Idle Issue

[92Patrol5.0]

I'm not the one that replied with all those codes. But thanks for the input. I never did pull the codes, although I'm sure there is something there since I had that vacuum leak. My mileage was terrible, and when this idle issue started I could smell gas fumes really bad like I said in my original post. That would probably explain it since the hose was part of the smog system.

 

[92Patrol5.0]

Anyone know where I can get this piece of hose? I took it off today assuming I could use a piece of hose to replace it.. however, the piece that connects to the intake is larger than the end that connects to a plastic fitting at the other end. Is this a part I have to get from Ford, or does a parts store have pieces with different sized ends like this?

 

[92Patrol5.0]

Anyone know about this piece of hose? Is the only option to get it from Ford? Or can I piece together a couple different sized hoses to connect together?

 

[jrichker]

Anyone know about this piece of hose? Is the only option to get it from Ford? Or can I piece together a couple different sized hoses to connect together?

I spliced two different sizes together. When you get the right combination of sizes, they fit one inside the other. Then all you need is a clamp to snug them up.

 

[DTT92LX]

Actually, if you follow the larger hose from the intake towards the canister, you'll see that there is an adapter somewhere around the T-stat housing or upper rad hose that reduces the hose size. In other words, there are 2 different size hoses used and they are connected in the middle. Maybe the connection was behind the alt. Can't quite remember...

G'luck

 

[HISSIN50]

I spliced two different sizes together. When you get the right compination of sizes, they fit one inside the other. Then all you need is a clamp to snug them up.

That is how I did it too. I only needed to splice a little bit - once that hose clears the plenum, the vulcanization is quite reduced.

The charcoal cannister side has similar hoses - that was more of a pain to splice together. good luck.

 

[smokenda22s]

well after about a week or more of letting my car sit...i went back at it, gave it a tune up, and kept on looking for possible solutions too fix my stalling problems......i finally found that my BAP sensor wasnt hooked up , ive only had this car for maybe 2 months...what benifit if any would come from disconnecting it. well after reconnecting it...my car doesnt stall anymore,at least for now. now for the new problems... idle does surge a lil..not much, mostly between 600-800rpm...the most noticable thing is my exhaust fumes....black puffs of smoke at idle, with a strong smell of "emissions/fuel", didnt do it before, only after connecting BAP......im going too run and hopefully pull codes at work tonight and see what she says......

 

[smokenda22s]

ok..i finally got around driving car around pulling codes....what i got were
14=pip
18=spout or spark angle word????
22,24,81,82...which i got before
a few that i got last time i didnt get this time

one thing...after finding the BAP sensor disconnected, are reattaching it, it seem the car runs more like crap. at speed it'll drop all power my rpms go from +1500, too 0 for second or two, and jump back up. the car also stalled on me, and would only crank until i let it sit for a few minutes and it finally turned over, drove it home at parked it until today, when i pulled the codes.....

 

[jrichker]

ok..i finally got around driving car around pulling codes....what i got were
14=pip
18=spout or spark angle word????
22,24,81,82...which i got before
a few that i got last time i didnt get this time

one thing...after finding the BAP sensor disconnected, are reattaching it, it seem the car runs more like crap. at speed it'll drop all power my rpms go from +1500, too 0 for second or two, and jump back up. the car also stalled on me, and would only crank until i let it sit for a few minutes and it finally turned over, drove it home at parked it until today, when i pulled the codes.....

The year of you car & mods would help. The following is based on 89-93 model stangs with stock EFI & ignition.

Code 14 - Ignition pickup (PIP) was erratic – the hall effect sensor in the distributor is failing. Bad sensor, bad wiring, dirty contacts. You have to press the distributor gear off the shaft to replace the sensor. The pip signal is used for ignition timing and fuel injector timing.

Code 18 - SPOUT out or wiring fault - look for short to ground in SPOUT wiring going back to the computer.

Code 22 MAP (vacuum) or BARO signal out of range. The MAP or BARO sensor is pretty much the same sensor for both Mass Air & Speed Density cars. The main difference is where it is connected. Mass Air cars vent it to the atmosphere, while Speed Density cars connect it to the intake manifold vacuum. Its purpose is to help set a baseline for the air/fuel mixture and changes in barometric pressure. The MAP or BAP sensor puts out a 5 volt square wave that changes frequency with variations in atmospheric pressure. The base is 154 HZ at 29.92" of mercury - dry sunny day at sea level, about 68-72 degrees. You need an oscilloscope or frequency meter to measure it.

Baro or MAP test using frequency meter - run the test key on engine off. The noise from the ignition system will likely upset the frequency meter. I used a 10 x oscilloscope probe connected from the frequency meter to the MAP/BAP to reduce the jitter in the meter's readout.

Make sure you have 5 volts on the orange/white wire on the MAP sensor.

If it is defective, your air/fuel ratio will be off and the car’s performance & emissions will suffer.

Code 24 - Intake Air Temperature (ACT) sensor out of range. Bad sensor, bad wiring. The ACT for Mustangs built before 95 is in the #5 intake runner. It measures the air temperature in the intake to help computer the proper air/fuel ratio.

Note that that if the outside air temp is below 50 degrees F that the test for the ACT can be in error.

ACT & ECT test data:

The ACT & ECT have the same thermistor, so the table values are the same

Pin 7 on the computer - ECT signal in. at 176 degrees F it should be .80 volts

Pin 25 on the computer - ACT signal in. at 50 degrees F it should be 3.5 volts. It is a good number if the ACT is mounted in the inlet airbox. If it is mounted in the lower intake manifold, the voltage readings will be lower because of the heat transfer. Here's the table :

68 degrees F = 3.02 v
86 degrees F = 2.62 v
104 degrees F = 2.16 v
122 degrees F = 1.72 v
140 degrees F = 1.35 v
158 degrees F = 1.04 v
176 degrees F = .80 v
194 degrees F = .61

Note that all resistance tests must be done with power off. Measuring resistance with a circuit powered on will give false readings and possibly damage the meter.

Ohms measures at the computer with the computer disconnected, or at the sensor with the sensor disconnected.
50 degrees F = 58.75 K ohms
68 degrees F = 37.30 K ohms
86 degrees F = 27.27 K ohms
104 degrees F = 16.15 K ohms
122 degrees F = 10.97 K ohms
140 degrees F = 7.60 K ohms
158 degrees F = 5.37 K ohms
176 degrees F = 3.84 K ohms
194 degrees F = 2.80 K ohms

With the ignition switch off, measure the resistance between the black/white wire on the MAP, ECT & ACT sensors and ground. It should be less than 1 ohm.

Code 81 – Secondary Air Injection Diverter Solenoid failure AM2. The solenoid valve located on the back side of the passenger side wheel well is not functional. Possible bad wiring, bad connections, missing or defective solenoid valve. Check the solenoid valve for +12 volts at the Red wire and look for the Lt Green/Black wire to switch from +12 volts to 1 volt or less. The computer controls the valve by providing a ground path on the LT Green/Black wire for the solenoid valve.

See http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88Stang5.0Vacuum.gif for help on the vacuum line plumbing.

Remove the large rubber hoses from the rear of the aft vacuum control valve. One hose goes to the pipe to the back of the heads. The other hose goes to the pipe that goes to the cat converters. Start the engine and apply vacuum (steal a line from the manifold somewhere) the airflow out of the valve should switch from one outlet to the other. If it doesn't then the vacuum control valve is bad.

With the engine running, stick a safety pin in the LT Green/Black wire for the solenoid valve & ground it. That should turn the solenoid on and cause air to flow out the port that goes to the pipe connected to the cats. If it doesn't, the valve is bad. If it does cause the airflow to switch, the computer or wiring going to the computer is not signaling the solenoid valve to open.

Code 82 – Secondary Air Injection Diverter Solenoid failure AM1. The dump valve air diverter valve (front vacuum operated valve) isn’t working on the Thermactor Air System (smog pump). Look for broken or missing vacuum lines on the solenoid valve to the diverter valve Check the solenoid valve for +12 volts at the Red wire and look for the Red/White wire to switch from +12 volts to 1 volt or less. The computer controls the valve by providing a ground path on the Red/White wire for the solenoid valve

 

[smokenda22s]

sorry about that....its a 91 gt