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Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by HotFox, May 6, 2009.
Port opening only.
Holy crap, my jaw dropped at the undercarriage! I'm so jealous! Sweet ride! Awesome job you're doing!
Just made 510rwhp 7000rpm, and 411ft lbs about 5500rpm on dyno! It has felt much stronger from last year but never figured I picked up 93hp! Guess I need a new driver at the track, new best is 11.42 in the heat of the summer at NMRA Milan, MI.
Different dyno and great air today, but still 510hp on NA 331! As comparison, also Dynoed 94 f150 5.0, auto 3.08 rear gear in drive made 168.8rwhp at about 4000rpm and 267ftlbs torque.
Deep Jewel Green FTW!...got mine painted that color and it looks wild in the sun light.
Holy f**k! That is awesome. Congrats. Are you running a super victor EFI?
That's just straight getting after it!
dyno sheet and video. Look at that torque curve!!!! Not giving much torque up top! I need to get this thing at the track ASAP!
92 Mustang 331cid 7500rpm pull - YouTube
Damn, that's cool.
Is your engine zero balanced? 7500 RPM and 500+ to the tire on a stock block would make my butt pucker!
28oz balanced... The whole short block is Cryro treated before I assembled it maybe that will by me time/hp. Although I see a lot of guys on HC5.0 making big power on stock blocks running for years. If it brakes I will build another with a big bore 8.2" deck Dart 347".
The first was actually 475hp with the E brake on LOL
Another of the actual 510 pull with the E brake off.
EandSmotorsports's Channel - YouTube
can we get an exact rundown of the old setup versus what you changed for this 510 hp run? Or just a rundown of the complete setup as it sits now.
92 Ford Thunderbird block
10.5:1 .030 over, light SRP flat tops at 0 deck, o-ring block with stock head gasket
Forged Eagle rotating assy with I beam rods Buick bearings, .927 Chevy wrist pins
FTI (Ed Curtis) custom solid roller .664/.633 lift .238/.248 duration 110LS, installed at 108*
Trend custom 3/8 push rods
Pre bankruptcy Crane Ultra Pro SR lifters
Probe shaft 1.6:1 roller rockers, with spacers to optimize geometry
AFR205's out of box with my good springs and titinum retainers with Super Victor Intake port matched/cleaned by me and milled.
Warmed over Quick Fuel 750 Think it is about 800cfm currently
4 hole fanalic 3/4 spacer
Bassani long tubes with 1 5/8 to 1 3/4 steped.
Bassani 3" "X" pipe
3" idividual Dyno Max muffers dumped before axle
Spec Alum fly wheel
Centerforce dual friction clutch with new full face disc.
Heads flow numbers as shown above flow 300 cfm.
Old set up was with worked over AFR185s with 2.05/1.65 and Professional Products small single plane. Heads flowed 275cfm they are back a page on this thread. Made 417hp 380ftlbs, dyno sheet back a page as well.
thats wierd, i have the same bassani stepeed headers as you, but mine look much different. Are you sure they are not the 1 3/4'' to 1 7/8'' stepped ones.
oh maybe they are...all I know they are a pain to put on and do not get removed with out pulling engine since I had a skid plate welded on the bottom. Also only found that the the stainless ARP with 3/8 12 pt head work the best to install, and even that is box wrench only. I always start the outer 2 then set the engine in car which allows headers to swing to add clearence, then install the other bolts.
Yah pretty sure they are 1 3/4- 1 7/8!
Gotcha, i just took the 1 5/8'' to 1 3/4'' headers off my car and my 1 7/8'' accufabs are being ceramic coated right now. Im hoping to pick up some powere there, the primary on the bassani header was pretty small
This is some build and that motor is stout, congrats man.
Sweet fox and awesome thread....thanks for sharing.
Are you running any kind of pan girdle on the motor or is the Thunderbird block any different from the stock mustang 5.0 block that would have been in that car. I see balancing makes a big difference for high rpm but just wondered what else was done to safely get to 7500 rpm.
....and what wrong with the color? That dark green is the best..
All late model 5.0 roller blocks are exactly the same, regardless of what car it came out of.
NikwoaC - thanks for the info and I loved your engine build thread.
ARP main studs, to run 7500+ rpm these are really light pistons, pins. I think a forged crank and rods are a must. Alum flywheel and good balancer, much more rpm and should go to 0 balance. I think the valve train is more critical, solid roller requires fair amount of spring pressure, 3/8 push rods a must, I like the shaft rockers as I feel you can get more accurate lift at each valve, there are also some geometry advantages, I prefer titanium retainers, lash caps to add surface area to valve tip. A meticulous machine shop that knows how to balance and bore and hone a block, even then I still chamfered the bottom of block to remove sharp edges that could create a crack.
yes I do not know the history of the car but that is the block that it came with, when I broke down the code on the block.
Yeah Nik get that baby tuned!