In Need Of Some Guidance... ('67 Coupe Floors)

Discussion in '1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-' started by red'67coupe, Mar 19, 2014.


  1. red'67coupe

    red'67coupe New Member

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    Hi guys,
    I just acquired a '67 coupe that I'm about to start restoring. The body is great, but the floors and rails are not... My buddy's dad is great at welding and I'm not too worried about us boxing in the frame rails. But the floors have me worried. I'm kind of stuck between buying a full 1-piece floor pan, or buying a pan kit on cjponyparts. Besides the actual pans, another part what I believe is the floor support (the part that you can see under the car, beneath where your feet would be) is completely shot and is filled in with expanding foam. I figure I might as well save a little work and gain a little more strength and get a 1 piece pan. I also think it would be beneficial to have the floors out while boxing the frame in too.
    I guess my question is how to go about doing both these jobs. I know if I take the whole pan out I will have to support the body somehow so it won't bow, but can I replace the floor support while the floors are out? I've also been hearing that I can fit the 1-piece floor through the door window of a coupe and won't have to take any windshields out. Just wondering if that is correct also? I would really appreciate some info back. Thanks.
    -Tom
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  2. horse sence

    horse sence Please don't call me Mom SN Certified Technician

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    Save your self a lot of trouble and grinding and do the whole floor pan .You can go through the front window opening with it ,you will need to have the steering column out .The braces under the floor are called front floor supports, you can change them with the floor out . the problem is a 67 has one torque box and it covers one floor support .
    The frame rails are boxed so that is not needed . I have seen people fill these and other places with foam and it is a very bad idea,it holds in moisture and rots out even quicker .
    putting the car on jack stands is good enough to do the floors ,but level the car first .
    #2
  3. 66Coupe289POWER

    66Coupe289POWER Member

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    Be prepared to find more rust when you take it apart. Also look through horse sence's and rusty428cj's build threads to see how the car is put together. These guys know their stuff and do it right.
    #3
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  4. red'67coupe

    red'67coupe New Member

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    I've been talking to a guy from the cjpony parts shop. They seem to be wanting me to just buy the pan kit (do each side separately) and leave the trans tunnel in for support since it's in decent shape. They also want me to replace the drivers torque box and add one to the passenger side. I will definitely check out their build threads. The problem is that I can't see everything because the guy before my put floor patching on the entire underneath of the car... I really appreciate the info, I'll try and get some pictures up so everyone can see what I'm dealing with.
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  5. horse sence

    horse sence Please don't call me Mom SN Certified Technician

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    I would definitely do a full floor if it has had patches before ,it would be a night mare to try to remove the old patches and they probably used the full size of the patch so the new patches will hit right on the old welding ,it is actually easier to replace the full floor ,you will save your self a lot of work. Yes add the other torque box .In 68 up, Ford did torque boxes on both sides and i would recommend them on any year Mustang.
    #5
  6. red'67coupe

    red'67coupe New Member

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    I'm nervous about removing the whole floor and the car bowing. If i were to do this, what ways could i insure that any bowing or twisting won't happen?
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  7. red'67coupe

    red'67coupe New Member

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    Forgot to mention also that the engine and tranny are out of the car. I guess that would be a big factor about the car being under less stress when doing this job.
    #7

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