leaks, no brakes, frozen Ebrak HELP!!!

[meltmanbob]

ok so i got new tires all around on the car and this is what they showed me:

differential leak at the driveshaft connection
leak at the end of the rear axle near the brakes
rear driver brakes worn completely down
rear driver brake (emergency cable side) frozen

how do i fix the E brake issue? i'm assuming this is why my brakes have worn down to nothing and why my emergency brake doesn't hold for crap.

also the guy told me there is an oil leak or something at the very end of the axle right where the tire, brake, etc is. he said it's the seal there that is bad, any idea what that seal is specifically and how much they cost and if it's relatively easy to replace myself? what about the differential seal leaking?

 

[evintho]

#1 - sounds like a pinion seal. That's something you'd probably want a rearend shop to handle. I'll venture $100-$150, maybe more, maybe less.

#2 - axle seal. Requires pulling the axle.

#3 - replace the brakes.

#4 - go to the junkyard and grab another E-brake cable and slap it on.

 

[kevinspann]

I agree with all of the above...

#1The pinion seal is something you'd want a shop to do, just so you get the right preload on the pinion.

#2Axles are easy to pull out...pop the diff cover, you will see the differential, rotate it around until you see the small (7/16 head, i believe) bolt that holds in the center pin, after that comes out, pull the pin out, and take out the two small gears that it held in place. Then push each axle in, there is a cclip on the end of the axle (that may fall off when you push the axle in) after the c-clip is off the axle will slide right out, the alxe seal is at the end of the axle housing. You will have to remove the drum brake backing plate to get to it though. I know it sounds like a lot, but it really isnt, there is surprisingly little to hold the axles in on these cars

#3 Replace the brakes, you can do this after you change the axle seal. I couldnt find you an exact price on the seals, but i found a kit with the seal, bearings, and other miscellaneous stuff to install it for about 75 bucks

#4 Agreed, im pretty sure all fox cars had the same drum brakes, so a Mustang, tbird or cougar should be able to give you what you need


Or you could just do a five lug/disc brake conversion....

 

[meltmanbob]

awesome thanks guys! i have another post on here about my car and no one replied

as for the rear end with that diff leaking i was told that it would prolly be more cost effective to swap in one that doesn't leak and hey if i'm gonna do that i might as well do some upgrades like the 8.8 rear with discs. i'll look into that since i'll have a little time before i even have some money for parts let alone paying a shop.

but any thoughts or guidance to where to start looking at info on swaping in a different rear all together and get discs back there and a maybe the 8.8 and being able to bypass fixing those leaks would be great!

would you guys mind looking at my other post?
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=692110

basically there are some things that need work with this car and i'm wondering if it is a realistic goal to get this car back in good running and cosmetic condition without making this a complete rebuild. the car has a lot of sentimental value to me.

thanks again!!

 

[evintho]

This is the info I used when I did mine. Check the bottom half of the page....................
http://www.svo73mm.cjb.net/

There's also a couple of pics and info at the bottom of my cardomain page.................
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/530871/3

 

[kevinspann]

If you get a whole 8.8 from a 94-98 GT, it should just bolt in, the only things youll have to worry about are the Ebake cables, and the brake lines...the ebrake handle will also need to be modified to get rid of its self adjuster mechanism for the rear drums