Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by Pops Fun, Oct 13, 2013.
Ok, One possibility.
That is about where I was last year til I got my Glenns dual pump system.
Thanks for the input!!
yes, but what about the engine in your car?
I had that Steeda 19 in my old motor and liked it but it doesn't make alot of noise. I had Ed grind me one for this motor. Mines 110 LSA and I still run the stock EEC, minus I have a FRPP RPM extender attached to pull the shift retard out. The cam FTI did has a nice cammy idle, Not like a crazy cammed LS7 but you can tell its cammed. Mine only give me fits this time of year...it gets cold and you have to give it plenty of idle time to get some heat into it... odd as dead Summer it loves that nasty heat & humidity and runs the balls. Been running mine since day 1 with the stock EEC and it's plenty streetable...not that thats optimun but it works.
I'd send FTI your specs and see what he throws back. At least you have his background helping you make a good choice.
The #19 cam was ground specifically to be agreeable with the new EEC on the SN Mustang when it came out in 94'. Getting a computer tune was not a popular mod at all back then, and the #18 cam did not agree with the factory SN EEC. The #19 is tame by design; keeping the manifold pressure up at idle.
Still trying to decide what to do. I realize the 19 is on the tame side. Have you ever heard of Strab technology. A guy with a puller truck suggested him... anyway
TKO 600 .. only good to 600 torque and I am there.
Driveability... Performance idle etc.
Driveability.. It's fun to stab the accelerator .. can you have too much hp ?
Just things going through my mind
I have never heard of them. I think you could pick up a little with a more agtressive cam. However, I don't think a cam that is optimum for power is going to sound lopey. I havr just run through the gambit of transmission information on my own car; having dropped $1200 in parts on my old TR3550. If you have any transmission questions, I feel confident at this point that I can at least steer you in the right direction. If you want to stick with a manual, the the TKO600 is probably your best option at this point. However, it is going to have failures over time. I've broken my Tremec 3 times now with similiar torque numbers to yours.
My TKO 600 has always been notchie and hard to shift, and getting noisey. I am thinking I will have the tranny worked on and go from there... looking at http://www.modularmotorsportsracing.com/prod_trans_drive.htm
Upgrade TKO 600 to MMR Pro Trans 900 spec $549 + return shipping. A guy on line said it shifted great on the street, haven't called or done anything yet, still looking at options..
Any help would be appreciated.
10 years ago I started talking to Ed about a cam, glad now I didn't pull the trigger , blower and lots of changes to the car since then, Definately keep him in mind.....
Before you commit to that I would at least talk to the Hanlon's at Hanlon motorsport. I don't think deburring the blockers is going to make it shift any faster. At least not for long. I just did the carbon lined blocker ring upgrade from Hanlon on mine, and it made a world of difference. It shifts smoother and faster than any T5 I ever had. B
Damn phone. Continuing. Bob Hanlon is arguably the best manual transmission builder in the country. He has done a ton of 9 second 3550 cars.
Now that I'm on my home computer I read it a little more thoroughly. I'm sure that by deburring the gears, he means deburring the sliders and engagement sections. I really don't think that's going to last long term. Usually one replaces the sliders. They are expensive. It's $175 for the 1/2 slider and $125 for the 3/4 slider. The noise comes from the slack in the bearings. There are essentially 4 important bearings in the transmission: the input bearing, the output bearing, and two bearings on the countershaft. When these wear out, it makes the transmission noisy. It becomes impossible to shim the shafts back into spec with bad bearings. There is also a floating style bearing on the countershaft between the main case and the tail housing. This one rarely goes bad, and is very expensive.