Progress Thread Cobra Rack In...Still Have Steering Slop

Sorry. Ford actually recommends replacing the entire control arm, however you can get away with replacing the balljoint with a Moog or Steeda unit. What I have found over the years is the replacement units are larger in diameter than stock, and have the knurls on it and when you press fit them in, it stays in place by the tightness of fitting into the smaller hole of the stock balljoint. When you press them out and install the same replacement,may or may not be as tight.

I don't see the need to go coil overs which is required for tubular control arms. Would the frpp a arms be worth it or just stock replacement? Oh and I do have hotchkis LCA's already, maybe I should just stick with those. They seem to be in decent shape but I have no idea how old they are
 
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Ok, I think I have it sorted out. I am ditching the strange 10 ways for the tokico blues. I don't see a need a for the adjustment setting and from my research it seems the blues are better for street use. @mikestang63 know of any issue with running these with stock springs? Anyone out there running these with stock springs?
 
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I'm a big fan of the blues. IMO one of the best shocks for the money. You dont have adjustability but they give a nice ride and I've used them on a number of cars. The stock springs will work with the new shocks- obvoulsy make sure they are not sagging. No sense doing this twice as replacement springs are less than $200. I see them used for $100 on the Corral. Also I'd order a new set of poly spring isolators regardless.
 
Thankfully it was at low speed. I guess I will be digging in soon than I thought. The odometer reads 78981 and has been rolled. I have no idea if/when anything has been changed.

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Who needs a stinking sway bar anyhow?:shrug:

I hadn't seen that happen before. Even if you don't register a change in your handling, it'll still probably feel good to have the new endlinks in, huh?
 
Sorry no Christmas Tree @Davedacarpainter . MM played a nice trick on me. Their order tracking said my package had not even been shipped yet, left for dinner and came back to my package on the front steps. Good thing I have the next two days off.

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Jack that thing back up and hang the strut back on it. This way the spring does the work for you. Back the nut up on the ball joint where you can break it loose. Whack the spindle on the side and nine out of ten it'll just pop loose. Sometimes you need to whack the nut with a board on top. Brass or aluminum drift or hammer if that won't get it.
 
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Jack that thing back up and hang the strut back on it. This way the spring does the work for you. Back the nut up on the ball joint where you can break it loose. Whack the spindle on the side and nine out of ten it'll just pop loose. Sometimes you need to whack the nut with a board on top. Brass or aluminum drift or hammer if that won't get it.

Ball joint nut was frozen, so it was cut off. Strut shaft nut was frozen so shaft was cut to remove. I'll try some heat and the fork tool tomorrow as @FoxMustangLvr suggested. So when I do the other side, I should start with removing spindle before the spring and strut?
 
Ball joint nut was frozen, so it was cut off. Strut shaft nut was frozen so shaft was cut to remove. I'll try some heat and the fork tool tomorrow as @FoxMustangLvr suggested. So when I do the other side, I should start with removing spindle before the spring and strut?

Yes. Break the ball joint first, leaving the nut on to catch it. If the nut is "frozen," soak it with penetrating oil and double wrench it. Cutting it off will make it really difficult to remove.
 
You can loosen a stuck nut by impacting it with a large drift or punch. Hit it on each flat, crushing the corrosion in the threads. Use penetrating oil like pb blaster or kroil, NOT wd40.
 
When I took mine off, I tried like hell to get the spindle off to sell them. Couldn't do it. Ended up CL's the entire stock front brake setup with the control arm attached.

I ran new control arms, with new SN95 spindles anyway. so didn't care. But I tried as I did want to keep the original LCA's from my front suspension. What a PITA
 
A little progress today but that's all I have time for. Anyone know a good way to remove spindle from ball joint besides a BFH?
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I have something that beats any big hammer you can swing effectively. It is a Sioux air hammer that will drive 3/16" steel rivets with ease. This is not one of the $20 lightweight short stoke air hammers that pecks like a bird. It is all steel and cast iron, weighs about 3 pounds and hits about 2000 time per minute

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Put a flathead rivet driver in it and bang away on the side of the joint socket and work your way around it to break loose any corrosion. Put the nut on the joint stud if you want to protect the threads. Or if you don't care about the threads, put the flathead rivet driver on top of the stud. In ether case, run the air control on the gun to max flow and bang away. I haven't seen anything yet that it would not break loose.
 
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I have something that beats any big hammer you can swing effectively. It is a Sioux air hammer that will drive 3/16" steel rivets with ease. This is not one of the $20 lightweight short stoke air hammers that pecks like a bird. It is all steel and cast iron, weighs about 3 pounds and hits about 2000 time per minute

eumatic-air-hammers-pair-model-270-speedaire-includes-8-chisels-0279c1be29870c3385b4af18f82fd7f9.jpg


Put a flathead rivet driver in it and bang away on the side of the joint socket and work your way around it to break loose any corrosion. Put the nut on the joint stud if you want to protect the threads. Or if you don't care about the threads, put the flathead rivet driver on top of the stud. In ether case, run the air control on the gun to max flow and bang away. I haven't seen anything yet that it would not break loose.

Domination through superior firepower.:nice:
 
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