Is There An Easy Way To...........

[horseballz]

Hey All,
Is there a moderately easy way to add/upgrade my late model Explorer 5.0 in my 68 coupe to fuel injection? It is 1999-2000 Ford MotorSports crate motor that was originally for an Explorer. I bought it brand new in 2000 and it sat on a stand for 10 years until I installed it in 2010. It currently has:
Complete Explorer style short block with Hyperuetectic pistons
GT40"P" heads
B303 cam
1.7:1 ratio roller rockers, I also have a set of 1.6:1 on hand
Edelbrock Performer RPM intake
QuickFuel 580HR vacuum secondary carb
Tri-Y headers
T5
3.80:1 TracLoc rear

Full throttle operation is absolutely fantastic, but daily driver use/operation is much less than stellar, especially on hot (117+ degree) days in stop & go traffic with AC on. I've been led to believe that while these "P" heads flow great for full throttle carbureted use, they simply don't lend themselves well to carbed daily driving. Fuel mileage also really sucks! Does anyone know of a reasonably simple and easy way to utilize early nineties' Mustang fuel injection without spending big $$$ and having big headaches? I posted similar questions in the Classic forum, but I know that some of the guys here are have more expertise and experience in this field.
TIA,
gene

 

[Micheal Nadeau]

Get the upper and lower intakes, fuel rail, fuel injectors, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, and throttle body. You will need to get a stand alone fuel management unit. Someone else should chime in soon, as I am not 100% sure if it will require a mass air or not. Nor am I 100% on the TPS. But you should have no issues acquiring most everything, as most everyone here has there old stuff somewhere laying around.

 

[horseballz]

Get the upper and lower intakes, fuel rail, fuel injectors, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, and throttle body. You will need to get a stand alone fuel management unit. Someone else should chime in soon, as I am not 100% sure if it will require a mass air or not. Nor am I 100% on the TPS. But you should have no issues acquiring most everything, as most everyone here has there old stuff somewhere laying around.

I mostly understand what you describe, but am not quite sure what you mean by "stand alone fuel management unit?" Are you referring to the main ECM computer? Or is there an after market device that replaces/eliminates the OEM computer that does so much more than controlling the fuel injection and ignition? It sure would be nice to find a "Glossary" to translate all of these acronyms to plain English. I mean, I know ECM=Electronic Control Module, TPS=Throttle Position Sensor, TFI=Thin Film Ignition, etc, etc, but there are so many, it can get confusing for someone who does not deal with it on a nearly daily basis!
Thanks,
Gene

 

[Micheal Nadeau]

I may have used the wrong terminology here. Its an engine management unit designed to control just fuel and spark. Trying to use the factory PCM would require you to get an entire harness and all the corresponding sensors there in.

 

[horseballz]

I may have used the wrong terminology here. Its an engine management unit designed to control just fuel and spark. Trying to use the factory PCM would require you to get an entire harness and all the corresponding sensors there in.

I kinda figured/hoped that was the case. Would you happen to know where I would start searching for any of these modules and info? I may be fairly new to electronically controlled automotive systems, but I'm an audio electronics repair tech and a pretty quick learner! for example, I build custom designed tube driven guitar amplifiers for a side business and have been repairing professional, touring sound system equipment for many years! Why deal with a bunch of bells and whistles when all that's needed is one or 2 chimes?
Thanks Again,
gene

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

The simplest thing for you to do is to replace the carb w/one of a multitude of mfg's making an efi conversion for just that purpose. It will be throttle body, and will kinda look like a carb.

Witness Holley's Avenger series system. Literally plug and play, self tunes, and all you gotta do is replace the carb w/ the throttle body, wire in a few out side sensors, replace the fuel pump w/ the one supplied, and you're injected.

I had the older version of this on one of my 347's. It didn't self tune, and required a laptop to program. Once tuned, It started after one crank, and managed 415 HP N/A on the engine at the rear wheels w/ only a mild flat tappet cam, and some wusskin alum head.(I forget.)

The only thing easier for you to do in lieu of this is to fall off a log.

 

[jrichker]

First thing to do is decide if you want an aftermarket kit or to piece it together from used parts. If you do an aftermarket kit, the support you can get from most forums like Stangnet is minimal. If you get into trouble, you may find yourself with limited technical support; becoming your own guru is a painful and difficult process. Not all of us are gifted with madmike1157's talents and experience.

If you take the route of using OEM Ford parts, here is some help to get you acquainted with how the Ford factory EFI system on 86-93 Mustangs work.

Here's a book that will get you started with how the Ford electronic engine control or "computer" works.

Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by Charles Probst :ISBN 0-8376-0301-3.

It's about $25-$50 from Borders.com see http://www.amazon.com/ . Select books and then select search. Use the ISBN number (without dashes or spaces) to do a search. Try searching using M-1832-Z1 instead of the ISBN number if you don’t get any positive results. You may only be able to find a used one, since the book is as old as the cars it covers. Or you order it from your Ford dealer as SVO part no. M-1832-Z1.


Use the ISBN number and your local library can get you a loaner copy for free. Only thing is you are limited to keeping the book for two weeks. It is very good, and I found it to be very helpful.

Beg, borrow or buy the book, it will be one of the best references you will find.

Make your decision and if you decide to do the used Ford parts approach, repost and I will see if I can put together a list of all that you will need.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...uel-injection-question-s.880391/#post-8863586

Your budget. as stated in the original post, $150 for a complete used OEM system - that works - is completely unreasonable. That is less than a new Holley 1850c! (For you youngsters, That is a good, basic carb that will fit a 302.) Just new sensor or two you will need while working the bugs out will blow that budget out if the water. That is a major reason new cars cost too much.

The system like @madmike1157 shows is what I was posting about. You do not get any fewer bells and whistles than this and still do the job. You seem very persistent, probably enough to learn a more complicated system, but bang for buck, you have to be an electronic guru to get it done for less.

And for less than a new Holley carb? Forgetaboutit. Get a wide band o2 sensor and tune your carb or put out the cash and do the FI thing right.

As far as the heads and cam, there is no reason I know of why these heads should be bad on the street or with a carb. After all, the Explorers were made to lug a big body and maybe pull a small boat. I have run carbureted 302's with performance cams, and have had excellent results with Rhodes lifters. Almost like my SHO motor, they idle smoothly, pull at low RPM with good mileage, and still spin right up to high rpm. I have never had a problem with noise from them like some will say with a knee jerk.

It sounds like your car needs a wide band O2 sensor and some tuning. If it is running rich at idle/part throttle, it will run like you complain. It is my belief that if you can not tune a carb and are over 30ish, tuning a computer will not be easier and you might want help either way.

 

[horseballz]

Actually,
Since starting this thread, a friend who buys and sells 3-4 classic (64-73) Mustangs each month, has acquired a good running but wrecked 92 GT that he only wants the long block and T5 out of for a swap into a 69 coupe and told me I can have all the EFI, harness, ECM, etc. in return for yanking the engine & transmission for him. He has no interest in the EFI stuff! Well equipped shop, so 1 1/2 - 2 hours "BALLS TO THE WALLS" or 3 - 6 hours with a few (or more) leisurely beers and socializing. The company he works for is also a Ford Racing wholesale vendor and can get me a killer deal on the Ford racing harness M-120714-A50! He even alluded to giving me the harness for completely doing the swap for him. I've done this particular swap 5-6 times and it's a no brainer, especially when somebody else is buying the parts! The car is already a stick shift car and he wants to use the z-bar with an adapter and fulcrum swap for the clutch fork. Needless to say, he has a fair pile of parts, etc. to pull from! Oh, and the engine/trans is already out of the 69. "Balls To The Walls" time 12-16 hours, 20-30 hours leisurely time! FWIW, I like beer!
Gene

 

[jrichker]

Sounds like you have a good source for Ford OEM parts, which would make it the best way to go. The 92 harness would work if you want to get into the cost savings mode and don't want a ford racing m-12071-a50 multiport EFI wiring harness (see https://www.google.com/webhp?source...cing+m-12071-a50+multiport+efi+wiring+harness).

 

[7991LXnSHO]

Ok, so a lot of labor instead of cash, a special deal, and you have a chance of making your budget. Good luck! Do you have another daily driver while working out the bugs?

 

[lord_cobra]

Sounds like you have a plan. Want to sell your carb?

 

[horseballz]

Sounds like you have a plan. Want to sell your carb?

Quite likely, when I'm finished.

As far as another vehicle, yes, I have a 69 F250) for at least around town stuff. Part of the reason I started this thread is to help sort out the pros & cons of the many available harnesses that do not appear to be created equal. For example:
A) The Ford Racing harness does not appear to use a speed sensor on the transmission or even address how that affects the computer's operation.
B) The Ron Francis harness addresses the extra small harness for temp & oil pressure gauge senders, using the run wire that normally would go the coil on a carbed car as the coil power (or at least as the "on" power for the system) in the fuel injection system as well as utilizing the speed sensor.

It would be helpful for someone to speak up with any real world comparisons and/or issues.
Thanks,
Gene