I ordered my Vortech SQ S Trim!

Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!
Founding Member
Jan 14, 2001
6,819
61
129
New York
So after a few posts trying to decide what to do, I decided that boost was my best option. I got a really good price from www.superchargers4less.com for the complete kit and the 30lb recal FMU disk. I can't wait to get it! I wanted to do a n/a 347 stroker but to do it right to make the power I wanted (400+rwhp) was going to cost too much. I'm going to keep this thread alive as I get questions along the way and to keep up to date on the progress.

Now, what size punch do I need for the oil pan? I believe I need a 3/8" ntp tap which I should have in the garage. Baically I think I bang it out with a hammer, then put some grease on the tap and slowly work in it and out. I've tapped stuff before but nothing important like an oil pan :eek:

What other precautions should I take for the pcv line? I read about guys sucking oil thru the pcv in to the intake. I read soemthing about putting a 1 way check valve in the pvc line. I guess so only air can flow from the manifold thru the pcv, NOT from the pcv back into the manifold?

I don't plan on using the BTM, what I was going to do is lock out the timing and keep the spout out. What is a safe degree to lock it at, I was thinking around 17*. I plan on seeing about 8lbs of boost so my guess is 17* is super safe.

For now I plan on keeping the 30lb injectors and FMU (I beleive its a 6:1) I will dyno to be sure the a/f is good. I would like to see around an 11.5:1 a/f across or maybe a touch richer up top. To be safe with my stock block, I will keep the rev's below 6000 rpm. I figure with the a/f good I should see 450rwhp safely. Down the road I plan on buying an Anderson PMS and a 42lb or 50lb injector. I think 50's can be used on stock eec, right?

Also, should I upgrade my balancer? My shortblock has 120k miles.

Mike
 
  • Sponsors (?)


i think some guys use a Supra PCV valve. then some put breathers on valve covers.

17* total timing sounds a little low, but im not the one to ask.

good luck and enjoy!!
 
Nice choice! I'm in the process of saving for a new 306, which will be paid for when I get my tax return (I can't wait). Anyway, I have plans of putting the SQ S-trim on it, or maybe I'll get the loud V1 just to rub in the fact I have a blower... lol. Good luck!
 
Daggar said:
Does anyone else here think that an 11.5:1 AFR is already too rich???
i thought the same, but dont know what you blower guys use. i thought a little leaner would free up some power. i thought he just errored on the side of richness. :shrug:
 
No, i'd like to shoot for around 11.5:1 for safety. Remember, a dynojet doesnt load the chassis like it would be loaded on the street so its really leaner than the dyno reads. IMO, 12.5:1 with my combo is too lean for my taste. I know what a blown head gasket is like from when I blew one on nitrous and its not fun. I'll take the "rich" a/f for safety.
 
I think my 347 dream might be out of reach too now that I bought my truck. My problem is that my engine is worn out, not completley but in good enough condition to do more mods. Loosing 30-50% of your compression by the rings just isn't good for making power. I am thinking of pulling the engine apart and if everything is in check just re-honing the cylinders, and putting in new rings and berrings. Then if I can putting on a set of AFR's and a custom cam and that way I'll be running all next season. While that is going on maby buying parts to build a turbo. I am not sure right now, we'll just see.
 
90mustangGT said:
I think my 347 dream might be out of reach too now that I bought my truck. My problem is that my engine is worn out, not completley but in good enough condition to do more mods. Loosing 30-50% of your compression by the rings just isn't good for making power. I am thinking of pulling the engine apart and if everything is in check just re-honing the cylinders, and putting in new rings and berrings. Then if I can putting on a set of AFR's and a custom cam and that way I'll be running all next season. While that is going on maby buying parts to build a turbo. I am not sure right now, we'll just see.

I hear ya man, doing a new combo is far from cheap to do right. Even this Vortech wasn't cheap, but it was way cheaper than a new engine combo. I figure if this 302 dies, i'll have it rebuilt and bored however much it needs to be good (304 or 306) use the stock crank and just use a good TW specific piston with a decent I beam rod with arp bolts along with new bearings and rings.

Any other comments?

Mike
 
Grn92LX said:

blowers are garbage..... why do you think that no here has one!?!?!?! :rolleyes:

just messin, i hope that you are satisfied when you get it in. your combo is pretty nice already, but this may get ya to that 400rwhp mark ya been eyeing up. too bad that you will never be satisfied with just 8psi :D
 
Great choice, You really shouldnt need to upgrade your stock balancer unless u feel it needs to be replaced. Follow the instructions for tapping the pan and its a fairly straight foward process. Goodluck!
 
N8Miller said:
just messin, i hope that you are satisfied when you get it in. your combo is pretty nice already, but this may get ya to that 400rwhp mark ya been eyeing up. too bad that you will never be satisfied with just 8psi :D

My friend did 503rwhp with a set up just like mine with a novi 1000. He had a powerpipe and a crank pulley. My car should do 450rwhp with a safe tune. With more injector and tuned right, I can only imagine what it could do, but I dont wanna push it and around 450hp is where i'll probably stay.

I just scored a deal on a romac ultra light race balancer (7.15lbs) from a kid I talk to. Its brand new/never used. I believe its lighter than stock, since its 3 lbs lighter than the standard romac balancer.
 
"I decided that boost was my best option"

I wish I made decision before I bought my 331ci. People don't realize actually how expensive strokers really are...it goes beyond just the kit price. Once you have the kit then you realize you need more head and since you're going have the motor apart better to do now then down the road. Then you realize you're clutch isn't up to the new power levels so that needs to be replaced. Then you start to look at the parts you already have and realize that if you use them you're going to have a less than impressive stroker, can't have that right what's the sense? Just keeps going from there. The absolute best thing you can do now is buy a good tuner, being able to make changes yourself rather than having a chip burnt anytime something changes will save $ in the long run.

Once you're rolling on a dyno it is not that much different than driving down the street, the load different you're talking about is more during the rollout.

Go over to Corral.net and do search for Mike Plummer he's been running SCs for years and has a very good idea of what tune you'll need.
 
Grn92LX said:
Also, should I upgrade my balancer? My shortblock has 120k miles.

Mike


YES!!!!

thats what I did, my stock one had 118,000 miles on it when I put my blower on. Last thing you want to do is pour all that money into a new blower and have a bad ballancer screw the motor up if it went bad. Its worth the money, look at it this way, your spending a good chunk of change on a blower so why not spend another $200 for a good ballancer and thats one less thing to worry about. I bought my ROMAC off ebay for $220. My friend chris called the place that sold me mine and he bought direct from them for $200
 
Thanks for the suggestions. I am going to get that ultra light romac race balancer.

For the smog pump, I was going to gut it so it'll just basically be a free wheeling pulley. I dont have my smog hooked up. All I need is the pump, right the kit should come with new bolts and the smog puimp bracket?

I have decided that down the road I will be going with the PMS after talking with the dude that runs the stangtuning.com site.

THis weekend im hoping to have the pan tapped and the alternator and bracket removed.