Inexpensive rebuild kit suggestions

CarFreakGT

Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
May 26, 2003
395
11
29
Louisville, KY
This summer and fall I'm looking to rebuild the front end of my 68 coupe. In doing so, I plan to yank the engine for convenience and ease of operation.

While it's out, I may take a shot at my first engine rebuild. I bought the car w/ a non-original 302 in it (1987 block), that has been sitting for several years. As it sits now, the car is not roadworthy.

Any suggestions for an inexpensive, basic rebuild kit? When I get the suspension in order, I would like to be able to get the car out on the road for easy drives/cruises. Drive it while I work on it, basically.

No, it won't be a daily driver or a vehicle that I have to depend on for regular transportation. I realize that it will be quite some time before I actually 'finish' (does that really ever happen? LOL) the car. But, I would like to think that I can drive it up to the corner station or grocery here and there to stretch its legs out.
 
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Do you have a budget in mind?

Are you looking for stock suspension components?

I just bought a rebuild kit for front and rear from open tracker for ~$1500. I opted for "better" than original components with mine though. If you want more info I can give you a breakdown.

Also, when you take everything apart, closely examine the state of your shock towers. Look for cracking/damaging/previous patch welding jobs. I just finished ripping out my front suspension only to find both towers need replacing. My car is a 67 and yours looks like a 65/66. It seems from what I hear most of these strut tower issues occur on the 67/68 cars but I would double check anyway. Replacing the towers looks much easier when you have the engine out already.

Hope this helps :nice:
 
Pyro--I do plan to do a 'better than stock' rebuild of the front end. I have been gradually collecting pieces, and have talked to opentracker a couple of times. (GREAT guy!) It's been quite a while since I last spoke w/ him, because some plans changed on my end that affected the car budget. The car will be a weekend cruiser, but I'm prone to 'spirited' driving. :D No, not street racing or anything unsafe, but I like to know that I can take a hard turn w/o fear of losing it.

I would love to hear what you have put together for your ride. So far, I have Opentracker roller perches, Edelbrock IAS shocks, and 620 springs. Next up is to decide which UCA and LCA to go with. I do plan to do the Shelby drop as well.

I also have power steering, but it is in poor condition. Trying to decide if I may just go w/o it.

D. Hearne--You are correct, sir! :D Mine is a 68 coupe.

On a separate note--What are you guys' thoughts on an inexpensive engine rebuild kit? While it's out, I wouldn't mind spending a couple to a few hundred to do a basic rebuild for dependability. I may put more into the engine down the road, but that's a ways off. Right now, I'm just looking to get it running dependably and safely so that I can take my wife and boys out for nice weather rides.

I currently have a 302 w/ 2 barrel carb. But, I have managed to acquire a Weiand Stealth manifold and Holley 4-barrel.

Thanks, guys!

Bryan
 
Do you have a budget in mind?

Are you looking for stock suspension components?

I just bought a rebuild kit for front and rear from open tracker for ~$1500. I opted for "better" than original components with mine though. If you want more info I can give you a breakdown.

LOL--Just realized that I didn't really answer your question about budget. I'd say I could go $1000-1500 on top of the parts I mentioned above. Again, I'd love to see a breakdown of what you chose, and I feel that I couldn't go wrong w/ Opentracker parts and/or recommendations.



Also, when you take everything apart, closely examine the state of your shock towers. Look for cracking/damaging/previous patch welding jobs. I just finished ripping out my front suspension only to find both towers need replacing. My car is a 67 and yours looks like a 65/66. It seems from what I hear most of these strut tower issues occur on the 67/68 cars but I would double check anyway. Replacing the towers looks much easier when you have the engine out already.

Hope this helps :nice:
Thanks for this tip. Mine is a 68, so I will take notice of the towers while I'm in there.
 
Ok so my kit is as follows

- Upper Control Arms from ORP
- Roller Spring Perches
- 620 lb 1" drop Grab-A-Trak front springs
- KYB Front Shocks
- Grab-A-Trak Rear Shocks
- 1/4" Poly Coil spring insulators
- Strut Rod Bushings
- Steering Rebuild Kit with Roller Idler Arm (Moog parts)
- 1" Front Sway Bar Kit
- Grab-A-Trak 4.5 Mid eye 1" drop leaf springs with new U-Bolt, front eye bolt and rear shackle kit
- Shelby drop template

My lower control arms are less than 5 years old so I opted not to replace them just yet. Right now they are of the stock variety. I'm considering in the future of reinforcing the upper and lower arms and converting them to rollers. But for now I'm going to see how the car drives with these parts.

I haven't yet got everything in so I can't comment on how it drives yet. I pulled everything off this weekend and cleaned up only to find a massive crack in my shock tower so my suspension rebuild will be on hiatus until I replace the towers :(
 
Look at the CCP setup for the front end.
Disc Brake, Steering and Suspension Products for classic Chevy and Ford cars and trucks

Scroll down to the bottom for Mustang applications. Get a set of Open Tracker roller perches. Front end done.

Ok so my kit is as follows

- Upper Control Arms from ORP
- Roller Spring Perches--got 'em!
- 620 lb 1" drop Grab-A-Trak front springs--I have 620# springs!
- KYB Front Shocks--I have some front shocks
- Grab-A-Trak Rear Shocks
- 1/4" Poly Coil spring insulators
- Strut Rod Bushings
- Steering Rebuild Kit with Roller Idler Arm (Moog parts)--I was considering this already, too
- 1" Front Sway Bar Kit--already planning on this
- Grab-A-Trak 4.5 Mid eye 1" drop leaf springs with new U-Bolt, front eye bolt and rear shackle kit
- Shelby drop template--part of the plan, too

I pulled everything off this weekend and cleaned up only to find a massive crack in my shock tower so my suspension rebuild will be on hiatus until I replace the towers :(

Thanks for the suggestions and feedback, guys. I like your list, pyro. As you can see, it looks like you and I have similar thoughts on our suspension parts. Sorry to hear about your shock tower. Hope it doesn't ice your plans for too long.

RUSTY--Thanks for the link. I definitely plan to check out the packages on that site. Much appreciated!

My rear suspension plans are up in the air right now. I am researching and weighing the option of an Explorer rear end. My current rear/diff is in need of significant repair, and all options are open right now. This will also have to be addressed, though, before the car is roadworthy.
 
You have a 67 so I'm guessing you have a small block V8. 620s are too heavy a spring rate. I have 620s in my 67 and I want to get rid of them. The problem is that the flex in the strut rod area seems to really screw up handling so people put in the heavier spring to compensate for that. If you want to save some money then get the CCP lower arm kit only and Open tracker roller spring perch and rebuild the upper arm you have with a fresh ball joint. Some 520 springs would be good. I think Open tracker sells them with a 1" drop at 520 rate. Front end will handle nice and the spring rate wont beat on you. If you have a big block then 620 might be proper.
 
Thanks for the suggestions and feedback, guys. I like your list, pyro. As you can see, it looks like you and I have similar thoughts on our suspension parts. Sorry to hear about your shock tower. Hope it doesn't ice your plans for too long.

RUSTY--Thanks for the link. I definitely plan to check out the packages on that site. Much appreciated!

My rear suspension plans are up in the air right now. I am researching and weighing the option of an Explorer rear end. My current rear/diff is in need of significant repair, and all options are open right now. This will also have to be addressed, though, before the car is roadworthy.

Yep, when I talked to John I told him I wanted just about the same performance and capability out of my car that you want. I hope to do semi-occasional road track days with it too.

I have a friend locally who has been customizing Explorer rear ends to bolt into our classic Mustangs recently. I think he's completed one for is 69 fastback and has 4 or 5 others he's going to do the same to. I think they are an excellent choice for our cars if you want to work on a budget. Huge variety of final drive ratios, LSD available, rear disc brakes and good axles. I'm thinking of doing the same on mine eventually.

You have a 67 so I'm guessing you have a small block V8. 620s are too heavy a spring rate. I have 620s in my 67 and I want to get rid of them. The problem is that the flex in the strut rod area seems to really screw up handling so people put in the heavier spring to compensate for that. If you want to save some money then get the CCP lower arm kit only and Open tracker roller spring perch and rebuild the upper arm you have with a fresh ball joint. Some 520 springs would be good. I think Open tracker sells them with a 1" drop at 520 rate. Front end will handle nice and the spring rate wont beat on you. If you have a big block then 620 might be proper.

In my parts list I said I bought a 620 lb spring, which I bought via Open Tracker. However on his website it is listed as a 560 lb spring. When I asked John about the difference between his 560 lb spring vs. the 620 lb spring he told me that the 620 isn't actually the spring rate it's the wire used in the spring and that the 560 and 620 spring are the same thing. I'm still a little confused about this because everywhere I look the 620 spring is advertised with a spring rate of 620 lb/in. Maybe I heard wrong, can anyone clarify?
 
I've heard that from John before too. I think he knows what he is talking about. I wouldn't doubt if he was correct. All I know is that I've talked to a lot of different people and John is the only one that refers to them that way. Not at all saying he is wrong however.