Is The Wap Really That Bad?

Discussion in '1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-' started by jmc01gt, Mar 28, 2014.

  1. So my 01 hasn't had even a nibble since I listed it for sale, and my itch for a project has me thinking about building a new motor. Basically I was looking to sell it because taking this car to the next level will be a long and expensive project and I wasn't sure if I wanted to stick with the same car. Oh well, there are worse situations than having to play with my car.

    So onto the discussion. I want to build an aluminum block to take some weight off the nose since the TT Eaton swap added a nice chunk of weight. I know the common story is that Teksid blocks are awesome, and WAP blocks are junk. Yes Teksid blocks are stronger, but are the WAP blocks really that bad? I have searched and all the information I have found is on forums where a guy has a friend who knew a guy who saw a WAP block fail at 200 RWHP. I have done google searches looking for pictures, and the only cracked WAP block out there is one where a guy over torqued some ARP head studs. There is also the excerpt from the Sean Hyland book where he says he prefers the Teksid for high HP builds and mentions HP numbers with no other validating information.

    So, does anybody have any first hand experience with WAP block failure?
     
  2. Good question. I have nothing to offer for an answer but I am curious to know if the WAP only has a bad reputation because the Teksid has such a good one.
     
  3. Whoever said they will fail at 200hp is mentally retarded.

    Yes the teksid is better than the wap. By how much? a very slim amount. Any of the modular blocks will hold over a 1000hp (4.6-5.4)

    The REAL question is, how much power do YOU want to make?
     
    Sloshstang00 likes this.
  4. I'm only pushing 350 at the crank on mine but I have had zero issues. (4oK miles on the motor).
     
  5. The 200 was just an exaggeration to illustrate the point.

    Ideally I'd be shooting for 600 fwhp. I figure forged rotating assembly, TFS heads, nice cams that redline at 7k, port the Eaton on my current setup and swap a smaller pulley. Add a set of long tubes and that should be well over 500hp if my current setup is in the mid 400's at the crank.
     
  6. Are the TF heads really necessary. Wonder if you could do the same with a good set of ported PI heads? TFs are just so expensive.
     
  7. Running the flow numbers into the magical desktop dyno they do make a difference. Plus if I'm already sinking all that money into a reciprocating assembly why cheap out on the heads? The 01 heads still have the short spark plug threads so I will need different heads anyway.
     
  8. When I was running the numbers, I found that a pair of stg3 pi heads with good valve and springs aren't far at all from TFS prices. A few hundred less give or take. For me, that's close enough to pay the TFS price.
     
  9. True story. From a quality stand point, TFS has got it hands down. Although I think later model PI heads with deeper spark plug threads can be found. TFS may be a bit easier to deal with though. Less need to have them worked over so extensively.

    Which vehicles came with the aluminum WAP block? I'm thinking early 2000s Explorer with the 4.6 but what else?
     
  10. I beleive my 02 gt has a aluminum block. What does wap stand for?
     
  11. Windsor Aluminum Plant
     
  12. Week Arsed Pansy?
     
  13. That's the it makes when the block splits in two and the crank hits the K-member. WAP!!!
     
  14. No, they're not. I've never understood the fad with them. Are they cool and able to make big power? Sure, absolutely. Do they make any more power than decently ported PIs across 90% of the powerband? Nope. Nick McKinney did some articles on them a while ago (not sure if they're still around or not), and pretty much said that unless you were making 600+ horsepower or turning well over 7000 RPM, they were a waste of good money and likely to lose power lower in the RPM range.

    On the original question, I doubt you'll break ANY 4.6 block at sub 4-digit power levels. And unless I'm mistaken, the fastest pass ever made with a mod motor was done on a modified WAP block. Just FYI.
     
  15. Modified block LOL
     
  16. I have yet to understand why people continuously ask if I am running the stock block at my power levels. Stock/Teksid/WAP, it makes no difference! It is going to take, as sneaky mentioned, 4-digit power numbers for the durability of the block to come into play. I am beginning to think that people are building Teksid block solely for the nostalgia of "having a super cool Tek block). The teksid weight advantage is MINIMAL at best. They aren't going to make a damn difference in how the car performs or handles.

    .......unless it was that billet block that weighed like 70lbs (I forget the manufacturer)
     
  17. I hate it when that happens. I'd better keep the boost down then. :doh:
     
  18. It's because there likely just regurgitating old Internet lore and probably don't know any better. They're under the impression that the 4.6 modular blocks are like the old 302 Windsor blocks.... splitting down the middle after 500 hp.
     
    Mattstang04 likes this.
  19. Gearbanger probably hit the nail on the head. The phobia from the good ole' cast small block Ford block and their ability to halve themselves is what drives the desire for these blocks. That and the fact that Teksid made the block for Fiat and Ferrari or whoever. Nobody ever says anything about WAP or the trusty iron modular blocks.

    Fear+Famous Manufacturer-lack of hype for any other blocks=Teksid is the cool kid in school.

    But they are good blocks.
     
  20. Thanks to the level of misinformation out there WAP blocks aren't expensive. I scored one our of an 03 Mach with a forged crank this past weekend for $400. So now will come the long process of building the engine and the supporting cast. I'm already 120 ft-lbs over the rating of my T-45 and still running 28 spline axles, so in addition to the forged shortblock and new heads I need at least a TKO 600 and an upgraded diff. I also paln on longtubes and changing the catback because I'm sick of the Flowmaster 40's after 11 years of fun.

    Wanting to quiet down the exhaust...that's how I know I'm getting old.