Installed my 70mm Edel Throttle Body (had 65mm)

....and it feels noticably LESS snappy than my 65mm FMS :bs:

I've never had technical advice on this subject or cared to get involved in any of the conversations or debates, so dont ban me yet :ban:

After the swap last night, I can push the gas pedal down MUCH further before I get the same type of response as I did previously. Once I get to 3000-3500 rpm I can't really tell the difference, but the lower end feels mushy to me now. With that being said though, the match from my tb to elbow to intake is much better...

I will most likely be swapping back, but I have some MAF and CAI tasks to finish first. When I'm done and retuned I will make my final decision after retrying both again.
 
  • Sponsors (?)


If we get banned for staying out of those debates/discussions add me to the list. LOL

It's interesting to see your results from your swap though. I went to the 75mm from the 65mm but I also changed the entire engine combo at the same time. :p So I won't be much help here either.
 
I went from an accufab 65mm to an accufab 75mm a few years ago when I had a 302 as recommended by Ed Curtis @ FTI and my throttle response was fine. Could also be that the fms is a better quality than the edelbrock so it may not feel the same. Doesn't mean you lost power (you didn't)
 
did u put the throttle return spring back on? throttle cable installed correctly?

Yes I hope so! I check and double checked....then checked again. I know I didn't lose power, in fact I probably picked up a couple. I'm simply noting the way that the accelerator feels under my foot during normal street driving.

Again I have no opinions about the science behind the way the air gets from outside into the intakes. :dead:


:SNSign:
 
I have FMS 65mm throttle body and came with new sensors...i was going to go 70mm but after hearing this...i might just stay with 65mm. i am not gonna need more then that on a street anyways...
 
Try this, it will fine tune your idle and reset you TPS:

Begin with a cold vehicle. The idea here is to get the car to a firm cold idle with enough air bleed capacity left in the idle circuit for IAC adjustment.

The idle stop should be set first. Back out the idle stop screw, away from the bell crank arm, until about 1/2 turn past the point where it no longer makes contact (blade fully closed). Using a 0.010" feeler gauge, tighten until gauge just drags between screw and bell crank arm. Remove feeler gauge. Tighten screw exactly 1 1/2 turns. If the screw is very loose, put a drop of loc-tite or silicone on it, so it doesn't work out of adjustment.

Now remove the connector to the Idle Air Controller (IAC) just on the other side of the throttle body. Start the car and allow vehicle to warm for 2 minutes. Give a small "blip" to let it settle. If it is having a hard time staying running you may have to get an assistant until you can get to the front of the car. Now open or close the air bleed screw (CCW opens) next to the IAC until the car idles at 575 to 600 rpm. For guys with aftermarket cams and an EEC tuner, you might want to idle a bit more briskly, say 650 to 675.

Obviously, this rpm range is by what the car and driver wants...IE, no set idle speed, whatever works for YOU.

Turn off the car. Now count the number of turns clockwise to close on the idle air bleed screw. If it falls between 1/2 and 2, it's okay, now reverse it out the same number of turns. Log the number somewhere in case you need it for the future. Reconnect the IAC. You are done.

If the air bleed screw is above 2 turns, it's a good idea to tighten the idle stop screw another 1/2 turn, and then repeat the idle setting. If it is below 1/2 turn, then loosen the idle stop screw by 1/4 to 1/2 a turn, and repeat the idle setting. Be sure to put another drop of silicone RTV on the stop screw if it was disturbed. Reconnect the IAC.

Now remember we adjusted the set screw on the throttle body. That means that the voltage reading from the TPS sensor has changed. It should read between .96 and .99 volts. Anything outside of that range will cause all sorts of issues including misfires and rough idle.

you will have to back probe the TPS connector. With the connector attached to the TPS stick a paper clip into the rubber boot on the connector where the top and middle wires go into the connector. The rubber is very flexible the paper clip will slide in between the rubber and the wire.

Set your multimeter to volts. Turn ignition to ON. Then place your multimeter leads on the metal pins. If it comes up as a negative that is okay as long as you are -.96 to -.99. If you get this reading then great you are done and hopefully your issues are gone. If not proceed to step 9

This is where and extra pair of hands come in handy. Using a large screw driver you will need to loosen the bolts that hold the TPS. DO NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER THAT IS TOO SMALL BECAUSE YOU WILL STRIP THE BOLTS. They probably will be really tight so you have to really lean on the screwdriver and use some finesse.

Once the bolts are loose you will need to move the TPS up or down and continue to read the voltage. Once you get it to the desired setting you can retighten the bolts. What I do is I find .97 and then as carefully as possible I tighten the TPS down. what will happen is the voltage will change usually to .96 or .98 but that it okay. Once you are done with this manually open the throttle body a few times and close it then reread the voltage and make sure it is still within our desired range.

Depending upon how loose your set screw was you might want to cover it in RTV to hold your setting. At this point you have CORRECTLY reset you idle.