Lower Intake gasket install question

[Nicoleb3x3]

I'm installing a lower intake today for the first time. I'm a little lost as to what I'm supposed to be using for gasket sealer on the bottom side of the gasket where the gasket mates to the heads.

Felpro's instructions are vague "use quick drying adhesive"
I've also seen it mentioned that you just use silicone sealer around the coolant ports only....

Can someone step in here and tell me what you guys use? Keep in mind it also recommends that you set up the gasket bolt down the intake with a few bolts, then remove it to "trim" the ports as needed before final installation. Sounds like felpro wants to use something quick drying because of this process.

I'm NOT asking about the top of the gasket which installs dry (felpro has the blue bead stuff already built into that side of the gasket) And i'm NOT asking about the front/back where it's very well documented that you just use black RTV.

 

[skunk21]

Here is one of many useful posts in our vast library of technical information

http://forums.stangnet.com/727837-intake-manifold-install.html

 

[Nicoleb3x3]

Thanks for the post, I actually just finished the install! lol

I used black RTV, hopefully it doesn't matter blue vs black; it shouldn't they're both resistant to antifreeze. I've also read using RTV around the coolant ports is an "insurance" measure.

my blog about my install for anyone interested:
gotstang.com - 4nomore Overhaul: Update #20 -rockers, pushrods & lower intake by Nicoleb3x3

 

[skunk21]

not so much insurance but a really good idea. just for future reference or if someone seeks the same advice or you get a leak.

black rtv around the coolant ports, very thin coat (smear it with fingers) to seal the ports not so thick or the gasket won't seal properally. don't use right stuff it's to thick and won't sqaush down enough.

permatex right stuff for the end seals. 1st put 4 dabs at the spots where the block/heads meet than set the gasket. run a 1/4" bead about 1/4" up the gasket across the block and then up the gasket on the other side repeat for rear/front of block.

you can use T/B studs or cut the heads of bolts and screw them into the heads to use as guides for installing intake.

when tightening down the intake go back over the torque pattern a couple of times until all the bolts click at the right setting. the first bolts will be loose again and so on.

most common issues when doing an intake gasket, leaks around coolant ports, and at the ends. mostly from not enough rtv, or disturbing the rtv when lowering the intake. hope everything works out .

 

[Nicoleb3x3]

anyone got info on torque specs?

AFR's website says "don't use torque wrench, snug up with a wrench"
Edlbrock is 15-18 lbs I assume with aluminum intake/heads
another "opinion" I read is 10 ft lbs
factory specs are like 22-24 lbs

I've went with 15 lbs...anyone got opinions about this? I'm not comfortable with "hand tight with a wrench" because it cannot be measured.

15 lbs is not allot of clamping force, so that's why I went with it.

 

[Boss91GT-SC]

23-25 lbs retorque after a heat cycle.

 

[skunk21]

you didn't state what heads so I had to hunt on your site to find out.

you have aluminum heads so throw out the stock specs 22-24 is to high for aluminum heads. 15 is on the low side, I would say most people from what I have read run 18 few run 20 which is on the high side. 18 would have been good, 15 might be okay again being on the low side . run through the tightening atleast 3 times to get an even torque. you should okay, just keep an eye on it.

 

[Nicoleb3x3]

thanks

yeah, since I quoted AFR's installtion instructions I would assume anyone reading would assume I have AFR heads. I don't think they make anything but aluminum