KB Dyno #s
- Thread starter el_kid_1
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DeadLurker
Daily Driven
el_kid_1 said:Thanks a lot DeadLurker for posting the graphs!
Is it me or does it seem like they started to go WOT at like 4,000rpms? and they shut it down early in my opinion...whether it be becasue of your lean a/f or not...I can't say but usually you can wind it down to 6,000rpms or so.
CTGrey02
Founding Member
Thats as lean as mine was when I had fuel issues. Also, like Kamran said, you shoulda had him pull it to at least 6100 RPM... but you got issues. Call them to see what could possibly be wrong.
DeadLurker
Daily Driven
Also I suggest saying out of boost till you fix your a/f and redyno it. I know it's going to be hard considering you probably just got it installed and want to feel the power but it's in your best interest considering your a/f is climbing still at 5,300rpms.
Your numbers would be around the same as the others if they would have let it go up to 6000 rpms or so.
It doesn't look like they know how to use the dyno unless there were some other issues to why they did it all that way.
But something is definitely wrong with the a/f.
I hope you installed the Boost-a-pump. You can go lean if it isn't installed or installed improperly.
It doesn't look like they know how to use the dyno unless there were some other issues to why they did it all that way.
But something is definitely wrong with the a/f.
I hope you installed the Boost-a-pump. You can go lean if it isn't installed or installed improperly.
Well, KB called back and we discussed my dyno numbers over the phone. James explained that the cause could be several things. He first suggested running the car in first gear to see at what RPM the rev limiter kicks in. I did it tonight and I was able to pull it to around 6100 RPMs. The dyno guy who made the dyno pull said that the rev limiter kicked at 5300 RPMs...quite strange! The next step in the troubleshooting list is to measure the BAP voltage. I went to PepBoys and got a multimeter and will measure the BAP voltage tomorrow. The voltage should read 17V if the BAP is working properly. Can some enlighten me on how is the BAP voltage measured?
DeadLurker
Daily Driven
el_kid_1 said:
Maybe he just didnt' know what he was doing and had the dyno set to shut down at 5,300rpms. Considering he didnt' go WOT till like 4,000rpms...and shut it down at 5,300rpms...I wouldnt' be surprised if he was in the wrong gear also.
Is the option of getting it dynoed elsewhere a possibility?
Well, it is 11:15PM and I just finished measuring the BAP voltage and I got 17V as it should be. I bypassed the pressure switch by connecting the two wires together and checking the OUTPUT (+) wire and GROUND wire with the VOM. I also measured the voltage at the pressure switch jump. So, the second item in my troubleshooting list has been successfully completed. This leads me to think that my problem could be related to a faulty pressure switch. But I won't know for sure till I dyno my car again with the jumper at the pressure switch. What do you guys think?
CTGrey02
Founding Member
First off, if they said that car had a rev limiter at 5300, that'd be the first indicator to get the fudge outta there. How did they mount the exhaust sniffer???? Your numbers would have been where they need to be for a blower like that had they gone to 6100. I believe the limiter is 50 RPM higher or so. Do you hear detonation at the upper RPM range? It'll sound like metal rattling around in your exhaust. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? I know they're not the most accurate, but still, do you notice a drop in fuel pressure in the upper RPM range?
Nope, I won't have my gauges installed until next week. Then I will know the fuel pressure. That's my third and last step on the troubleshooting list suggested by KB. James said that the fuel pressure should be around 50 psi. But thus far, I'm inclined to think that I have a faulty vacuum/pressure switch. There was no sign of detonation during the dyno run. I was running 93 octane with along with an octane booster...I'm a bit paranoidCTGrey02 said:
How can I test the pressure switch? Any ideas?
Dan_Soprano
Mod Dude
the pressure switch for the BAP?? You could use the mutimeter you have. Have a friend rev the engine in neutral while checking the resistance on the 2 leads of the pressure switch. the meter should read open (O.L) until the pressure drops, which would then make the contacts in the switch, then you should read 0 - 0.02 or so ohms. MAKE SURE the contacts from the meter leads are not touching your fingers, as this will give you a false resistance reading. Also, if you want to check your fuel pressure, you can shut your car completely off, hold the trip reset button in, then turn the key to the ON position. This will Bring up the Diagnostics display on your Odometer. TRUST ME, it works. The Gauges will all go dead, then full and all the lights on the dash will come on initially if you do it correctly. then let the reset button go. every time you push it after that it will show something different in the odometer screen. I think fuel pressure is either FP or FL. Anyways you'll know it when you see it. I'll do a seach for a link that explains this procedure better, and post it when I find it. Good luck with the trouble shooting, and PM me if you have any Questions on using the Multimeter.el_kid_1 said:Nope, I won't have my gauges installed until next week. Then I will know the fuel pressure. That's my third and last step on the troubleshooting list suggested by KB. James said that the fuel pressure should be around 50 psi. But thus far, I'm inclined to think that I have a faulty vacuum/pressure switch. There was no sign of detonation during the dyno run. I was running 93 octane with along with an octane booster...I'm a bit paranoid
~DAN~
Dan_Soprano
Mod Dude
HEC Instrument Cluster Diagnostics
Here you go, I was wrong, I thought I remembered seeing Fuel Pressure in there. But this will still help you out.
p.s. and for you other guys, it says on the top of the page that this is for 99-2000 models. It is also good through 2004 model years.
Here you go, I was wrong, I thought I remembered seeing Fuel Pressure in there. But this will still help you out.
p.s. and for you other guys, it says on the top of the page that this is for 99-2000 models. It is also good through 2004 model years.
Dan_Soprano
Mod Dude
Dan_Soprano, thanks for the advice. I continued with the troubleshooting this afternoon. I ran a wire from the pressure switch and another one from a good ground to the car interior. I had a friend with a multimeter sitting on the passenger seat and we went for I spin. I figured that if the switch is working properly, it should active the BAP after 3.5 psi, and hence the multimeter should read 17 V, which is the operating voltage of the BAP. We ran the test this afternoon and we were able to read 17.3 V at WOT. Therefore, I concluded that both BAP and pressure switch are working properly.Dan_Soprano said:
Dan_Soprano
Mod Dude
Red Dragon
New Member
- Jan 23, 2003
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Hello El Kid.
I wonder if we have the same problem? I too am running lean. Let me know if you find your problem and I will do the same. My car's fuel delivery is fine at 50 PSI.
Could you try something for me? While cruising at 42 MPH in 5th gear, pay attention to see if you get any hitching/surging/missing. The car will feel similar to that when you run over a small crack in the road. If you get this problem, shut the car off, pull the EGR vacuum hose off of the EGR vavle and plug the hose. Now test drive it again. See if the hitching feeling goes away. This is what mine is doing and I have replaced everything. Oh, I htink you have gears. If so ,then cruise at 35 mph.
KB will work with me to resolve the problem, but being that it was just before Christmas, I had no time to call them again. I will be calling soon, however.
My problem seems to temperature related as well. The colder it is outside, the worse the detonation gets. The warmer it is outside, the worse the hitching gets. I can't figure it out!
I have not been on a dyno, but I know it is lean.
Good luck. Keep us informed. Maybe if there are two of us hunting this thing down, the problem will get fixed sooner.
Oh, did you do a carburator cleaner test? This is where you look for vacuum leaks using a spray can of carburator cleaner. Spray vacuum hose junctions and around the intake mating areas to see if the rpms go up when it is sprayed.
Good luck.
I wonder if we have the same problem? I too am running lean. Let me know if you find your problem and I will do the same. My car's fuel delivery is fine at 50 PSI.
Could you try something for me? While cruising at 42 MPH in 5th gear, pay attention to see if you get any hitching/surging/missing. The car will feel similar to that when you run over a small crack in the road. If you get this problem, shut the car off, pull the EGR vacuum hose off of the EGR vavle and plug the hose. Now test drive it again. See if the hitching feeling goes away. This is what mine is doing and I have replaced everything. Oh, I htink you have gears. If so ,then cruise at 35 mph.
KB will work with me to resolve the problem, but being that it was just before Christmas, I had no time to call them again. I will be calling soon, however.
My problem seems to temperature related as well. The colder it is outside, the worse the detonation gets. The warmer it is outside, the worse the hitching gets. I can't figure it out!
I have not been on a dyno, but I know it is lean.Good luck. Keep us informed. Maybe if there are two of us hunting this thing down, the problem will get fixed sooner.
Oh, did you do a carburator cleaner test? This is where you look for vacuum leaks using a spray can of carburator cleaner. Spray vacuum hose junctions and around the intake mating areas to see if the rpms go up when it is sprayed.
Good luck.
Hey Red Dragon,
PM me with your e-mail address or phone number. I think we should talk.
My car is not detonating like yours. I donno if my problem is temperature related like your as the weather is sunny and in the low 80s.
How do you know that your car is running lean if you have not been to the dyno yet? I will do the EGR test tomorrow and will let you know ASAP, however, I have not noted any hitching yet.
PM me with your e-mail address or phone number. I think we should talk.
My car is not detonating like yours. I donno if my problem is temperature related like your as the weather is sunny and in the low 80s.
How do you know that your car is running lean if you have not been to the dyno yet? I will do the EGR test tomorrow and will let you know ASAP, however, I have not noted any hitching yet.
