Is it possible for any mustang to beat C6 ZO6 on a street?

Emay said:
Traction on the street is not that difficult. I see regular joes running around on their drag radial all the time. If you have ever driven on them you know they don't need a big heater to get a significant launch off any light. If your talking about dusty azz vegas streets thats one thing, but in the heat of the summer in any other location the streets are not quite so ****ty.

If we are talking about tossing money at a mustang and allowing that to happen in order to beat the Z06, then be realistic - it can be done given the infinite dollars you can spend.

Lastly if the mustang ain't hooking, neither is the vette - end of story.. It's gonna be a pedal fest out of the gate, and if you properly built your infinite budget motor, your gonna leave the vette. How could anyone believe otherwise?

exactly, if you take a mustang gt (with some options) for around 28k and a new 07 Z06 is 70k at the bare minimum. So you are talking about 42k in mods to the mustang gt. I don't see it not being possible to mod the hell of the mustang and wasting the Z06.
 
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yeah for the money you could beat one in a drag but if you get into the twistys you are going to be in trouble...the z06 is at its best on the road courses and it is absolutely remarkable
 
soontobefastfox said:
exactly, if you take a mustang gt (with some options) for around 28k and a new 07 Z06 is 70k at the bare minimum. So you are talking about 42k in mods to the mustang gt. I don't see it not being possible to mod the hell of the mustang and wasting the Z06.
Yeah, but if you have 28K for a new Mustang, and then another 40K to mod the hell out of it, why not just buy a ZO6 to begin with and have a 10 second car with a 100K warranty?

U.M.
 
Uncle Meat said:
Yeah, but if you have 28K for a new Mustang, and then another 40K to mod the hell out of it, why not just buy a ZO6 to begin with and have a 10 second car with a 100K warranty?

U.M.

Cause then you don't enjoy the true enthusiast piece of the whole ordeal. Nor do you get to brag that you actually made the car that way. Instead you would have to walk around with kakis, flip flops, and your beak real high in the air to show you got big money.

Besides, for well under 40K in mods, your doggin the z in the quarter. As mentioned the road course would be real ugly..
 
Uncle Meat said:
Yeah, but if you have 28K for a new Mustang, and then another 40K to mod the hell out of it, why not just buy a ZO6 to begin with and have a 10 second car with a 100K warranty?

U.M.

LOL...because it's a Chevy...quite possibly the best ever, but still a Chevy...
 
Mustang Militia said:
every single "street legal" Outlaw 10.5 Mustang will melt any Z06! Period. Next.
Are you sure? And you mean every single? Wow, that's the positive attitude man! 10.5 on the strip will barely make 11s on the street. :nono: ZO6 does high 11s on factory rubber..on the street pavement.
Guys, when will you finally realize that 50/50 F/R distribution means a lot on the stoplight than say 58/42 ??
Everybody is telling me that mustang can beat ZO6.. Do you have a recipe? How exactly you would do it? Or better yet, has anybody beaten ZO6?
 
greg97svt said:
Are you sure? And you mean every single? Wow, that's the positive attitude man! 10.5 on the strip will barely make 11s on the street. :nono: ZO6 does high 11s on factory rubber..on the street pavement.
Guys, when will you finally realize that 50/50 F/R distribution means a lot on the stoplight than say 58/42 ??
Everybody is telling me that mustang can beat ZO6.. Do you have a recipe? How exactly you would do it? Or better yet, has anybody beaten ZO6?

Maybe you should do a little more research on your weight distribution for at least the s197 stangs. 53% front /47%
 
SVTdriver said:
Maybe you should do a little more research on your weight distribution for at least the s197 stangs. 53% front /47%
Dude, that's for a stock GT. To get that baby to 10sec. zone most guys put a power adder, inter/after cooler, which adds extra weight to the front. Spare tire removal and almost empty tank don't help F/R ratio either.
 
greg97svt said:
Dude, that's for a stock GT. To get that baby to 10sec. zone most guys put a power adder, inter/after cooler, which adds extra weight to the front. Spare tire removal and almost empty tank don't help F/R ratio either.

And yet if you are going to put money into making more power. You aren't going to buy lighter parts? Like a CF hood, coilovers, 1 piece driveshaft? And aren't you the one talking about putting extra weight in the back? So therefore why would you take anything out of the back if you are truly looking for 50/50 weight? There are so many things out there to help you loose weight. That anyone trying to make a mustang beat a Z06 without using lightweight parts. Is a fool.
 
You can only do so much with weight removal. What I'm saying if you want to keep your car street legal and yet somewhat comfortable, it's going to be very very hard to keep 53/47 distribution and have 700-800hp (that's what would take to beat ZO6) at the same time. Look at GT500! (Yes, that's iron block 5.4) To make a lot of HP it's gonna add some weight in the front, no matter you like it or not. Now, don't forget, ZO6 got 50/50. To do the same on a mustang it would take some drastic alterations, like custom K-member swap, lightweight suspension components, hood, etc. I guess that's feasible, but in the end you'll put more $$ in that car than the price of ZO6.
 
Last up was the Livernois Mustang GT. With no time for shakedown testing, the freshly built Mustang was an unknown commodity. The aftermarket suspension and the lack of off-idle boost yield a solid launch, but once the centrifugal supercharger's boost hits, it opens the inlet tract like an industrial-strength bronchial spray. Clunky shifts hurt forward acceleration, but once rolling the car really galloped. Then came the oil: A 25-cent retaining clip broke, letting a cam sensor move north, which in turn broke off a valve cover cap. About four quarts of oil lubed the rear tires at 170 mph, forcing throttle lift well before the finish line. Although a 174.1-mph trap speed is nothing to be ashamed of, clearly the Mustang would've been faster with a full run
.

http://www.motortrend.com/roadtests/coupe/112_0606_performance_sports_coupe_comparison/index.html

The Mustang never finished the standing mile which the times were taken from. It broke a clip. So looking at it for $43K you can build a stock GT to compete and beat a Z06. Did it happen here no but running again IT WOULD!
 
greg97svt said:
You can only do so much with weight removal. What I'm saying if you want to keep your car street legal and yet somewhat comfortable, it's going to be very very hard to keep 53/47 distribution and have 700-800hp (that's what would take to beat ZO6) at the same time. Look at GT500! (Yes, that's iron block 5.4) To make a lot of HP it's gonna add some weight in the front, no matter you like it or not. Now, don't forget, ZO6 got 50/50. To do the same on a mustang it would take some drastic alterations, like custom K-member swap, lightweight suspension components, hood, etc. I guess that's feasible, but in the end you'll put more $$ in that car than the price of ZO6.


False!
 
rmays06 said:
.

http://www.motortrend.com/roadtests/coupe/112_0606_performance_sports_coupe_comparison/index.html

The Mustang never finished the standing mile which the times were taken from. It broke a clip. So looking at it for $43K you can build a stock GT to compete and beat a Z06. Did it happen here no but running again IT WOULD!
Common, be realistic! How many times you have a chance to race a full mile on a public street? You'd be happy to get 1/4mi distance. And that mustang didn't brake a clip till way after 1/4 mark. And since you have read the article you know the 1/4 mi results-ugly.:bang:
 
greg97svt said:
Common, be realistic! How many times you have a chance to race a full mile on a public street? You'd be happy to get 1/4mi distance. And that mustang didn't brake a clip till way after 1/4 mark. And since you have read the article you know the 1/4 mi results-ugly.:bang:

clearly the Mustang would've been faster with a full run
Despite the car's hurt engine, the Livernois crew insisted that testing progress. As expected, copious wheelspin, a defunct cam sensor, and an oily undercarriage don't make the best recipe for quick times, as evidenced by a 12.9-second elapsed time.

Realistic, smart people don't street race. If you have a 500+ HP car why do you need to street race? Whats the point? That is a good way to get killed.

Look there is no way to win this with you as evident with your posts. THE Z06 is the Best car ever so go ahead and buy one. Leave the Mustang that you claim to know so much about alone and drive your $70K car around then no one will beat you on the street.
 
rmays06 said:



Realistic, smart people don't street race. If you have a 500+ HP car why do you need to street race? Whats the point? That is a good way to get killed.

Look there is no way to win this with you as evident with your posts. THE Z06 is the Best car ever so go ahead and buy one. Leave the Mustang that you claim to know so much about alone and drive your $70K car around then no one will beat you on the street.
First of all, that's not my point if street racing is safe/ should I street race at all. Some street racing can be fairly safe, provided it's done in rural area, in daylight, with no other cars/pedestrians. And the whole race would be fairly quick between ZO6 and a modded mustang. Simply, ZO6 would jump-off the line quicker (due to good traction) and since then mustang driver would only see ZO6 tailights. If the race went further, then a mustang could have a chance to catch-up. But by then the speeds would be too high; and the race would be over (too unsafe, according to you).
And no, I don't have 70k to spend on ZO6. But that fact alone does not forbid me discussing about the vette.
For now, I'm keeping my 97 cobra with few bolt-ons. I'm happy with 281 rwhp for now. But later on, if I had $$ to modify it I doubt if I would do it. It's just not practical. It will never be as fast/reliable as ZO6 and I would never get my money back if I sold it eventually.
 
greg97svt said:
You can only do so much with weight removal. What I'm saying if you want to keep your car street legal and yet somewhat comfortable, it's going to be very very hard to keep 53/47 distribution and have 700-800hp (that's what would take to beat ZO6) at the same time. Look at GT500! (Yes, that's iron block 5.4) To make a lot of HP it's gonna add some weight in the front, no matter you like it or not. Now, don't forget, ZO6 got 50/50. To do the same on a mustang it would take some drastic alterations, like custom K-member swap, lightweight suspension components, hood, etc. I guess that's feasible, but in the end you'll put more $$ in that car than the price of ZO6.

You apparently do not get into modifying your car enough to check prices.
Non-adjustable A-arms with polyurethane bushings 2005+ Mustang $399.95
3.75" Carbon Fiber one-piece driveshaft $949.95
Tubular K-member with motor mounts - OE power rack $439.95
H&R Coil-over Kit $1099.95
Aluminum Flywheel for Mustang GT - '05 - '07 $424.95
Tubular Lower Control Arms w/poly bushings $129.95 pr.
From the figures I've seen online. That is about 150lbs+ weight reduction. And I haven't even started with lightweight body parts. And that can be had for about $3400. Nowhere near the $40K price difference and I am losing weight to overcome the difference. And if I get the car down to the corvette weight. I won't need 700+hp to keep up with it. And I get the added benefit of better handling as well.
 
SVTdriver said:
You apparently do not get into modifying your car enough to check prices.
Non-adjustable A-arms with polyurethane bushings 2005+ Mustang $399.95
3.75" Carbon Fiber one-piece driveshaft $949.95
Tubular K-member with motor mounts - OE power rack $439.95
H&R Coil-over Kit $1099.95
Aluminum Flywheel for Mustang GT - '05 - '07 $424.95
Tubular Lower Control Arms w/poly bushings $129.95 pr.
From the figures I've seen online. That is about 150lbs+ weight reduction. And I haven't even started with lightweight body parts. And that can be had for about $3400. Nowhere near the $40K price difference and I am losing weight to overcome the difference. And if I get the car down to the corvette weight. I won't need 700+hp to keep up with it. And I get the added benefit of better handling as well.
True, but unless you will spray 250 dose, you will need a power adder to get 500+ hp. And that will yield about 100lbs right on the nose.
Anyway, I see where you coming. I appreciate that somebody is trying to prove me being wrong. I would love to see a stang spanking ZO6 on the street. Anytime when a sleeper looking underdog beats the well known super-fast car is awesome!
 
greg97svt said:
True, but unless you will spray 250 dose, you will need a power adder to get 500+ hp. And that will yield about 100lbs right on the nose.
Anyway, I see where you coming. I appreciate that somebody is trying to prove me being wrong. I would love to see a stang spanking ZO6 on the street. Anytime when a sleeper looking underdog beats the well known super-fast car is awesome!

I guess that depends on which supercharger you use. I don't think most superchargers add 100lbs to the nose.
http://www.procharger.com/2005_mustang.shtml The HO Intercooled ProCharger system for ‘05-‘07 3V Mustang GT’s produces a 70-75% power gain on stock motors running pump gas, with 10 psi of intercooled boost. This means stock motors typically produce 460+ RWHP
And the Saleen S/C can be had with up to 475hp. And I know it does not add 100lbs