I'm now doubting the Kenne

Me personally, i think no power adder is the best way to go.
They are all going to add difficulty, cost, and lose a bit of reliability on a road track.
I don't care how you slice it, the KB on a 347 is never going to be all that great of a setup, you can only spin it so fast, intercooled or not. What's the point in running a supercharger if you aren't going to get big gains? Your 347 sounds like it's going to be capable of around 425rwhp NA set up correctly, so really, how much more are you going to get out of the kb? As i said above, i've never seen one even crack 500rwhp, lets assume you get that number, hardly worth the time effort or money for 75rwhp.

Maybe a solid lifter and cam setup, with some jesel rockers?
I post the question mark, because i truly don't know how that works out for road racing, but i've been in a 347 capable of 7500 rpm, that runs 10's all motor, and it's a pretty wicked setup.
But i don't know how it translates into a road course car.
Just throwing the idea out there.

i already have mechanical roller lifters and a mechanical cam on its way, i plan on the motor turning around 7k
 
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They dont weigh as much as you would think, and you can get a TEKSID aluminum block for cheap that will handle 750 hp. So your talking about 80lbs difference, but with the mod motor you will have the kind of HP you want with much less hassle, and theres many proven 750 hp mod motors with positive displacement blowers, but i've still yet to see anyone with a pushrod motor thats done it.

its a bit late to scrap my current engine platform, plus that will go in my termi im getting in january
 
Just a personal thought here. Do you really think you will be able to use what you have from just the 347 on the track? You should have enough torque from the motor alone coming off the turns. At that point, once the revs start coming up, the centri will get the job done.

i think that ANY power is usuable somewhere on the track, plus the torque arm does a fine job of planting the car coming out of the turns, im not saying no ones done a centri road race car, plenty of my friends are running there BB 65's with centri chargers and those cars will probably murder me in the straights on the track, so i need to toast em in the turns, plus im not sure why its not feasable to think i could get 180hp out of the kenne bell, motor is probably good for 430hp(ish) plus KB rates there units at makes 10-15hp per pound of boost, so an 18 psi kit, with an aftercooler and meth, while running on race gas should be able to run the 18psi efficient without harm, making the numbers around 600rwhp, with a high rev small block and a PD blower should make for an absolute animal anywhere, streets or track
 
i think that ANY power is usuable somewhere on the track, plus the torque arm does a fine job of planting the car coming out of the turns, im not saying no ones done a centri road race car, plenty of my friends are running there BB 65's with centri chargers and those cars will probably murder me in the straights on the track, so i need to toast em in the turns, plus im not sure why its not feasable to think i could get 180hp out of the kenne bell, motor is probably good for 430hp(ish) plus KB rates there units at makes 10-15hp per pound of boost, so an 18 psi kit, with an aftercooler and meth, while running on race gas should be able to run the 18psi efficient without harm, making the numbers around 600rwhp, with a high rev small block and a PD blower should make for an absolute animal anywhere, streets or track
I'm guessing you are getting your info from this page.

http://www.kennebell.net/techinfo/ford-techinfo/blowzilla-flowzilla.pdf

I'd much rather rely on independent sources. Which unfortunately for the KB are hard to come by.
Don't make the setup too hard or complex, or you may never get to enjoy the car, it will spend more time being fixed than driven.
 
I'm guessing you are getting your info from this page.

http://www.kennebell.net/techinfo/ford-techinfo/blowzilla-flowzilla.pdf

I'd much rather rely on independent sources. Which unfortunately for the KB are hard to come by.
Don't make the setup too hard or complex, or you may never get to enjoy the car, it will spend more time being fixed than driven.

ahhh but the real joy is in the journey not the destination, i dont believe the a2a with meth is a complex system
 
well ive been looking at real world dyno numbers from explorer forums and what not, seems to be the most ive seen anyone gain from a kenne bell was 121hp, putting me at 550hp(ish) though power curve is insane, i dont think i could warrant running the low of horsepower on my fancy dart block, is there any centri chargers that mimic power curves of the kenne bell pretty close, but still allow me to run around 750hp? thanks much, camshaft is set for a power curve of around 3k-7k, is there a centri charger that comes on around 2k?
 
is there a centri charger that comes on around 2k?

Theres no centrifigal thats gonna come on that low, but it really shouldnt matter cause when on a road course are you gonna be at 2000 rpms?

Start looking into Prochargers, I know the F-1c has a step ratio that allows it to ramp boost up quicker, and that unit will make your power goal on low boost
 
Theres no centrifigal thats gonna come on that low, but it really shouldnt matter cause when on a road course are you gonna be at 2000 rpms?

Start looking into Prochargers, I know the F-1c has a step ratio that allows it to ramp boost up quicker, and that unit will make your power goal on low boost

all the local tracks have a few hairpins it would be nice to tear through and not have to wind the car up
 
Turbos are absolutely terrible on a road course... don't even think about it. The kenne-bell is a terrible idea, too. They do not move enough air to reach your power goals, and the torque down low can actually be hard to control.

In all honesty, I would not be thinking about a power adder if I were in your shoes. The extra weight up front will negate in the corners any advantage that the power will make up in the straights unless you're running at Talledega, but if you're going to do it then I agree with 90lxcoupe; go with a centri. Too much low-end torque on a road course is going to be hard to control, but a centri will let the power come in the higher part of the powerband. You should not be thinking 2k rpm. With a motor that revs to 7k, you're never going to see less than 4500rpm.

Heat soak is going to hurt your consistency considerably. Think overkill on an intercooler. I can't imagine you'd have any preignition or detonation problems with a mixture of meth and race gas. Both have motor octanes in the 120 range, plus meth if injected into the intake tract will lower IATs.

Now to some other points in this thread:

S&B said:
I have a 331 YSI with VIC JR heads and it made right under 700HP with meth on pump gas at around 17lbs of boost. Its polished PM me if you want any details, Im looking to go with a turbo.

The only way to make 750+ is go with E85 and 160lbs injectors on the YSI or the Turbo.

Not really. I made 762rwhp on 93octane pump gas with 120lbs injectors and a 331 @ 14.5 psi.

im not sure why its not feasable to think i could get 180hp out of the kenne bell, motor is probably good for 430hp(ish) plus KB rates there units at makes 10-15hp per pound of boost, so an 18 psi kit, with an aftercooler and meth, while running on race gas should be able to run the 18psi efficient without harm, making the numbers around 600rwhp, with a high rev small block and a PD blower should make for an absolute animal anywhere, streets or track

First, that's not how boost works. The engine combination decides how much power you'll gain for each pound of boost. With a 400rwhp n/a motor like yours, you're going to pick up a lot more than 15 hp for each psi, well over 20 in fact. Second, Every power adder i've looked at becomes inefficient at some point. The efficiency of the power adder will depend on both the pressure and the volume of the air it's moving! So, while the KB might be efficient at 18psi on a motor moving less air than yours, it might run out of steam before it ever gets to 18psi on your motor. If you haven't seen a KB making over 500rwhp, that's why. It's also why you'll see turbos rated to a certain upper HP limit. That limit is the maximum volume of air that the turbo is going to push on an engine perfectly sized to take advantage of the turbo's boost efficiency range. If any of my understanding carries over to the KB blower you're looking at, you'll not likely make any more power than you've seen others make.

if you run race gas and meth together, you will run into preigniton
why?
 


because race fuel burns slower than normal fuel, and so does methanol. and too cool of an intake charge is not neccesarily a good thing. You can only run so much timing in a motor. There was an article i was reading in MM&FF a while back and when they switched to an air to air intercooler they were having preignition problems because the air temps were too low


theres no need on that setup to run race gas and methanol, if the motor was 11:1 compression running boost i could see mabye doing it, but this is nothing crazy, either a mix of pump/meth, or just straight race gas would work just fine
 
Yeah, I agree. Running meth might help to offset heat soak, but isn't necessary if he's running race fuel. Still, and no offense intended, that explanation just doesn't make any sense at all to me. Did you read that article online? Have a link?

I have a personal interest in understanding detonation. I've even read the old NACA articles that document detonation testing in the '40s and '50s. So, I'd really like to see what was going on in that test.

Chris
 
Yeah, I agree. Running meth might help to offset heat soak, but isn't necessary if he's running race fuel. Still, and no offense intended, that explanation just doesn't make any sense at all to me. Did you read that article online? Have a link?

I have a personal interest in understanding detonation. I've even read the old NACA articles that document detonation testing in the '40s and '50s. So, I'd really like to see what was going on in that test.

Chris

I think the article is right next to my throne at home, i will look at it tommorow, and get the full scoop on it.
 
because race fuel burns slower than normal fuel, and so does methanol. and too cool of an intake charge is not neccesarily a good thing. You can only run so much timing in a motor. There was an article i was reading in MM&FF a while back and when they switched to an air to air intercooler they were having preignition problems because the air temps were too low


theres no need on that setup to run race gas and methanol, if the motor was 11:1 compression running boost i could see mabye doing it, but this is nothing crazy, either a mix of pump/meth, or just straight race gas would work just fine

engine compression is 9.21:1
 
Turbos are absolutely terrible on a road course... don't even think about it. The kenne-bell is a terrible idea, too. They do not move enough air to reach your power goals, and the torque down low can actually be hard to control.

In all honesty, I would not be thinking about a power adder if I were in your shoes. The extra weight up front will negate in the corners any advantage that the power will make up in the straights unless you're running at Talledega, but if you're going to do it then I agree with 90lxcoupe; go with a centri. Too much low-end torque on a road course is going to be hard to control, but a centri will let the power come in the higher part of the powerband. You should not be thinking 2k rpm. With a motor that revs to 7k, you're never going to see less than 4500rpm.

Heat soak is going to hurt your consistency considerably. Think overkill on an intercooler. I can't imagine you'd have any preignition or detonation problems with a mixture of meth and race gas. Both have motor octanes in the 120 range, plus meth if injected into the intake tract will lower IATs.

Now to some other points in this thread:



Not really. I made 762rwhp on 93octane pump gas with 120lbs injectors and a 331 @ 14.5 psi.



First, that's not how boost works. The engine combination decides how much power you'll gain for each pound of boost. With a 400rwhp n/a motor like yours, you're going to pick up a lot more than 15 hp for each psi, well over 20 in fact. Second, Every power adder i've looked at becomes inefficient at some point. The efficiency of the power adder will depend on both the pressure and the volume of the air it's moving! So, while the KB might be efficient at 18psi on a motor moving less air than yours, it might run out of steam before it ever gets to 18psi on your motor. If you haven't seen a KB making over 500rwhp, that's why. It's also why you'll see turbos rated to a certain upper HP limit. That limit is the maximum volume of air that the turbo is going to push on an engine perfectly sized to take advantage of the turbo's boost efficiency range. If any of my understanding carries over to the KB blower you're looking at, you'll not likely make any more power than you've seen others make.

why?

ive taken a very considerable amount of weight off all areas of the car, i dont think the added weight from the supercharger is going to hurt me in the turns, now to the part about going N/A i just dont think i can get 600rwhp+ doing it all motor reliably
 
Turbos are absolutely terrible on a road course... don't even think about it. The kenne-bell is a terrible idea, too. They do not move enough air to reach your power goals, and the torque down low can actually be hard to control.

In all honesty, I would not be thinking about a power adder if I were in your shoes. The extra weight up front will negate in the corners any advantage that the power will make up in the straights unless you're running at Talledega, but if you're going to do it then I agree with 90lxcoupe; go with a centri. Too much low-end torque on a road course is going to be hard to control, but a centri will let the power come in the higher part of the powerband. You should not be thinking 2k rpm. With a motor that revs to 7k, you're never going to see less than 4500rpm.

Heat soak is going to hurt your consistency considerably. Think overkill on an intercooler. I can't imagine you'd have any preignition or detonation problems with a mixture of meth and race gas. Both have motor octanes in the 120 range, plus meth if injected into the intake tract will lower IATs.

Now to some other points in this thread:



Not really. I made 762rwhp on 93octane pump gas with 120lbs injectors and a 331 @ 14.5 psi.



First, that's not how boost works. The engine combination decides how much power you'll gain for each pound of boost. With a 400rwhp n/a motor like yours, you're going to pick up a lot more than 15 hp for each psi, well over 20 in fact. Second, Every power adder i've looked at becomes inefficient at some point. The efficiency of the power adder will depend on both the pressure and the volume of the air it's moving! So, while the KB might be efficient at 18psi on a motor moving less air than yours, it might run out of steam before it ever gets to 18psi on your motor. If you haven't seen a KB making over 500rwhp, that's why. It's also why you'll see turbos rated to a certain upper HP limit. That limit is the maximum volume of air that the turbo is going to push on an engine perfectly sized to take advantage of the turbo's boost efficiency range. If any of my understanding carries over to the KB blower you're looking at, you'll not likely make any more power than you've seen others make.

why?

I'm with you on the added nose weight.

Here's the bottom line bragging that you hang at 9" doesn't mean squat if you can't use it for getting down to business.

A dedicated road coarse car; if it were mine, would have the biggest brakes I could squeeze on the front and rear of it with adjustability, full suspension work with all urethane CC plates, most-likely all coilovers, major chassis stiffening/bracing both front and rear towers... Moly full cage with non removable side bars and goes through the firewall to the front towers, overkill for a cooling system, torque box kit, a baffled fuel tank/cell, best rubber on the lightest forged rims I could buy and then after all of this, I would look into building some power. Don't forget the lightweight seats with current 5 point harness.

Foxes are nose heavy. Manual rack, manual brakes, K member and a-arms, alum heads electic pump, fans, high rev clutch, quick release quad, TKO, alum shaft with two safety loops, and build an engine that will be in the 3500-7500 power range and tune an exhaust to compliment it.

There's plenty that I have left off, but all the power in the world won't compliment a poor chassis on a road course.

So I guess the real question is, do you want to brag about big hp, or respectable lap times?