very own combo than just wot. Like the rest of us, you'll have to find what works best for your combo :shrug:

Hope I helped more than I confused :rlaugh:

Later
Grady