I just purchased some FRPP C springs from Mustang Tuning and was just wondering the easiest way to install them. I know that there are directions at Mustang World, and was just wondering if this would be the easiest way to do it. I would also like some helpful hints. Thanks for any help you can give!
Installing Lowering Springs
- Thread starter Stus99GT
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Roush97
Founding Member
i used the right up here on stangnet the first time i did it...since that ive been able to do several with no instructions...just like riding a bike lol...dont bother with a spring compressor, use the method in the right up here on stangnet take your time and you cant go wrong
daver01
Founding Member
the back took me and a buddy like 20 minutes it get the springs out, and the new ones in. 4 bolts.......Unbolt one of the quad shock bolts, and one of the shock bolts and the axle will hang low enough to pull the springs out.......the front is a little more difficult I tryed using an Inside spring compressor dont bother with that.....you might want to try an outside compressor......but we just ended up using a shovel and our feet......but the hardest part is getting the strut bolt holes lined back up..........
Dave
Dave
normster6969
Founding Member
Daves4.6GT said:
Here's how I did the front...
Make sure your car is securily jacked up on jack stands. Unbolt the sway bar from the a-arm. Place your floor jack under the a-arm. Raise it up a little. Remove the top strut bolt in the engine bay. SLOWLY lower the a-arm using your floor jack, making sure all connections to the a-arm aren't strained (e.g., brake lines, ABS sensor cable, etc.). Once you reach full droop, the spring will still be in place. Place a moving blanket (or other padding) in front of the spring. "Boing" the spring out using a pry bar. After you install your new springs, you won't have to pry the spring out since it's much shorter when uncompressed. The stock springs are the hassle... I learned this trick from a guy who has changed out springs on Stangs a few times.
The first time is always scary. It took me a while. However, when I added my Bilsteins up front, I knew what to do and it only took me an hour to replace both struts in front the second time around.
If you feel unconfortable doing the job and/or you don't have the proper tools (e.g., jack stands, floor jacks, etc.), I suggest that you seek professional help. Springs under load are very dangerous and could either damage your vehicle or hurt/kill you if you don't know what you're doing.
Good luck!
Norm
kirkyg
Founding Member
Are you saying just use a blanket to protect the spring from coming out full force into someone's face? Your wording was a little wierd. It makes it sound like there is some special kind of blanket you use etc.
Sounds easy enough especially the back.
kirkyg
Sounds easy enough especially the back.
kirkyg
hognutz
New Member
it is very easy to do. the only tricky part is make sure you take the right bolts on the calipure loose. take off the whole assembly. I didn't read any guides and took the calipure off the braket by accident. not a big deal but I wasted 10-15min screwing around with that.
4 jackstands, floor jack, rachet, metric sockets. very easy. did shocks, struts, springs, cc plates in about 4hours.
those directions posted about look great. they would have saved me some time on my brake calipure screw up.
4 jackstands, floor jack, rachet, metric sockets. very easy. did shocks, struts, springs, cc plates in about 4hours.
those directions posted about look great. they would have saved me some time on my brake calipure screw up.
normster6969
Founding Member
kirkyg said:
Once your a-arm is at full droop, the front spring is still under slight compression. I clipped the moving blanket inside the front part of the fender well and tied a rope around the spring and the a-arm to keep the spring from shooting out too far. The purpose of the moving blanket to provide padding, hopefully preventing any damage to my car if the spring hit the fender-well with any force. Next, I used a pry bar to push the spring out of its seat in the a-arm.
I used a moving blanket since it was handy, thick, and padded. You can use anthing you want.
The point is, you want to minimze the chance of damaging your car and/or yourself when you pry the spring out.
On a side note, I started the process using a spring compressor. Those things are dangerous! I had my spring fully compress and ready to be removed. My wrench tapped the spring, allowing the compressor to shift. Talk about a loud bang! Needless to say, that's when I when to plan B!
Good luck,
Norm
kirkyg
Founding Member
AHH your talking about the rubber stuff that hangs down in back of the suspension. Where do you cut it and why do you need to cut it?
kirkyg
kirkyg
normster6969
Founding Member
hognutz said:
Now that I remember back, I did remove my brake caliper to allow the A-arm to go to full droop. Just hang the caliper in the wheel well using a metal hook, wire (e.g., bent coathanger), etc. to get it out of the way.
hognutz
New Member
hognutz
New Member
totally unessassary. just lower the a-arm down all the way and pry the spring out. it doesn't shoot anywhere. just pops right out. it is not under any reall compression at that point. as long as you have a jack under the a arm before you losen the strut you are fine.
hognutz
New Member
totally unessassary. just lower the a-arm down all the way and pry the spring out. it doesn't shoot anywhere. just pops right out. it is not under any reall compression at that point.
normster6969
Founding Member
hognutz said:
When I removed my stock spring, there was enough compression to make them shoot out, even with the a-arm at full droop. Now it wasn't with huge force, but it was with enough force to ding the lip of my fender well if I didn't have the moving blanket in place. The rope was definitely overkill, but I figured it's always better to be safe than sorry...
Now my aftermarket springs actually fall out due to their shorter stance. Front-end suspension work is much easier/safer now!
I'll try to post some pictures of my car with the front end taken apart for reference. Unfortunately, I'm at work... (obviously not working though...)
hognutz
New Member
normster6969 said:
did you pry at the top of the spring? I used a screwdriver right where the bottom spring meets the a-arm. when that pops loose all of the energy pushes towards the ground and they just fell out. now if you did it the other way the spring could shoot upward.
normster6969
Founding Member
jegg said:
I installed cc plates at the same time so I took the top off.
hognutz said:
I did it at the bottom. However, my stock springs still had enough stored energy to pop forward and down. As the spring popped out it hit the fenderwell...
Stus99GT,
The job isn't that hard. If you've got the right tools and you don't rush yourself, you can be done in a less than a couple of hours. Just remember that compressed springs store lots of energy. Make sure your floor jacks are secure and properly seated before you start releaving any pressure.
On a side note, you may want to consider CC plates and a pinion snubber designed for lowered cars. Regardless, get an alignment at a shop with a modern alignment rack a couple days after the install.
Good luck and enjoy your non-4x4 Mustang.
Norm
jeffnoel
Founding Member
I just installed my C springs last weekend in 3 hours by myself.
http://www.yellowmustangregistry.com/vogtland.html these are the instructions I followed.
http://www.yellowmustangregistry.com/vogtland.html these are the instructions I followed.
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