Hey bmo,
why don't you remove that cold air intake in your sig. then? After all, that cold, brrrrrrr... air is just gonna go thru everything you mentioned, AND a 215+*F intake... so, why bother?
I assume that if you are arguing the point, then you've followed all the proper icing procedures and tested it yourself?
The reason why those listed do not do it is because thay have over an hour between runs, most of them dissassemble thier entire top end, providing adequate cooling others run elect. fans and water pumps, which are much more efficient than ice, and can get thier entire engine down to 160F-140F... now that would be nice.
In the meantime, to anyone looking for the last couple of tenths on a strict budget, icing the intake plain and simple works.
In addition to the post above, I'd like to add that NHRA stock, and super stock class's use that wastefull ice as well.
Hey, if that's not enough, lets go talk to Bob Cosby about this...
why don't you remove that cold air intake in your sig. then? After all, that cold, brrrrrrr... air is just gonna go thru everything you mentioned, AND a 215+*F intake... so, why bother?
I assume that if you are arguing the point, then you've followed all the proper icing procedures and tested it yourself?
The reason why those listed do not do it is because thay have over an hour between runs, most of them dissassemble thier entire top end, providing adequate cooling others run elect. fans and water pumps, which are much more efficient than ice, and can get thier entire engine down to 160F-140F... now that would be nice.
In the meantime, to anyone looking for the last couple of tenths on a strict budget, icing the intake plain and simple works.
In addition to the post above, I'd like to add that NHRA stock, and super stock class's use that wastefull ice as well.
Hey, if that's not enough, lets go talk to Bob Cosby about this...