low 11's does not seem that hard..

admstng

New Member
Dec 12, 2003
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I'm new to this but it seems that all i need to get into the 11's is a good H/I/C, 373's, street slicks, and a power adder. I'm guessing that this combination will cost littel over 4K.
 
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Possibly, but it's the little things that go along with your HCI and blower that add up too. 255 lph fuel pump, regulator, FMU, ignition, tach, shocks, uca, lca, clutch, 31 splines, Eaton posi, sub frames, 3 or 4 core radiator, cold air intake, gaskets, exhaust, machine work, mass air meter, power pipe, etc ...

That why you see such long signature lines on the really fast cars.
 
If it was easy, eveyone would be doing it. Traction/driving play a big role in getting there - there are plenty of 11 sec HP cars running 12s and 13s because they don't have the traction/suspension/driving skill to get there. Lastly, I think your cost estimate is WAY low. A good rule of thumb is to double the price of the big components for all the miscellaneous stuff you'll also require once you get into it.
 
its very easy for the power adder (except nitrous) to cost that much with just some of the things you need to get it going.

my car is making mid to low 12 second power and its trapping that, but i'm in the mid to high 13's because of traction and gearing.

i never thought it would be as expensive as it is, but i already have more than twice the number you mentioned into my motor alone with all the labor and machine work.
 
Little over 4k? Lets see...

New S-trim $2300
Heads, including new push rods, studs and roller rockers $1400
Intake $450
Cam $250
Gears with new bearings and install kit $275
Drag radials $325
Injectors $200
MAF meter $175
Throttle Body $250
Fuel pump $125
Axles that wont snap $300
Driveshaft loop because you're running 11's $100
Cage because you're running 11's $275

So we're looking at over 6 grand here WITHOUT labor. By the time you get it all together you will need a few hours of dyno time to make sure the thing isnt going to lean out and explode. Add suspension and subframe connectors to that price. So, now you have a car that will run 11's until the transmission goes out, now you're spending another $1300. After that your stock short block goes south and costs you another 2 grand.

So... having a RELIABLE car that will make more than one 11 second pass before breaking itself, over $10,000.
 
I'll throw in my old combo.
Car-$3100 91 LX 5.0 5spd 140K miles
Big Shot plate nitrous kit set at 150 hp-$620
Wild Rides roll bar, SF connectors, battle boxes, upper and lower control arms-$1000 (I think) Installed myself.
Moser 33 spline axles, spool and C-clip kit-$600
Good Ram clutch, PP and billet flywheel-$800
Welds and ET streets-$1100
C&L 76mm MA meter-$200?
MSD Digital 6-$230
255 pump-$110
Flowmaster Catback-$250?
I think that's it. Comes to $8010 including car and I ran a 12.09@112
Maybe I should have added headers. :D
Oh yeah, 3.73's were in the rear already and I still managed 23mpg.
 
Fox Saleen 163 said:
Stangfireman, how long do you think that car would have lasted with the 150 shot, slicks, and a stock high mileage engine? I'm surprised you didnt explode the Trans.

Actually I did break one trans racing a blower car. I think I ran roughly 20-30 bottles through it and only problem I ever had was the tranny and one burnt plug electrode. Got a little greedy on the timing.
Tore the motor down and the cylinders looked factory fresh. Excellent crosshatch pattern still there. No carbon on the pistons or the heads. Guess the nitrous cleaned that off. :)
With the forged pistons, those motors will take a beating. Just don't get greedy with the timing.
 
Fox Saleen 163 said:
Sounds like it was countdown to extinction to me. I wouldn't do it on my only car is what I'm saying. On a race car, sure spray the crap out of it.

Well, it wasn't my daily driver, but I did drive it to every track and on many road trips. And the closest track is roughly an hour away. My only regret was that I didn't step up to the 200+ shot and see what it would have done. I think easy mid 11's possibly.
Provided you have the timing and fuel correct, shouldn't be a problem. Just ask around and see how many 200k+ mile Mustangs are still running strong. Ford did a good job on the motors with the forged pistons.