I need HELP...Car trouble again...BIG PROBLEM.

[Highbredcloud]

UPDATE So the other day I did a compression test on cyl #3 and it was 60 psi...the others were around 150 psi...However, the pressure stayed in the cylinder...at 60 psi until I took the gauge off...SO what would cause such a loss in psi? It can't be a bent valve...because the pressure stayed constant in the cylinder untill I took the gauge off...can it be a bad spring? What would cause the valve to stick? any ideas would be appreciated... End of UPDATE

The car was fine one day and the next the the car drives like its missing...kind of like the timing is all out of whack...but its not in my case...I checked the spark plugs and on cyl. #3 the plug was all black...and that was the only one that was like that...the rest of th spark plugs were fine...

so all the spark plugs were replaced...the spark plug wire does not seem to be damaged either since there is spark going to it plus I used a different spark plug wire do double check.

I also checked if the rockers were loose since the car is making more ticking noises than the usual rockers make. I found out that the car has compression on cyl #3 by taking out the spark plug and pluging the hole with the finger while having someone crank the car, however, it seems as though the air is escaping through the intake manifold...there is a lot of noise inside the upper intake...this could explain the extra noise...

I really don't know what is up with the car...I have no codes...no check engine light...and the car has not been driven hard...Could this be a busted vavle spring not allowing the valve to open/close fast enought causing the air to escape through the intake manifold? :crying: I don't think I dropped the vavle...since I can feel the air being sucked in and pushed out when having a finger over the spark plug hole...The pushrods are not bent either...so the valve should not be damaged in anyway...COULD the lifter have seized? :crying:

I have the FORD RACING heavy duty springs that can support 135# on the seat pressure...and the car worked fine for 3 years with those springs on there...ANY ideas guys? Please help...

sig...Engine: FTI cam, GT-40X heads, GT-40 upper and lower, FMS 65mm TB, FMS 1.6 rr, FMS underdrive pulleys, Pro-M 77, FMS 30# injectors, 255lph fuel pump.
Drivetrain: Tremec 3550, FMS 3.73's, FMS aluminum driveshaft,
Exhaust: BBK equal length shorties, BBK O/R X pipe, FlowMaster American Thunder.
Suspension: Maximum Motorsports SFC


thanks,

-Greg

 

[jrichker]

Cylinder balance test:
Warm the car's engine up to normal operating temperature. Use a jumper wire or paper clip to put the computer into test mode. Start the engine and let it go through the normal diagnostic tests, then quickly press the throttle to the floor. The engine RPM should exceed 2500 RPM's for a brief second. The engine RPM's will increase to about 1450-1600 RPM and hold steady. The engine will shut off power to each injector, one at a time. When it has sequenced through all 8 injectors, it will flash 99 for everything OK, or the number of the failing cylinder such as 22 for cylinder #2. Quickly pressing the throttle again up to 2500 RPM’s will cause the test to re-run with smaller qualifying figures. Do it a third time, and if the same cylinder shows up, the cylinder is weak and isn’t putting out power like it should. See the Chilton’s Shop manual for the complete test procedure

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at Walmart.

Then do a blow down test on any cylinders that fail the cylinder balance test. See http://jrichker.stangnet.com/Mustan...ession_tester/Blow_down_comprssion_tester.htm for more info and a how to build your own tester.

 

[Grn92LX]

vacuum leak? My car drove like crap at first due to vacuum leaks. Mine were bad enough to cause a check engine light.

 

[Highbredcloud]

ttt