Lowering Engine with TCP Motor Mounts -- How to Post Photo?

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You can lower the motor with the early '65 three piece mounts. The early '65 mounts hold the motor lower in the car than the '66 style mounts anyway, if you drill a hole lower on the C shaped piece of the mount like I did, it will lower the motor 3/4". I had to do it to fit the Tubular Automotive headers to the Cleveland in the car years ago. We use www.fordpowertrain.com headers now and the motor sits in the stock location. I noticed no gain in handling from the motor sitting 3/4" lower. The small bolt is to keep the mount from coming apart. We also use a torque strap. Remember if you lower the motor in a 4-speed car the clutch linkage with have to be bent to accomodate the lowering of the motor. The throttle linkage may be at a different angle too. I don't think it would be worth it on a street car or a track car that wasn't driven for points for money.

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John
 
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he used tcp mounts and flipped the bracket over I believe. He needed to lower the motor to put a TFS 351 intake on his motor. Since its EFI, the intake sits like 7" tall. When I had a Trickflow intake on my 393, the hood would barely not close. If the motor was about 1" lower, it would fit. The torque shouldnt pull the motor enough to make it hit. THe TCP Mounts are the key.
 
I'm not sure how you would flip this over and get away with it. It looks like if you flipped the piece on the motor over it would lower the motor more than 1".
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With our car, if I lowered the motor more than 3/4" from the way it sat on the early style mounts, the center link would hit the oil pan at full lock. I have a worn oil pan and center link to prove it. You can lower the motor only so much with stock steering. None of our cars have a rack, so it may work fine with one of those with some clutch and throttle linkage work.

John
 
Opentracker said:
None of our cars have a rack, so it may work fine with one of those with some clutch and throttle linkage work.
It should work but getting a full inch with the TCP rack is going to be REALLY tight. Here's a picture of my 351W in a 67, stock mounts, Hedman long-tubes. There's room in there, a 0.75 drop would work fine.

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The original designer of the tcp mounts believe it or not is John from JMC motorsports. He was tight with Terry back then and he was just getting a royalty.

They do lower the engine a bit although I'm not sure how much. It can make the headers a real issue fitting between the towers. However it does virtually eliminate the need to do the complete tunnel mod with new sheet metal. But you still have to cut out the crossmember support and weld in some flat stock about 3/4 of the way up the tunnel... A little trim job on the front of the shifter hole as well...

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I thought about this a month or so ago. I think I'd just get the chassis mounts remade with the bit with the hole for the bolt that joins the engine and chassis mounts a bit lower.

Make sure it is vertical to, you don't want to just move the tab down the side of the chassis plates, if they aren't vertical, you may have to move it into or out of the chassis plates.
 
I´ve got -65 set in my -66 with 351, and the engine dropped something around 1" with them. i had to modify clutch linkage and the point it attaches to body. I lenghtening the upper part of the link about on inch So that it still evades steering column. It wasn´t really so hard... Soon I´ll have to modify my transmission crossmember to lower the transmission too, cause I don´t think my yoke is getting enough oil, cause it´s a bit low on front. Luckily the winter is coming, it would be difficult to put it back to garage with out...