KooK's dont fit right, my luck :(

[5.0 HOtrain]

Had to grind the K-member on the passenger side for the #2 cylinder pipe, pita but almost done that one. Have to put them all in, get the friggen collector on and then tighten them up and see if they clear. I got irritated last night and before going inside I figured i'd try the drivers side, #'s 7/8 cylinder pipes are to close to steering shaft and cant get that back on. I'm thinking of heating the tubes up and rolling them in a little where the shaft goes. I'm going to have to run a torque strap to keep them from twisting into the shaft though Just my luck, not going out in the garage tonight, going to take a break from them (5hrs into them already

Sorry had to vent, mike.

 

[slowjoe]

yeah long tubes are a pain, I had to make a dent in my bbk 1 3/4 lt, it was sad putting a dent in them but you gotta do what you gotta do.

 

[5.0 HOtrain]

Yeah I know, I hate to molest $650 uncoated headers :damnit:

At least once they are fit, they can be coated and put on for the last time

 

[jrichker]

So much for rumors...

The rumor was that Kooks long tubes fit without any prying, banging, or bending. Nice to hear the truth firsthand from someone who has done it.

 

[5.0 HOtrain]

I emailed kooks but havent heard back from them. The passenger one not fitting right could be a k-member issue (d&d tubular), but the steering shaft is a mess up or something on kooks end because it hits right where the shaft goes onto the column. I'm not really pissed about it, just taking more time. Aftermarket, one size fits nothing
I just got off the phone with flaming river, they make a u-joint that is 1 1/4 inch in diameter, the one on there now is a little over 1 1/2 depending where you check it. I'm going to call back tommorow and order one, that should help alot. We shall see, only time will tell, the headers are a sweet piece though.
mike.

 

[ninjacoupe]

The passenger one not fitting right could be a k-member issue (d&d tubular), but the steering shaft is a mess up or something on kooks end because it hits right where the shaft goes onto the column. mike.

D@DK-member
#3tube did not clear my starter. FMS the one they reccommended
#2 tube dented badly to clear K-member
Flaming river shaft shortened to clear on drivers side.

Long story But Being on Long Island And having bought them directly from KOOKS, They made good on the #3 Tube and About split the difference on the #2 tube(Fabbed in car). They said that The K-member was horrible and has less clearance than stock. I Agree from what I've read, BUT I told them What I had when we spec'ed the Headers out and was told no problem.

Not to mention that the plates needed to be grinded to clear a lip on the AFR Heads in order to sit flush on the heads,And I still have a leak on the drivers side.

I Bought the stainless so Atleast I wont ever have to buy another set again.

 

[5.0 HOtrain]

I too was worried about the starter, first time I fit them all in there I didnt have the starter in. But I put it in there and can still get all the tubes in w/out lifting motor or anything. What did the stainless set run ya??
mike.

 

[TIMMY2734]

Dont waste your time emailing kooks, call them up directly. Youll be better off this way. Stainless run about 840 a set. Add in the shipping, flanges and O2's(if necesary) and your up to ~950

 

[ninjacoupe]

Stainless ran me 850ish plus tax. I know I could have gotton them cheaper from one of the suppliers but sometimes I like to deal direct. I guess with my luck it was good that I did.
Just a note KooKs said if the engine was moved back the headers would have fit perfect.

 

[slowjoe]

dam all that money for like what 10-15 hp. dam

 

[5.0 HOtrain]

Stainless ran me 850ish plus tax. I know I could have gotton them cheaper from one of the suppliers but sometimes I like to deal direct. I guess with my luck it was good that I did.
Just a note KooKs said if the engine was moved back the headers would have fit perfect.

Wish I had known I coulda gotten them stainless. By the time they are coated I'll be into them for around 900 beans

 

[ninjacoupe]

Actually I picked up 7 at the wheels corrected. I believe its was 396rwhp uncorrected and like 13or something gained. Would have to go back to some of the older dyno's.,But peak numbers don't mean much. I Picked up across my entire upper rpm band.
I am not looking for a race car. I want street manners and the key to that is to do it all at lower rpm's.