just double checking

[66newbie]

I want to double check and make sure I got this correct.

I was having trouble with it starting. I get the click click click. I jump it and it starts right up. I put the charger on it and it will take a charge but the next day it's back to the click click click again. Following the advice of Krash Kendall I checked the voltage and I get 12.3 at the battery with the engine off and 14.5 with the engine running. So that tells me that the alternator is doing it's job. So that would make me think it's the battery. Is there anything that I should look for that might cause the battery to go bad like this. It's only a year and half old. If there's any other test I can perform to make sure it's the battery let me know.

 

[68keyblr]

You can remove the battery from the car and haul it in to your local auto parts store. They can charge it and test it for you, usually for free.

 

[iskwezm]

you need to load test it and check current draw when it cranks

 

[krash kendall]

They tell the truth!

 

[rbohm]

yep, have the battery load tested. that will tell you what the actual condition of the battery is.

 

[jcode68]

You could also have an open circuit which causes the battery to drain while the car is not running. These can be tough to find. Have you done any electrical work on the car about the time this started (new stereo or fog lamps etc...)?

 

[66newbie]

You could also have an open circuit which causes the battery to drain while the car is not running. These can be tough to find. Have you done any electrical work on the car about the time this started (new stereo or fog lamps etc...)?

I will have it load tested tonight. I did have a problem with my horn. I have the grant steering wheel and the horn would stick. I don't know how to fix the horn on that steering wheel so that it doesn't make contact so easy. I even got shocked touching the steering wheel spoke one time while driving. Once I disconnected the two wires and taped them off with electrical tape that problem went away. I haven't gotten around to fixing that yet.

I also added a new stereo a while back that needs a constant 12v (for the clock) supply and I hooked that up to the fuse box. I used a multimeter to see which one had power with the ignition off and used that one. That could be pulling power but I never noticed it before. Of course it could be because I don't drive the car much in the winter and it's had a chance to wear on the battery.

 

[68keyblr]

I will have it load tested tonight. I did have a problem with my horn. I have the grant steering wheel and the horn would stick. I don't know how to fix the horn on that steering wheel so that it doesn't make contact so easy. I even got shocked touching the steering wheel spoke one time while driving. Once I disconnected the two wires and taped them off with electrical tape that problem went away. I haven't gotten around to fixing that yet.

I also added a new stereo a while back that needs a constant 12v (for the clock) supply and I hooked that up to the fuse box. I used a multimeter to see which one had power with the ignition off and used that one. That could be pulling power but I never noticed it before. Of course it could be because I don't drive the car much in the winter and it's had a chance to wear on the battery.

Sounds like you've got a short in your steering column which could be draining the battery. The radio clock won't draw enough current to drain the battery.

 

[66newbie]

I like the Grant wheel but the horn is killing me anyway just because it pops off all the time. I like the wheel size and grip size so I'd like to find a replace to match it. If it weren't horn I wouldn't replace it but I have read several threads about those horns being a pain in the ass.

 

[66newbie]

Is it possible for me to have a short in my steering wheel with BOTH wheels connected.