Is It Easier To Put The Engine And T5 In Seperate, Or Attach Them, Then Put It In?

[Redwolff64]

I am getting ready to do my first tranny swap, and I am replacing the engine at the same time. I am taking out a beaten up I6 and C4, and putting in a better I6 and T5. My question is, is it easier to drop both the original engine and tranny, then put the new engine in, then the new tranny, or is it easier to attach them together, then drop them in?

 

[iskwezm]

I have did it both ways and removeing, the engine is easier by itself.To put back back, its easier with the engine bolted to the tranny..But i have also pulled the tranny alone too.

 

[Redwolff64]

Iskwezm, do you mean take the engine out, then the tranny?

 

[iskwezm]

yeah, it depends on if i was doing it alone or i had another set of hands to help.

 

[Redwolff64]

I will be doing it alone. I assume it will be easier to take them out seperate. Another question on taking them out. I am scrapping the original tranny, so can I just let it drop, or will it be easier to get the some small jack and use that? I don';t have access to a lift, just jack and jackstands. As far as putting it in, will it be easier to hook them together and put it in, that way I can use the engine hoist to position the tranny while I hook it in?

 

[68stang351]

I have done it both ways and for me it was way easier to install them together. One time I put the engine in with the trans already in the car, it was a pain in the ass.

What I end up doing now is pulling the engine by itself, then the trans later, and installing them together. That's just the easiest way IMO.

 

[2+2GT]

Installing both together is how Ford did it, and if both are being replaced you should do it that way, too. You will need a helper, though.

I'm a little surprised you propose trashing a hard-to-find Mustang C4 transmission, though.

 

[Hack]

I prefer separately, but I don't have tools like a lift or raised areas like a factory production line. I've done it both ways and I end up scratching something or bumping something when I do them together, even with someone helping. I think if you have the right tools and you get the car up, especially the rear of the car should be quite high - then installing them together can go pretty well. With basic or minimal tools I recommend separately, especially if you'll be upset if you end up scratching the car or if you haven't done this before. It's just a lot easier to handle one component at a time.

For installing a manual transmission, here are some tips:

• Put a spare driveshaft yoke in the output. This way you can fill the trans with fluid before installation. It also helps the trans to slide in very easily (see below).
• Install the bell housing by itself first before the transmission.
• Go to the hardware store and buy two extra bolts with the same threads as the case to bellhousing bolts. Cut off the bolt heads and grind a taper into these bolts. Install the bolts in the bottom two bellhousing bolts. This will help a ton because the bolts are an easy target to see, plus once you get the transmission onto the bolts they will support it while you push the transmission into the engine the last few inches.
• When you install the clutch hold the installation tool just slightly angled up, because gravity wants to pull the clutch components down. Usually the alignment tool is not quite as large as the input shaft. The alignment tool should slip in and out with almost zero resistance if the clutch is aligned properly. Good alignment will really help the input of the trans go into the clutch and pilot.
• Install a pilot roller bearing rather than a bushing into the crank. It will last longer.
• When you install the trans, leave it in first gear. Then when you are putting the trans onto the two tapered bolts in the bellhousing, they will help align and support the trans. As you get close, turn the driveshaft yoke. This will help to align the splines on the transmission input shaft with the splines in the clutch disk. This really helps a lot with trouble free installation. Other people hook up the clutch and have a helper push in the clutch - this takes the load off the clutch disk and helps if you didn't get it well aligned with the alignment tool and you didn't put a yoke in the trans. My way you can do it alone and you don't have someone climbing in an out of the car when it's on jackstands and you're laying under it.

I hope this is helpful. I've done a lot of manual transmission installs and with these tips it goes really fast and easily.

 

[Redwolff64]

2+2GT, your saying a C4 with one foot in the grave is actually worth something? If it is, I will put it up for sale, but I thought more people were going from C4 to T5, not the other way around. I didn't think anyone would even want it.

 

[rbohm]

if you have a helper, it is easier to install the engine and trans together. if you are doing it yourself then it is easier to install them separately.

 

[horse sence]

i always install at the same time as a unit ,it is much easier to stab the trans out of the
car instead of doing it from under the car.trying to hold the trany up and stab it at the same time can get a trany on your head even using a floor jack,the bolts are much easier to get at out of the car as well. use moving blankets draped around the engine compartment to keep out scratches ,take your time ,grab a buddy for help one man install is hard no mater what

 

[Redwolff64]

One other thing I should ask. The T5 I am putting in is from a ford ranger. Not sure of the year. This is going to be more of a bandaid than a permant fix, just need to save up for an engine rebuild and stronger tranny. Will this tranny work in my 66 mustang?

 

[woodsnake]

If you are going from/too an I6, it should be fine. Just don't be doing a lot of hole shots or rolling smoking burn outs....

 

[2+2GT]

2+2GT, your saying a C4 with one foot in the grave is actually worth something? If it is, I will put it up for sale, but I thought more people were going from C4 to T5, not the other way around. I didn't think anyone would even want it.

Around here a rebuildable Mustang C4 core runs around $200. Heck, just the floor shift lever in the side could be worth up to $75 all by itself.

 

[65fastbackresto]

I had to cut my shifter hole out a little bit in front to get my T-5 to sit right. I think most people have the same issue, your gonna have to test fit it to see where and how much to take out.

 

[v8only]

guess its where u live..my c4 core doesn't fetch $50 here...no one wants them anymore...
Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

 

[robbz28]

I want to just put my .02 in. I removed and replace both of mine at the same time by myself. I had very little issues. I also have a nice chain hoist with an adjustable pitch engine lift. I was able to angle the engine to make it slide in and out like it was supposed to. I had to have the car up on jack stands so the tail shaft wouldnt hit the ground. When going back in I slipped a welding glove over the tail shaft so it wouldnt scuff my firewall. I too am interested in seeing what you go with, because I plan on swapping my c4 for a T5 this coming fall and wondering should i just pull the whole thing or just the tranny. Good luck, and a helper is definately worth paying a 6 pack to have around.

 

[horseballz]

A lot of it depends on what bell housing you are using. If using a late style bell, with the clutch fork pivot/fulcrum on the passenger side, it a total BIATCH to stab the transmission without knocking the fork/pivot retainer clip off the stud. I have found that if using this setup (and doing it from under the car), it is much easier/more effective to have the bell and fork attached to the trans before stabbing and guiding it on two long-ish all thread dowels in the lower bell housing bolt holes of the block. On the other hand you avoid all that drama by attaching trans to engine before installing. My only concern would be that the I-6 is a bit longer and would definitely need at least the rear of the car jacked up as high as you could get it.
Gene