i wanna lose some weight!

[DerekStangGT]

whats the best weight reduction techniques? i need to keep my backseats b/c i have amps mounted on them and i need my a/c. other than that, what can i do?

 

[ocelot]

Losing weight is mostly about getting rid of some luxuries, so if you aren't willing to get rid of things like the a/c, and seats, losing weight isn't really for you. As far as the back seats, why not just mount the amps on whatever you fill the holes with when removing the seats?

 

[Chili]

The amps are probably heavier than the seat, not to mention subs (I assume that's what the amps are driving)! If you're serious about dropping weight lose the system first. Otherwise, trying to drop 5lbs here or there is kind of pointless when you've already added 20, 50 or whatever your stuff weighs.

Personally I'm not too concerned with weight and prefer the comfort items (like ac and system). Unless I ever get into serious competition I'm not even going to bother. I do take my sub box out when going to the track but otherwise run full weight, spare tire set and all.

 

[300bhp/ton]

whats the best weight reduction techniques? i need to keep my backseats b/c i have amps mounted on them and i need my a/c. other than that, what can i do?

lets face it the Mustang is pretty powerful/grunty car stock. Do you reall notice much difference having 1 other person in the car?

I would guess not, even at the track it probably wouldn't make that many odds for most people because they won't be using 100% of the cars performance.

So to make any NOTICABLE difference esp on the street your gonna need to put you stang on a strict diet. As a half hearted attempt will only get on your nearves after a while and NOT imporve performance.


Options would involve the following:

-Rip every electrical accesory out - a/c, stereo (AND AMPS) all speakers, electric window motors, window winder mech, electric seats.

-Remove all carpets and soundedening from the inside including the roof, and in the boot and under the bonnet.

-Remove all trim, door cards, centre consul and dash. You will have to make a lightweight mount for the gauges on the firewall.

-Replace the front seats with lightweight rigid items, however remove the silder mech from the passenger and have it fixed in one position.

-If you still want rear seats then a lightweight unit could be adapted.

-Remove all side windows and replace with either mesh or lightweigh PVC plastic

-Have a thinner windscreen made

-Obviously if you want to use it on the street then headlights and such need to remain, but there is usually a fair amount of weight that can be stripped of the bumper frames and such.

-Replace the bonnet and boot lid with lightweight fiberglass or carbon fiber

-Dry sump the engine and locate the oil resorvior and batterty in the boot.

-Have some aluminium door skins made and fitted.

-Run some light weight wheels and tyres (not too big but appropriate for need)

-There is also probably a fair amount of weight to strip from under the car too, such as lightweight aluminum or titanium LCA/UCA's, drive and propshafts, diff gears and diff/axel casing. Along with a singe exit exhaust unless two short pipes venting just behind the front wheels on either side.

-Any exterior trim such as wings, scoops, side moldings and body kits.


All in all it should save you a fair few 100kg's and bring the car in line with the middle weights rather than the heavy weights.

 

[MyEarsHurt]

I know the feeling of not wanting to get rid of the system. I am not doing anymore weight reduction things because its silly if you are keeping the A/C and system. I mean, whats the point in buying a $500 lightweight hood, lightweight seats etc etc if you are keeping the 20 lbs for amps/wiring and 30 lbs for sub/enclosure.

 

[mrvax]

Worst thing about this is that there are far more/easier places to shed weight in the REAR when the front is where you really would like to drop it.

Have you considered a micro battery with a trunk installation kit?

 

[97v6Silver]

you could just beilt a lightweight car out of tubular aluminum and drop a stang motor in it and put a few stang emblems on it

 

[Gearbanger 101]

Worst thing about this is that there are far more/easier places to shed weight in the REAR when the front is where you really would like to drop it.

Have you considered a micro battery with a trunk installation kit?

I'll take weight transfer for $100 Alex.

Besides.....stripping the car of the little luxuries to lose weight is a PITA.....I'd rather just add horsepower.

 

[BlackenedSVT]

whats the best weight reduction techniques? i need to keep my backseats b/c i have amps mounted on them and i need my a/c. other than that, what can i do?

Put your car on a low octane diet with no carbs. Exercise her regularly at the local track. I preferably like to take her to the high school 1/4 mile track for some PT and calistenics. Buy her some nice shoes to run in too and she should be losing weight in no time

no jk.

Seriously, I would recommend getting rid of the K-member for a tubular one. I just installed my headers this weekend, and DAMn that K-memeber is bulky and heavy. Tubular Ks are about 40lbs lighter, so thats a lot to drop right there. Then save another 60+lbs with a rear-seat delete and ditch the amps with are useless added weight too. You can also take the passenger seat and make it your driver seat and sell your driver seat for another passenger seat or just leave it out. The motors in the power driver seat are heavy.

You also can try removing your foglights, because they add wieght and are useless anyway. Then try getting a CF hood which will save a lot of weight, maybe even remove your spoiler.

Also get some lighter wheels and tires. Like the STEEDA Ultra Light wheels that are MUCH lighter than stock and come in both 17 and 18"s.

The easiest thing to do is also remove the spare tire, jack and carpet in the trunk of your car so its lighter, that saves about 30lbs.

Then I would recommend a battery re-location kit. Move hte battery to the trunk, help with traction and distribute some weight by removing more engine weight.

You also can get an aluminum drive shaft. Maybe even some Carbon Fiber Mirrors for the sides. Remove your rugs when you race too, because DAMN those things are actually pretty heavy. I know my old rubber ones were!

Most importantly (and the easiest weight reduction) is to put yourself on a diet if you can Seriously, 10 less lbs on you is 10 less lbs in your car...


Uhh I think thats all I can think of at the moment....

 

[BlackenedSVT]

lets face it the Mustang is pretty powerful/grunty car stock. Do you reall notice much difference having 1 other person in the car?

I would guess not, even at the track it probably wouldn't make that many odds for most people because they won't be using 100% of the cars performance.

So to make any NOTICABLE difference esp on the street your gonna need to put you stang on a strict diet. As a half hearted attempt will only get on your nearves after a while and NOT imporve performance.


Options would involve the following...

I think your plan is a BIT too drastic. I mean, remove the windows for mesh and PVC plastic?!?! What is this nascar with the netted up windows?

-Remove all carpets and soundedening from the inside including the roof, and in the boot and under the bonnet.

-Remove all trim, door cards, centre consul and dash. You will have to make a lightweight mount for the gauges on the firewall.

That is the funniest post in that whole thing i think! And without a carpet (even remove the roof carpeting!?) his car would look like a freakin army hummer with a milk-crate seat and a stick & wheel. His car would look TERRIBLE and be COMPLETELY un-streetable. I will agree that this is the BEST way to do weight reduction. But the kid said he doesn't want to remove his amp and A/C unit, so you can tell right away hes not AS SERIOUS about weight reduction as you are making him sound. I mean who would remove their windows and carpeting, but keep their subs? I mean, if you're THAT serious about weight reduction you should have told him to get a convertable and remove the motor and roof and just put a carbon fiber toneau over it all. Or hack saw the coupe roof off. A roof has to save, what? ...at least 200lbs, right?

 

[300bhp/ton]

I think your plan is a BIT too drastic. I mean, remove the windows for mesh and PVC plastic?!?! What is this nascar with the netted up windows?




That is the funniest post in that whole thing i think! And without a carpet (even remove the roof carpeting!?) his car would look like a freakin army hummer with a milk-crate seat and a stick & wheel. His car would look TERRIBLE and be COMPLETELY un-streetable. I will agree that this is the BEST way to do weight reduction. But the kid said he doesn't want to remove his amp and A/C unit, so you can tell right away hes not AS SERIOUS about weight reduction as you are making him sound. I mean who would remove their windows and carpeting, but keep their subs? I mean, if you're THAT serious about weight reduction you should have told him to get a convertable and remove the motor and roof and just put a carbon fiber toneau over it all. Or hack saw the coupe roof off. A roof has to save, what? ...at least 200lbs, right?

I totally agree it is drastic, but the Stang is HEAVY. In fact it wieghs more than many off roaders.

Although weight saving is weight saving, in the case of the Stang I wouldn't even bother unless your target weight to loose is 200+kg (440lbs) as I don't think you'll really feel the benefit otherwise. As there are wanting the car streetable I'm referring to SOTP and street use as opposed to track.

I know from experiance that my V12 feels every bit as fast with 2 or 3 people in as it does with one, it just uses more fuel!

 

[DerekStangGT]

....but the Stang is HEAVY. In fact it wieghs more than many off roaders.

off roaders? maybe youre thinking of SUVs? i know there arent many of them in Europe. anyway, most SUVs weight 4,000lbs+. my dad's Durango weighs 4,800lbs. my stang weighed in at 3,520lbs at the track, which was light a 40lb sub box. even that is ~400lbs lighter than a light SUV.

Although weight saving is weight saving, in the case of the Stang I wouldn't even bother unless your target weight to loose is 200+kg (440lbs) as I don't think you'll really feel the benefit otherwise. As there are wanting the car streetable I'm referring to SOTP and street use as opposed to track.

actually, the general rule of thumb is ~10rwhp=.01 in the 1/4 and every 100 lbs lost=.01 in the 1/4. i would love to be able to shave 100lbs off the stang, but that won't happen w/o major work. what i was just looking for were little things i could do to make the GT feel a little peppier.

I know from experiance that my V12 feels every bit as fast with 2 or 3 people in as it does with one, it just uses more fuel!

that's strange b/c i can tell a huge difference in my stang when there is one passenger. i can even tell a difference when my 60lb tool box is in the trunk

 

[wesl56]

yeah the main things, without taking out the carpet and windows, would be like tubular k-member, tubular control arms, and there is a bunch of crap under the hood you can ditch... airboxes, emissions crap, egr, winshield washer tank/pump/squirters/hoses, just pop the hood and look for stuff you can do without.... it adds up

 

[300bhp/ton]

off roaders? maybe youre thinking of SUVs? i know there arent many of them in Europe. anyway, most SUVs weight 4,000lbs+. my dad's Durango weighs 4,800lbs. my stang weighed in at 3,520lbs at the track, which was light a 40lb sub box. even that is ~400lbs lighter than a light SUV.

Yeah, sorrywas comparing to the like of Land Rovers and such whichare the common 4x4's here. A Mustnag weighs more than one of these (and these are generally considered heavy)

actually, the general rule of thumb is ~10rwhp=.01 in the 1/4 and every 100 lbs lost=.01 in the 1/4. i would love to be able to shave 100lbs off the stang, but that won't happen w/o major work. what i was just looking for were little things i could do to make the GT feel a little peppier.

All I can say is go for it But be prepared for some sacrifices - I know my TR7 has literally no interior, no stereo and no sound dedening. But it sure is FUN!


that's strange b/c i can tell a huge difference in my stang when there is one passenger. i can even tell a difference when my 60lb tool box is in the trunk

At the track against a stop watch I'm sure I would, but not in street use as in SOTP feel. I once had 4 people in the XJS, two of them where well over 6 Foot and weighed in excess of 15 stone. However it still shot up to an indicated 150mph no problem and even convinced the no beleiver Chavs that where riding with me that displacement counts! However you could watch the fuel gage drop as speed increased, I think fully loaded with your foot down it only manages 7-8mpg

 

[dsg_gt2004]

trimspa

 

[mrvax]

yeah the main things, without taking out the carpet and windows, would be like tubular k-member, tubular control arms, and there is a bunch of crap under the hood you can ditch... airboxes, emissions crap, egr, winshield washer tank/pump/squirters/hoses, just pop the hood and look for stuff you can do without.... it adds up

This is a great idea. Tubular K member saves about 60-70 lbs from what I've heard and it's off the FRONT where you really want to drop it. My only question that I have & never had an answer for is if the tubular K member is as strong as the stock steel one in case of an accident.

Anyone have some data?

 

[DerekStangGT]

Yeah, sorrywas comparing to the like of Land Rovers and such whichare the common 4x4's here. A Mustnag weighs more than one of these (and these are generally considered heavy)?

land rovers are huge here too though. i forgot you europeans roll around in smart cars

All I can say is go for it But be prepared for some sacrifices - I know my TR7 has literally no interior, no stereo and no sound dedening. But it sure is FUN!?

pure performance. i only have one car, so it has to be a little practical too

At the track against a stop watch I'm sure I would, but not in street use as in SOTP feel. I once had 4 people in the XJS, two of them where well over 6 Foot and weighed in excess of 15 stone. However it still shot up to an indicated 150mph no problem and even convinced the no beleiver Chavs that where riding with me that displacement counts! However you could watch the fuel gage drop as speed increased, I think fully loaded with your foot down it only manages 7-8mpg ?

15 stone? im thinkin ~200lbs i bet that V12 will hold it's own while lagging around some weight! 7-8 mpg? dont they shoot you in europe for anything under 15 mpg?

This is a great idea. Tubular K member saves about 60-70 lbs from what I've heard and it's off the FRONT where you really want to drop it. My only question that I have & never had an answer for is if the tubular K member is as strong as the stock steel one in case of an accident.

Anyone have some data?

ive heard it's stronger. no data though this is really good advice. im gonna start saving for a tubular K-member and tubular A arms now

 

[hotmustang331]

15 stones? what the. hmm ok like are we talking about 10 pound rocks or 15 pound stones or 20 pound bolders? how big? anyways I also can tell a NICE difference when my pop rides with me (237ish). It feels pretty slow. weight does make a diffence, but derek if you want to save weight W/O sacraficing luxurys (like me) I would buy a tubular K member and coilove conversion kit. And look guys, i dont care who you are...YOU CANNOT TAKE THE A/C OUT OF YOUR DD HERE IN TEXAS! You will sweat to DEATH, humidity seems to rarely fall below freggin 60-70% LOL and is ofen at 90-100%...its crazy.

 

[white96blown2v]

ever 100#'s = .10 in the 1/4 pretty much standard drag racing math. to a point it's easier to lighten car than add power prepending on your pocket book. with equal drivers a 3000lbs car will beat a 3400lbs car all day all night.

 

[stangman]

This is a great idea. Tubular K member saves about 60-70 lbs from what I've heard and it's off the FRONT where you really want to drop it. My only question that I have & never had an answer for is if the tubular K member is as strong as the stock steel one in case of an accident.

Anyone have some data?

no way is it as strong as the stocker. waaaay too much mass difference in the two to be the same strength. although the tubular one is very strong.