I started breakin down the stock engine for my H/C/I upgrade...a few questions....

Yeah im pretty sure that you can turn off the EGR with the Tweecer. Also the main thing i have to say is make sure that all the gasket surfaces are immaculate. Like your ready to eat off of them. That will ensure that everything seals like it should.
 
  • Sponsors (?)


WhiteDevil said:
Yeah im pretty sure that you can turn off the EGR with the Tweecer. Also the main thing i have to say is make sure that all the gasket surfaces are immaculate. Like your ready to eat off of them. That will ensure that everything seals like it should.


What do u guys use to clean/scrape the deck with? With my new parts, should i wipe them with rubbing alcohol or anything like that before putting the gasket on?

One other thing, which gaskets should i use RTV with and which go on dry?

Thanks again
 
nmcgrawj said:
What do u guys use to clean/scrape the deck with? With my new parts, should i wipe them with rubbing alcohol or anything like that before putting the gasket on?

One other thing, which gaskets should i use RTV with and which go on dry?

Thanks again


Gotta use a little elbow grease, Nate. Unless you have air tools and you have a cleaning disk pad? No rubbing alcohol, use a scraper or a razor blade and a few cans of brake cleaner and a rag! Head gaskets go on dry. For the fel pro lower intake gasket don't forget to cut out the coolant ports (when you get the gasket you'll see) and put a little silicone around both sides of the coolant ports (just a little) and a thick bead on the block deck instead of the cork pieces. Honestly, i've used both and never had any issues, but prefer cork. For the timing cover and water pump you can put them on dry. I used silicone on mine too but I don't think its necessary. For the part of the oil pan under the timing cover, be careful when removing the cover this way you keep the stock gasket nice and you don't have to cut it up and use cork ends. Possibly a little silicone in the corners won't hurt? I cant remember.
 
I know I'm a bit late, but I'm going to chime in on something that may piss a few people off. :D

Head studs are a COMPLETE waste on a stock motor. Studs have extra clamping force, yes. If you are worried about the clamping forces under heavy amounts of boost or nitrous, you should be looking into a new block and internals rather than mickey-mousing it with head studs. A 5.0 production block will break before your head bolts back out.

Of course, this is all assuming everything is prepped and installed properly. ;)

Joe
 
Nate...

Clean the surface clean of oil on your aluminum heads, as well as engine block.

Alcohol does a good job, as well as plain jane gasoline...

Just douse the rag and clean off the surfaces.