Installed Aluminum Radiator

[iskwezm]

100* is pretty hot...

Might be time to look into a pusher style electric fan to put in front of your rad. You can operate it manually with a switch for hot days..

36* is fairly typical for a performance tuned small-block.

Initial timing is set by twisting your distributor while measureing the timing with your timing light. Do it at idle with the vacum hose pulled off of your distributor (block it so you don't have a vacum leak).

Generally you want initial timing to be about 10*-12*

already got a pusher and a puller.

I know a decent amount of stuff,but if set initial at idle(no Vac adv.),does that change your total?Some guy told me to run 32*-34* on a stroker,but doesnt that differ with cams,heads etc.

 

[ForceFed70]

Yes the timing will change with engine mods. Mostly changes in compression. It'll also differ with the octane rating of the fuel you use.

Yes, changing you initial timing will effect your total timing.
Total timing = initial advance + vac advance + mechanical advance

I just noticed in you sig that you run a supercharger. This will definately effect your timing because in essence it increases your compression ratio.

You pretty much want to ensure that your timing isn't so far advanced that it causes pinging. If your engine isn't pinging, then your probably OK for timing.

 

[1965-Mustang]

It seems I have a similar situation as you iskwezm. It will slowly rise in temp until 180 and the t-stat will open and it will stay around 190-200 then slowly rise. It stays at 200-210 going 25 mph and maybe a little lower at 50 mph but have not gone that fast for more than a few minutes yet. Right now I am thinking it is just running to lean. I cant get a consistant idle rpm and when I mash the gas at idle it will try to stall but will stay running. If I mash it twice quickly it dies. I could not seem to fix it by adjusting the demons 4-corner idle circuit or idle screw either. Do these carbs have a slow speed needle or anything? Is it the squirter? I will also look at a new fuel filter if that could be it? However I did get it to not have a stumble if I mashed the gas at about 1500-2000 rpms. I am taking it to the shop in two days but am trying to fix some of it myself. I also got the timing set at 10 degrees before TDC with my light and no pinging so I think that is fine.

 

[iskwezm]

It seems I have a similar situation as you iskwezm. It will slowly rise in temp until 180 and the t-stat will open and it will stay around 190-200 then slowly rise. It stays at 200-210 going 25 mph and maybe a little lower at 50 mph but have not gone that fast for more than a few minutes yet. Right now I am thinking it is just running to lean. I cant get a consistant idle rpm and when I mash the gas at idle it will try to stall but will stay running. If I mash it twice quickly it dies. I could not seem to fix it by adjusting the demons 4-corner idle circuit or idle screw either. Do these carbs have a slow speed needle or anything? Is it the squirter? I will also look at a new fuel filter if that could be it? However I did get it to not have a stumble if I mashed the gas at about 1500-2000 rpms. I am taking it to the shop in two days but am trying to fix some of it myself. I also got the timing set at 10 degrees before TDC with my light and no pinging so I think that is fine.

sounds like were both there.I had custom carb built,so i know its running rich(built for the blower,not on yet)but I HATE A HOT RUNNING CAR.I went through this with my .060 289 now again.

 

[classic boost]

the head gaskets may be installed backwards.

 

[grego37]

if you dont have an issue with running too hot at idle , or under 25mph. I'd take off the pusher fan and see if it helps the situation. It might be restricting the air flow at 25mph+

Do you know the dia. of your crank pulley and waterpump pulley?
You dont have underdrive pulleys on it , do you?

 

[iskwezm]

the head gaskets may be installed backwards.

i doubt it,if they were backwards,it would overheat very fast.Plus the long block was assembled by a race engine building compny.Thats a beginners mistake.It just heats up,not instantly.

 

[1965-Mustang]

When I bought the rebuilt engine it did have aluminum pulleys and when I got it running I read about underdrive pulleys. So I took the water pump pulley off and put it up next to my original water pump pulley and the original was actually a larger diameter so I put the old one on and have used it since. The crank pulley is also an aluminum one but I did not switch that one out :/ .

I have now adjusted the 4 idle circuit screws to 2 1/2 turns out on all of them and it seems to run better however the idle will rise to 2000 rpms. So I adjusted the idle screw to no avail, I tried so many times with that screw and the car will either die or will idle at 2000 rpms. This is a symtom of a vacuum leak correct? Looks like I will go test some more with carb cleaner.

 

[iskwezm]

if you dont have an issue with running too hot at idle , or under 25mph. I'd take off the pusher fan and see if it helps the situation. It might be restricting the air flow at 25mph+

Do you know the dia. of your crank pulley and waterpump pulley?
You dont have underdrive pulleys on it , do you?

stock chrome pulleys,I turned the fans off on the freeway doing about65 and it ran a little warmer.

 

[iskwezm]

This is a symtom of a vacuum leak correct? Looks like I will go test some more with carb cleaner.

possible,but a vac leak will also cause a rolling idle that wont adjust.

 

[1965-Mustang]

Do you mean like a hunting idle rpm? Because the tach needle will go up and down and eventually settles on 2000 rpms.
I just sprayed the base of the carb on the drivers side where it connects with the intake and the car sputterd and died with a bunch of carb cleaner. I tried snugging the four bolts but only the two drivers side bolts turned a little, they are tight and I do not want to risk overtightening, for obvious reasons, I have snapped one to many bolt heads working on this thing already.

 

[grego37]

thats Good news.
sounds like you have a leak.
Try replacing your carb gasket, torque the 4 screws evenly, cross ways.

On a street driven car, for best cooling results, your waterpump pulley should be smaller in dia. than your crank pulley. overdriving the waterpump .Depending upon what type of driving you do and who you talk to , you may get reccomendations from:
same dia. as crank pulley
1/2" smaller than crank pulley
1" smaller than crank pulley
1.5" smaller than crank pulley.

Race applications are a totally different ball game, Most race cars do a short 1/4 mile burst, or buzz from 4000-8500 rpm (circle track etc) Where thier waterpump ratio is totally different.

If you're intrerested whats best for your app. I'd call Jones Racing Products, or Stewart components, just dont call March.

 

[iskwezm]

.


If you're intrerested whats best for your app. I'd call Jones Racing Products, or Stewart components, just dont call March.

Actually March does a water pump pulley for extra cooling.After all the pissed off customers from dead batteries and over heating,they decided to fix their own mistake.

 

[1965-Mustang]

I will take off the carb and replace the gasket then...Should not be that hard and great if it fixes things! Should I use gasket sealer on the carb gasket?

 

[iskwezm]

I will take off the carb and replace the gasket then...Should not be that hard and great if it fixes things! Should I use gasket sealer on the carb gasket?

naw,just a fresh thick gasket

 

[latamud]

sounds like were both there.I had custom carb built,so i know its running rich(built for the blower,not on yet)but I HATE A HOT RUNNING CAR.I went through this with my .060 289 now again.

I had the same problem after installing my first supercharger. I jetted the carb like Craig told me and it was still heating up. If you still have the problem with your new carb then you probably not running hot due to being lean. Like someone else said, your head gaskets might be on backwards. Or, the thermostat might be sticking. You can see the thermostat open if you leave the radiator cap off, run the engine, and watch the water flow.

 

[mdjay]

I have a lot bigger of a radiator but mine runs about 210 after driving for 5-10 minutes, but it doesn't move from there. Just sticks, doesn't warm up, doesn't cool down. Stop, go wait go to sleep. Doesn't move. This is in mid 80 temp range right now. I idled for 45 minutes leaving the Knotts show this year, didn't budge. I would pull the pusher fan though. It may work when you're stopped, but it blocks air when you drive. So the car can't cool itself off naturally.

 

[iskwezm]

Well i got my core support cut out and radiator mocked up,just need to weld tabs tomorrow and figure out the hose lengths.

Man i hope thise works,or at least makes it better

 

[HistoricMustang]

Make sure you have a SPRING in that bottom radiator hose!

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

 

[mdjay]

Well i got my core support cut out and radiator mocked up,just need to weld tabs tomorrow and figure out the hose lengths.

Man i hope thise works,or at least makes it better

Now that looks more like it

What Historic said is a classic boo boo!