This is my second time doing the brakes in about year and a half. This is my problem The bracket that goes onto the rear calipers with the pins in it gets screwed up. The damn pins get seized in there. WTF?? I replaced the one side bracket MADE SURE they were sealed and greased up and i pulled them off yestersday and they were stuck. The other side i couldnt even get one out. Thats another 50 bux at the dealership for the bracket plus 8 for the pins. At least i got my warranty for the rotors and pads.
the rear calipers don't push in.. they turn in there should be to holes on the side of the piston, you can go to autozone or advance auto and get a tool to turn the piston back in, or you can just use a pair of needle nose pliars also, if your brakes pads are pretty worn, take off the master cylinder cap to allow excess fluid to escape rather than building up pressure in the system
Thank you 98, stang for knowing something about locking Calipers. You need a special tool to turn the rear calipers. Your piston basically screws backwards into the bore. The best way to do this is to park your car and do not engage the PB! Then wiggle the caliper till you can remove one pad at a time. If neccessary you can use a c-clamp to apply very "Light" pressure to push the piston back just a hair if its impossible to get your calipers off the pads. All though this is all basically what Stang said before
Not sure if you'll have harbor freight tools stores where ya live. Here is jacksonville we have one. They sell the Caliper brake tool kits for 39.99 reg. price. They have on sale for the next couple of weeks for 19.99. I ran down and grabbed one this past weekend. Beats pepboys price of 64.99. Also have a question. Just picked up a 96 v6. The back left wheel has a squel to it so i jacked it up to check it out. When i spin the wheel it binds in certain places. Took the wheel off and checked the pads(damn near brand new). Where that tension spring(i guess that's what it is) on top of the pad the revit shows some wear so i replaced the pads. Problem solved for a couple of days. Now the squel is back. Has anybody else had that problem or knows what could cause.
****... autozone has one of those weird box things that you rachet your piston in... **** that... buy the piston turn in kit from JC Whitney for $15 + shipping and you've got the same thing that Snap-On sells but without the waranty... and after changing brakes on 4 cars... 2 trucks, and counting... they haven't shown any wear.
oh yeah... and the rear brakes do suck... that's because like 70% or more? braking power is put on the front wheels
I know of what you all are saying but i was just trying to say was damn the pistons were hard to turn back into the caliper, and why must those pins in the bracket Get seized up in there I mean I Greased them up really good and made sure they were sealed but when i went to redo them 3 of the 4 wernt moving.
Well i know that the front brakes are used alot more but man i only did the rears and it made a world of difference
What kind of grease are you using? You should be using a synthetic brake caliper grease. Regular or white lithium grease will actually harden after time causing the caliper to bind/lock up.
