Build Thread Jamee's Build Up Thread

Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by Jamee, Mar 26, 2010.

  1. I tested for 12 volts at coil, there was. Haven't tested PIP sensor or TFI, didn't know you could
    I'm looking at the checklist right now, hopefully I can figure it out easily
    Ordered a new distributor, shouldn't have used a used one anyways.
  2. You are sure you have the correct/working ignition module?
  3. where is the ignition module? the black box with the heatsink under the intake tube? I have the one that came with the 5.0 computer harness
    looks like this:
  4. yup, thats the TFI. mounted by the CAI on the passenger side fender.
  5. Guess I'll look at that next :-/
  6. cool build!

    that motor looks absolutely slick

    man, seeing how fast you did all this is really making me feel bad for letting my EFI project go on so long lol
  7. fast? you're mistaken lol
    it's taken me far too long :(
    but I'm very picky about vehicles I drive so I'm glad I've put the time into it to do things right
  8. trust me, its fast relative to my build lol :p

    im living away from the car right now so its been more than a year since ive even touched her
  9. I just wanted to mention that the probability of that TFI module being bad is slim. I've been driving these SN95's since 2003 and have owned about 5 of them, and in all the ignition problems I've had the TFI module was never the culprit. A lot of prior Fox owners will point to the TFI module because Fox's will eat through them like candy. When I drove one, I'd always keep a spare in the glove box with the correct tools to change it out roadside. Since Ford got smart and mounted the TFI remotely, away from heat in our cars, they hardly ever go bad.

    You are on the right track with the dizzy. Even if a new dizzy doesn't solve your issues, you can rest assured that you won't get stranded by the old dizzy failing(if it hasn't already). And please tell me you didn't purchase a rebuilt dizzy. I have gotten a few in my time that actually used the OLD pickup sensor! The very part that fails!!!! You can request a brand new one from Richporter and it's the same price, doesn't even have a core charge!
  10. new distributor *didnt* fix the issue. Tested 12 volts at the coil again and it's not getting 12 volts, then it is getting 12 volts. I don't really know where to look. I have a couple connectors without anything connected, I'll upload pics of them later
  11. welcome to the world of mix and match Mustangs! get us those pics...
  12. The first ones are for all the emissions solenoids that mount in the passenger fender. Having them disconnected will not cause any major issues, especially with spark.

    The second one I'm not sure of. Can you take a little wider shot of it's location so we can see what's around it?
  13. That harness is behind the passenger side headlight, near the air filter and such
  14. I have the v6 CCRM still, could that have anything to do with the lack of spark? :-/ Fuel pump works okay
  15. The CCRM is different between the V6 and GT; Cobra has the GT CCRM. The CCRM controls power to the engine, the fuel pump and fan. So yeah, you'll need a GT CCRM.

    That second connector is for the A/C, there's usually a red insert in it. Again, won't cause you to lose spark.
  16. kk ty!
  17. Let us know how the no-spark issue goes, and we want a video of that thing running!
  18. why would my coil connector have positive and ground 12v when it's not plugged in but when it's plugged in I can't pull either voltage off the terminals?
  19. Hmm... with regards to the CCRM, when we converted my brothers 97 V6 to a V8 he used his V6 CCRM and it worked just fine.. The only thing that happened was when the computer told the CCRM to go to high speed on the cooling fan, the fan wouldn't run at all. So he did end up installing the correct CCRM eventually, but the car ran fine with the V6 unit.

    Now, did you buy a BRAND NEW never used distributor and not a reman? If you wanna test the dizzy, pull it out and rotate it while the key is in the "on" position. You should hear some clicks and the fuel pump prime. This will tell you if the PIP sensor in the dizzy is good. This has everything to do with the coil firing as well. If the PIP doesn't give the signal to fire, the coil won't do anything.