Just ordered my KB 2.2 blowzilla ....... for the standard intake I currently have my setup to be N/A with a 70mm throttle body and 75mm mass air with 24# injectors. I know the injectors are too small, so what size would be better for a daily driven, weekend raced 5.0, 36# or 42#? I'm set on the switch chip, but is the MASSIVE 90mm mass air worth it/too big?? Anyone know the power gains with the lower gt-40 intake over stock?
If you never plan on doing a head swap then going to a GT-40 lower and 90mm MAF isn't that critical. If you do plan on it then get the GT-40 lower and 42# injectors. Also, i recommend taking the money you plan to spend on the Switch Chip and go to a tuner with a dyno. Mail order chips are too hit and miss IMO.
What he said! Definately don't buy their chip. I paid $500 for their 80 mm Cobra/Lincoln Mass air and switch chip. The car didn't even come close to not detonating. I wasn't about to send it back for a reburn either, you couldn't even get a hold of them on the phone back then it was always busy! I don't know if it's still like that or not, but I bet it is, especially with all the modular guys calling up now that never were before. It basically cost me $500 to find out that mail order chips are just a guess and that doesn't cut it. How would you like to buy a new motor right now, just after you spent probably $5000 for everything with this blower? Or, you could just drive it around for a year without flooring it like I did till I got the money to do it right. I bought pro-m 80mm that was calibrated for my 30# injectors, a 75mm Accufab throttle body, a power pipe, and a PMS, then I took it to Anderson's dyno and said TUNE-IT! No excuses, I had all the parts on there that they like to work with. They even told me that my mass air meter wasn't calibrated to my injectors. That Kenne-bell takes care of that in the chip. I know you can have them where they don't match as long as you know the transfer function or something like that. If you want to go that route though, I'll sell you my meter and my switch chip for $150 and you could send the chip to them and have them burn it for your car. At least it would save you some money over what they are probably trying to get for the 90mm and switch chip. Also, I would go with the 42's. I'ts not like they will be too big or anything. I'm looking at wanting some pretty bad right now and wish I would have got them in the first place.
The only reason I want the switch chip would be for the 2 functions as my car is a DD and also see's 110 octane on the weekends. Is KB the only person who can burn thier chip? In other words could I buy yours and have someone else burn it? I do need a new mass air, could I use the one you bought with another aftermarket chip, or does it only work w/ the switch chip? If those answers are yes, I am interested in your hardware.
Not sure about the switch chip being able to be burned by anyone else. It is very possible though. Maybe someone else can jump in here and help us out a little. I'm almost positive that someone else can burn a chip to use with the meter. Like I said before, I think you just need to know the transfer function or something like that. I know that Lightning air meters are used on Mustangs this way.
I know the chips JMS uses have multiple program capability but I don't know the brand. Other tuners can do the same thing. Check around and you'll find one. Another approach is to get a single program chip with a good solid tune and then just raise the boost pressure when using race gas. A pulley swap is a two minute exercise on a KB blower. With 110 race gas you should be able to run 14-16 psi. Add water injection and you'll have a real safe tune at 16 psi with race gas in the tank.
Michael, JMS is an SCT dealer now, so they won't have switch chips until later this month, when all of us SCT dealers get them. I'd avoid the KB MAFs - I THINK they are just Lightning MAFs - you can get them cheaper from Ford. They are great MAFs electronically, but tend to peg at 400-450 RWHP. At first it won't be a problem for you, but as you add boost it might be. Pro-M is what I'd suggest. Get 42# injectors and a 255 pump. Be sure to hook up the fuel pressure regulator hose to the boost side of the blower, not vacuum - KB leaves that little tidbit out of their instructions and it could result in a blown engine. I run a single program chip on the street and on the track. I up timing at the track and run a mixture of 100 octane unleaded. No problems here.
Very good advice! They definately don't tell you to boost reference the fuel anywhere that I could see in my instructions. I guess because they show the diagram with an fmu in the setup. Would be nice if they could tell you what you'll have to do if you don't use the fmu. Off topic a little but, Hey don, or anybody, I've got a 190 in tank and a t-rex external and my injectors were static at 5500 rpm's with my 30#ers. Would you think that I need more injector or more pump or both? The car only made 288 hp and 350 tq at the wheels with the AOD in it. I'ts a five speed now and I haven't tuned it yet. If I went with the 255 in tank, would I even need the noisy t-rex still? Also, do you know what oil can be used in the kb blower besides the stuff they send you with it. Mine needs an oil change bad but I'm not gonna order oil from KB. what is interchangable? Thanks
I think you need more injector. I'd go to 42s. I think you could get rid of the T-Rex with a 255 or you could try a Walbro inline FP. Use 50W Redline synthetic in the blower.
